Best Blade for Resawing Stabilized Woods and Burls

[aag562]

So after going through a handful of blades from Grizzly that they gave me when I bought the band saw its time for me to pull money out of my pocket. I resaw and or cut fresh cured epoxy, dry burl, burl that's been stabilized, or other hardwood that has also been stabilized. I need a blade that will last because im not a fan of changing a 105 inch blade. I've done some research on the internet and they seem to all point in the direction of Timber wolf TAS Sis 1/2" 3pc or Highland 1/2 resaw blade. I know these are premium blades Highland with shipping is close to $50 my question is are they worth it? Do you get twice the life out of them and do you get that much better of a cut? I appreciate your comments!

 

[Eric Rorabaugh]

I would go with carbide but you're gonna be in the $100+ range

 

[aag562]

I would go with carbide but you're gonna be in the $100+ range

Well after cutting the pieces I posted last night a brand new 3/4" grizzly blade is trash. Honestly is trash can't even go through fresh cured epoxy. After the third cut it was smoking . So if I can get life out of a carbide $100 dollars is the same as 3 blades and 20 cuts. The time spent on adjustments is hours.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Grizzly blades are garbage anyway. Imo.

 

[Mike1950]

do not use wood slicer on green wood.
Eric gave you good advise. his price is a little low. I buy carbon steel blades from Supercut. I get a lot more cuts than 1 or 2. 144" is a little over $20. 2 of my saws have supercut- one has carbide. Why- I cut wet wood and a lot of burl. It can have anything in it. rocks-nails-wire. run into hard objects- carbide or any other wood blade and blade is done.
I never even used grizzly blade on saw- they live up to their Reputation of being crap.

 

[Steve in VA]

I can't comment on using it for stabilized wood or burls, but I will say I've been extremely impressed with the Timber Wolf blade I got. I've cut a lot of large, dripping wet logs for bowl blanks and have been wondering for a few months when I'll need to sharpen it or get a new one. It just keeps going without any signs of slowing down, so it will definitely be my go to for a replacement when the time comes. I have the 1/2" x 3 AS blade. If I remember correctly, it was only about $40 on Amazon so the cost of going to a carbide for what I use it for was never really a consideration.

Again, I can't personally comment on it as I've never had one but in doing my own research I found a lot of comments about the Highland blades breaking early in their use. That led me to go with Timber Wolf and I've been extremely happy since.

 

[Mike1950]

I can't comment on using it for stabilized wood or burls, but I will say I've been extremely impressed with the Timber Wolf blade I got. I've cut a lot of large, dripping wet logs for bowl blanks and have been wondering for a few months when I'll need to sharpen it or get a new one. It just keeps going without any signs of slowing down, so it will definitely be my go to for a replacement when the time comes. I have the 1/2" x 3 AS blade. If I remember correctly, it was only about $40 on Amazon so the cost of going to a carbide for what I use it for was never really a consideration.

Again, I can't personally comment on it as I've never had one but in doing my own research I found a lot of comments about the Highland blades breaking early in their use. That led me to go with Timber Wolf and I've been extremely happy since.

carbide blade will probably outlast highland 5-10 to 1 do the math. I cut a LOT of wood. Carbide is dedicated to 21" saw for cutting exotics- hard like coco and kingwood. 2 years now and it still cuts like butter. They cannot be compared..

 

[Steve in VA]

carbide blade will probably outlast highland 5-10 to 1 do the math. I cut a LOT of wood. Carbide is dedicated to 21" saw for cutting exotics- hard like coco and kingwood. 2 years now and it still cuts like butter. They cannot be compared..

Thanks Mike!

Is this the site for Supercut? https://supercutbandsaw.com/

What blade material do you use; Premium Gold Carbide? Might have to change it up and give them a try next time.

 

[Mike1950]

Thanks Mike!

Is this the site for Supercut? https://supercutbandsaw.com/

What blade material do you use; Premium Gold Carbide? Might have to change it up and give them a try next time.

Yep that is them. I cut a lot of wet wood. use 3 TPI 1/2" .025 carbon steel on 143" saw and 3TPI 1" .032 carbon steel on 167. I have used the gold but with carbide for resaw it is a waste for me. I buy 12 blades at a time and get number 13 for free. also they are 25 miles from me. very helpful and knowledgeable.

 

[Karl_TN]

Carbide blades are too expensive If there is any risk of hitting metal or bits of rock. Here’s an AAW post where I explain how I silver solder my own blades for $6 to $7 each:

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/brazing-bandsaw-blades-cut-from-coils.17511/#post-178403


For those interested, here’s a Lennox coil on eBay that should be great for cutting green wood that is only 70 cents per foot (plus sales tax):

Lenox 250 Foot Coil 1/2" x 3 Tooth .025" Flex Back Carbon Bandsaw Blade Stock
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384158556820

 

[Mike1950]

Carbide blades are too expensive If there is any risk of hitting metal or bits of rock. Here’s an AAW post where I explain how I silver solder my own blades for $6 to $7 each:

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/brazing-bandsaw-blades-cut-from-coils.17511/#post-178403


For those interested, here’s a Lennox coil on eBay that should be great for cutting green wood that is only 70 cents per foot (plus sales tax):

Lenox 250 Foot Coil 1/2" x 3 Tooth .025" Flex Back Carbon Bandsaw Blade Stock
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384158556820

No shipping or anything else. That is $8.40 for one 144. Plus sh. Let us say $10 a blade. I pay $10 more for a good blade I just have to put on saw. For someone like me that would rather cut than work on saw that is small savings considering I can make much more cutting. Different strokes for different folks.

 

[barry richardson]

You can try bimetal blades too, prices in between carbide and carbon steel. I used them.a lot when I was.processing a lot of desert iron wood. They don't normally come in the thin or flexback though. If you have a 14" bandsaw I would stay away from carbide, they fatigue on small wheels and break prematurely, at least that is my experience. with a Lennox trimaster.....

 

[aag562]

do not use wood slicer on green wood.
Eric gave you good advise. his price is a little low. I buy carbon steel blades from Supercut. I get a lot more cuts than 1 or 2. 144" is a little over $20. 2 of my saws have supercut- one has carbide. Why- I cut wet wood and a lot of burl. It can have anything in it. rocks-nails-wire. run into hard objects- carbide or any other wood blade and blade is done.
I never even used grizzly blade on saw- they live up to their Reputation of being crap.

I was given the blades from grizzly because they messed up on my order. I would normally not them. Thank you for the advice I do appreciate it. I normally don't cut green wood as I mentioned its 90% stabilized woods and burl. I will check the site mentioned. Amazon so far is the best price @ $3 150 3/4 3tpi

 

[Karl_TN]

No shipping or anything else. That is $8.40 for one 144. Plus sh. Let us say $10 a blade. I pay $10 more for a good blade I just have to put on saw. For someone like me that would rather cut than work on saw that is small savings considering I can make much more cutting. Different strokes for different folks.

I’m still trying to figure out how to break even in this hobby so I try to save money wherever I can. Some days I do wish that could make a living selling BLM burl Like you, but I need to retire first.

Anyway, that price above is just something that I found doing a quick search on eBay. I‘ve already bought 3 blade coils for myself at 50 cents a foot which I think included shipping. This means a 133 inches (11 ft) blade for my 18” Jet bandsaw cost me $5.50 each plus about 15 cents in silver solder and 10 minutes to my time to grind and solder. Nice thing is I always have a sharp blade in hand whenever I want one. This is really meant for people want to save some money, or just like doing something for themselves.

 

[Mike1950]

I was given the blades from grizzly because they messed up on my order. I would normally not them. Thank you for the advice I do appreciate it. I normally don't cut green wood as I mentioned its 90% stabilized woods and burl. I will check the site mentioned. Amazon so far is the best price @ $3 150 3/4 3tpi

do not buy supercut from amazon- go to website- buy direct.

 

[Mike1950]

You can try bimetal blades too, prices in between carbide and carbon steel. I used them.a lot when I was.processing a lot of desert iron wood. They don't normally come in the thin or flexback though. If you have a 14" bandsaw I would stay away from carbide, they fatigue on small wheels and break prematurely, at least that is my experience. with a Lennox trimaster.....

The supercut gold is a biMetal. You are right on wide Carbide blades. I use the lennox CT. It can be resharpened. People say the Laguna re-saw master in 3/4 lasts a long time on 14".

 

[Mike1950]

I’m still trying to figure out how to break even in this hobby so I try to save money wherever I can. Some days I do wish that could make a living selling BLM burl Like you, but I need to retire first.

Anyway, that price above is just something that I found doing a quick search on eBay. I‘ve already bought 3 blade coils for myself at 50 cents a foot which I think included shipping. This means a 133 inches (11 ft) blade for my 18” Jet bandsaw cost me $5.50 each plus about 15 cents in silver solder and 10 minutes to my time to grind and solder. Nice thing is I always have a sharp blade in hand whenever I want one. This is really meant for people want to save some money, or just like doing something for themselves.

I do not think Hobby and breaking even go together. seems hobby is something you do for fun- like fishing or hunting-Money pits.
mine is a Hobby gone bad- turned into business. I enjoy it and it does do more than break even. some people have to stay more than just busy...

 

[Karl_TN]

No shipping or anything else. That is $8.40 for one 144. Plus sh. Let us say $10 a blade. I pay $10 more for a good blade I just have to put on saw. For someone like me that would rather cut than work on saw that is small savings considering I can make much more cutting. Different strokes for different folks.

@Mike1950, What Supercut 144” blades are you getting for anywhere near $8.40 each? Nothing I’ve found on their websites comes close to that price on their website.

 

[Mike1950]

@Mike1950, What Supercut 144” blades are you getting for anywhere near $8.40 each? Nothing I’ve found on their websites comes close to that price on their website.

I think you miss read or I miss say. I pay 20-25. My thought is do what I do best and ta hell with the rest. I can cut a lot of blanks in the time it takes to make a blade.

 

[Karl_TN]

I think you miss read or I miss say. I pay 20-25. My thought is do what I do best and ta hell with the rest. I can cut a lot of blanks in the time it takes to make a blade.

I misread what you were saying. I braze my own blades because it takes a lot less time than sharpening which didn’t work very well for me and the 75% savings is nice whenever I dull a blade like when hitting a nail or rock. There’s a lot in this hobby that doesn’t make financial sense when considering all the time and cost involved (I.e. chainsaw milling), but I find some satisfaction in knowing that I did it myself. Still if I had your burls then I might not mind spending $25 on blades.