A couple few pics from last night's tinkering

DKMD

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That's a cool, rustic piece! With the weathered surfaces and saw marks, I would have been tempted to keep the finish really matte/natural. Thanks for sharing!
 

Mike Bijon

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I like that less-shiny look @Dale and Anita.

If you ever feel like experimenting, my fav finishes for rustic, skip-sanded pieces are matte ones. #2 fav is a light coat of dewaxed shellac. My #1 favorite is a rubdown with a cooked-up blend of 50/50 mineral oil & beeswax. Both finishes seal the wood, but keep it pretty matte. The beeswax one is a bit of a pain in the winter though, lots of rubbing unless you have heat in the shop.

...also the box hardware stores sell "butcher block treatments". Those are usually mineral oil & beeswax plus some other "magic stuff". Those blends are a little expensive, but give the same effect.
 

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I like that less-shiny look @Dale and Anita.

If you ever feel like experimenting, my fav finishes for rustic, skip-sanded pieces are matte ones. #2 fav is a light coat of dewaxed shellac. My #1 favorite is a rubdown with a cooked-up blend of 50/50 mineral oil & beeswax. Both finishes seal the wood, but keep it pretty matte. The beeswax one is a bit of a pain in the winter though, lots of rubbing unless you have heat in the shop.

...also the box hardware stores sell "butcher block treatments". Those are usually mineral oil & beeswax plus some other "magic stuff". Those blends are a little expensive, but give the same effect.

Hi Mike. Thanks for the insights. I absolutely want to play with a ton of different finishing styles. Yours will be first on my next list. Have a great day and thanks for your insights. That is what really pleases us to be part of this group!!!
 

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I like that less-shiny look @Dale and Anita.

If you ever feel like experimenting, my fav finishes for rustic, skip-sanded pieces are matte ones. #2 fav is a light coat of dewaxed shellac. My #1 favorite is a rubdown with a cooked-up blend of 50/50 mineral oil & beeswax. Both finishes seal the wood, but keep it pretty matte. The beeswax one is a bit of a pain in the winter though, lots of rubbing unless you have heat in the shop.

...also the box hardware stores sell "butcher block treatments". Those are usually mineral oil & beeswax plus some other "magic stuff". Those blends are a little expensive, but give the same effect.


Get out the wife's blow-dryer. Better yet invest in a commercial heat gun - higher temps, gets there quicker. Don't really need the extra heat, but if it's really cold in the shop, it can't hurt. Beeswax melts at 125 degrees, really doesn't take much heat to make it work very easy.
 

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Get out the wife's blow-dryer. Better yet invest in a commercial heat gun - higher temps, gets there quicker. Don't really need the extra heat, but if it's really cold in the shop, it can't hurt. Beeswax melts at 125 degrees, really doesn't take much heat to make it work very easy.
Good thinking. Have the heat gun. Will give it a try.

So that works best in enclosed spaces with highly volatile oil based stains and solvents open and drying right?

LOL.

Da Boom
 

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If the fumes are concentrated enough to blow you up with the heat gun, you probably need to take the roof off and get some fresh air!
 

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Get out the wife's blow-dryer. Better yet invest in a commercial heat gun - higher temps, gets there quicker. Don't really need the extra heat, but if it's really cold in the shop, it can't hurt. Beeswax melts at 125 degrees, really doesn't take much heat to make it work very easy.

Mineral oil makes it softer too. ButI've been bringing pieces inside at night and then into the shop with me in the evening. So while I have a heatgun and can get it to work OK, my wife is probably still about as happy as when I used her hairdryer.

BTW wouldn't use my heatgun in the same room as varnish or oil poly.
 
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