1. To all members, we have made some changes to the rules. We encourage you to take a moment and re-acquaint yourself with the rules.

Best finish for Big Leaf Maple

Discussion in 'The Charles Neil Finishing Forum' started by larry C, Jan 12, 2019.

  1. larry C

    larry C Member Full Member Thread Starter

    Messages:
    677
    Likes Received:
    289
    Location:
    Elberta, Alabama
    First name:
    Larry
    Guys, I'm turning a bowl from a fantastic BLM burl that I bought about a year ago.....I've never turned BLM, or worked with it in the past. I have used a lot of soft maple over the years, and usually finished it with lacquer, either brushed on or sprayed.

    I don't want to stain or dye this burl, and at this point, I don't want to screw it up.....any advice on the best finish to use will be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Larry
     
    • Sincere Sincere x 1
  2. Mike1950

    Mike1950 Founding Member Founding Member Full Member

    Messages:
    22,384
    Likes Received:
    6,731
    Location:
    Eastern Washington
    First name:
    Mike
    Pictures or what burl??? :lol2::thanx2::unknown::impatient:
     
  3. barry richardson

    barry richardson Moderator Staff Member Global Moderator Full Member

    Messages:
    8,304
    Likes Received:
    2,948
    Location:
    Buckeye AZ
    First name:
    Barry
    I've turned a couple of pieces from it and used lacquer, I was very happy with the results. If the wood is soft or punky, an oil finish can tend to really darken those areas...
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. larry C

    larry C Member Full Member Thread Starter

    Messages:
    677
    Likes Received:
    289
    Location:
    Elberta, Alabama
    First name:
    Larry
    When I get this one a bit further long, I'll post pictures...

    I agree with the statement that oil finishes will darken the punky and end grain areas.......I don't use oil much anymore....When I had my shop in Indiana, I sprayed a lot of lacquer, both regular and catalyzed. Its hard to beat, and easy to repair when damaged..
     
  5. rocky1

    rocky1 Creator of Shavings and Sawdust! Full Member

    Messages:
    8,998
    Likes Received:
    3,517
    Location:
    Way North Florida
    First name:
    Rocky
    MinWax Polycrylic would be my "Go To" if I didn't want to darken it, it typically does not darken anything. Applied it to small Redwood Burl bowl I was working on recently and had to go back and wet sand with BLO to bring the figure out.

    Have found it to be an excellent finish otherwise, very tough when completely cured.
     
  6. larry C

    larry C Member Full Member Thread Starter

    Messages:
    677
    Likes Received:
    289
    Location:
    Elberta, Alabama
    First name:
    Larry
    I use Polycrylic on a lot of the furniture I build, especially, the tops......it's the first waterbased finish I've ever been sold on....it't nearly as hard as a catalyzed lacquer.....
    17 years ago, I built a dining table, with a rosewood top. I finished it with Polycrylic, brushed on, and applied 12 coats, I used the satin.....then wet sanded to 600 grit,
    then rubbed that out with dry newspaper......it turned out beautiful! I told Jacquie not to "baby" this finish, but use it......we've spill water, soup, you name it, and other
    than an occasional newspaper rub out, no problems.
    The only thing that messes it up will be from laying a leaking flashlight battery on it.....I'm speaking from experience! It can be repaired, but it can be a challenge...
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. Mike1950

    Mike1950 Founding Member Founding Member Full Member

    Messages:
    22,384
    Likes Received:
    6,731
    Location:
    Eastern Washington
    First name:
    Mike
    BLO on these

    DSC_0059s.JPG

    DSC_0065s.JPG
     
    • EyeCandy! EyeCandy! x 4
  8. larry C

    larry C Member Full Member Thread Starter

    Messages:
    677
    Likes Received:
    289
    Location:
    Elberta, Alabama
    First name:
    Larry
    • Like Like x 1
  9. Nature Man

    Nature Man Member Full Member

    Messages:
    6,994
    Likes Received:
    921
    Location:
    Redding, CA
    First name:
    Chuck
    BLO? Chuck
     
  10. Mike1950

    Mike1950 Founding Member Founding Member Full Member

    Messages:
    22,384
    Likes Received:
    6,731
    Location:
    Eastern Washington
    First name:
    Mike
    Thanks, I am a one trick pony when it comes to finish anymore. General WOP. biggest mistake with bigleaf is not sand enough in beginning to get the little-pits-chip out Or ? sanded out. do that on coarse grits and it is easy to get nice finish.
     
  11. larry C

    larry C Member Full Member Thread Starter

    Messages:
    677
    Likes Received:
    289
    Location:
    Elberta, Alabama
    First name:
    Larry
    I started at 80 grit Abralon, and went through the grits all the way up to 1000.....mirror finish, and look's good with gloss lacquer on the outside......will be starting to hollow the inside
    today or tomorrow.....the little pits are a challenge, but then so is life sometimes :givebeer:
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Mike1950

    Mike1950 Founding Member Founding Member Full Member

    Messages:
    22,384
    Likes Received:
    6,731
    Location:
    Eastern Washington
    First name:
    Mike
    On burl I cheat on the little pits- eye holes. I sand with finish and throw fine sanding dust to fill pits.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. larry C

    larry C Member Full Member Thread Starter

    Messages:
    677
    Likes Received:
    289
    Location:
    Elberta, Alabama
    First name:
    Larry
    That'll work fine, I do it also sometimes......it just depends on the effect I'm trying to achieve with the final finish...
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Mike1950

    Mike1950 Founding Member Founding Member Full Member

    Messages:
    22,384
    Likes Received:
    6,731
    Location:
    Eastern Washington
    First name:
    Mike
    But on boxes above I did none of that- sanded to 220 used gloss finish and very fine steel wool to make satin with a antique wax. I like the wax for the soft silky feel.
     
    • Informative Informative x 2
    • Funny Funny x 1
  15. ironwood man

    ironwood man Member Full Member

    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Cortez Colorado
    First name:
    Doug
    When working with burl I agree it needs to be sanded quite fine. We made thousands of boxes sanding to 400 to 600 grit using kingsport paper for final finishing. It was yellow and was designed for stainless steel. After that we buffed with green Tripoli about 1600 grit and then oiled our boxes in a thin citrus based oil that did not have the petroleum smell of Watco. Final top coat was buffed on carnauba wax. Maintenance can be polish with a soft cloth or rebuffed.
    Good luck
    Doug
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  16. Steve in VA

    Steve in VA Member Full Member

    Messages:
    321
    Likes Received:
    157
    Location:
    Virginia
    First name:
    Steve
    Boiled Linseed Oil
     
    • Thank You! Thank You! x 1
  17. ironwood man

    ironwood man Member Full Member

    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Cortez Colorado
    First name:
    Doug
    The oil use to be made by Livos. I think it was boiled linseed. The unique part of their blend was the thinner made from extracts of citrus fruits that made it smell good and gave it a nice thin consistency for great penetration.
     
    • Informative Informative x 1
Current Time: 6:23 AM