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Cherry Burl Hollow Form

Steve in VA

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Im thinking about getting a hollowing tool that I can use on smaller openings, those look like they would do the trick. Are the shanks on the cutter round? would hate to have to buy replacement cutters from him, since HSS square stock is so cheap by comparison, would they accommodate a square shank?

The cutters are only $5 - $6 each. The hook tools do use a round shank whereas his straight tools use the square stock. Here's a picture of them from his site. I have nothing to compare to, but you might want to check out Trent Bosch as well. He has 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 1" tools with both HSS cutters and carbide cutters. I understand he is about to start selling them in the 3/8" size as well.

Jordan Cutters.PNG
 

TimR

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Steve, you did that piece of cherry burl proud, thanks for posting. Just a thought on the hooktool cutter...if that shank on it is 1/4" diameter I have a small carbide tool (same 6mm carbide as the hook tools I've made) that could replace the hooktool cutter.
 

Steve in VA

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Steve, you did that piece of cherry burl proud, thanks for posting. Just a thought on the hooktool cutter...if that shank on it is 1/4" diameter I have a small carbide tool (same 6mm carbide as the hook tools I've made) that could replace the hooktool cutter.

Thanks again for the piece Tim! Interesting idea on replacing the cutter with carbide. As I mentioned to @barry richardson Trent Bosch does offer his with carbide cutters and Mike Hunter also sells a replacement tip to fit into the Jordan bars. I'll have to measure the diameter of it as I'm not sure what it is off the top of my head.

The issue I have with Jordan's #2 hook tool is it's incredibly grabby. I can use the #1 hook tool all day long and never feel it grab or catch. I can even get fairly aggressive with green wood removal and not be the least concerned about losing control or getting a catch. Put the #2 tool in my hand and touch the tip to wood, any wood, and all bets are off. It's actually strange that I can use one so well and the other has gone to the bottom of my tool drawer. I'll measure them tonight and get back to you, but that's certainly a possible solution. Thanks!!
 

trc65

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I've got the Jordan hollowing tools as well, but don't have the whole sets got 2 each of the 1/2" and 3/4". I don't have the hook tool that Steve is having problems with. I've been using the 1/2" handled and the 3/4" with Trent Bosch articulated arms. I'm happy with the tools, and prefer using a set screw to hold cutters vs CA glue that some systems use.

Steve, the only thing I do when the hollowing tools are acting up is to give the cutter a slight turn like you might do if you were sheer scraping with it. Probably only a degree or two off horizontal, but it seems to help.

Just a note on the Jordan 3/8" tools, I'm pretty sure that they only use the hook tool cutters with the round shaft.
 

Steve in VA

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Steve, you did that piece of cherry burl proud, thanks for posting. Just a thought on the hooktool cutter...if that shank on it is 1/4" diameter I have a small carbide tool (same 6mm carbide as the hook tools I've made) that could replace the hooktool cutter.

Thanks again Tim, but the shank on John's cutters is 3/16" vs. 1/4". If you don't mind, I'd love to see a pic of the cutters you're talking about though,
 

Steve in VA

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I've got the Jordan hollowing tools as well, but don't have the whole sets got 2 each of the 1/2" and 3/4". I don't have the hook tool that Steve is having problems with. I've been using the 1/2" handled and the 3/4" with Trent Bosch articulated arms. I'm happy with the tools, and prefer using a set screw to hold cutters vs CA glue that some systems use.

Steve, the only thing I do when the hollowing tools are acting up is to give the cutter a slight turn like you might do if you were sheer scraping with it. Probably only a degree or two off horizontal, but it seems to help.

Just a note on the Jordan 3/8" tools, I'm pretty sure that they only use the hook tool cutters with the round shaft.

Thanks Tim and I definitely use the set screws as well as it makes taking the cutters out for sharpening quick and easy. Appreciate the tips on slightly angling the cutter! I've tried that, as well as slightly rotation the shaft, angling it up, down, sideways, etc. I've even used it on a non hollow form to try to see what going on and why it seems to grab vs. the #1 hook tool. It's very strange, but I can't figure it out and thus it stays in the bottom of the drawer. This convo has me wanting to pull it out and give it another go, but then again I've been down that road a time or two:scare3:
 

TimR

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Thanks again Tim, but the shank on John's cutters is 3/16" vs. 1/4". If you don't mind, I'd love to see a pic of the cutters you're talking about though,
I have these in 3/16” round shank (shown), 3/16” square, and 1/4” round.

99CC06F8-3B6F-4931-BB0D-D28A21C96731.jpeg
 
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Steve in VA

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Those look like a great alternative to the hss cutters Tim! Thanks for sharing!!
 

duncsuss

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If you, or anyone else, is familiar with it and have any tips, I'll love to chat about it.
Steve, have you called John Jordan to ask his advice? He's very approachable and I'm sure would want you to get the best out of the tools you bought from him.

From time to time, he joins Tod Raines, Lyle Jamieson, Steve Worcester, Cindy Drozda and Joe Fleming to do a "vendor workshop" free video session where they show off bits and pieces. Last time I sat in on one they took questions, here's a link to the most recent session.

 

Mike Hill

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Or drive down to the AAW Symposium in Chattanooga - he is supposed to be a demonstrator and also have a booth in the retail area.
 

Steve in VA

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Steve, have you called John Jordan to ask his advice? He's very approachable and I'm sure would want you to get the best out of the tools you bought from him.

From time to time, he joins Tod Raines, Lyle Jamieson, Steve Worcester, Cindy Drozda and Joe Fleming to do a "vendor workshop" free video session where they show off bits and pieces. Last time I sat in on one they took questions, here's a link to the most recent session.


Thanks Duncan! I've seen these sessions before and will try to join the next one they have as well. Funny enough, I actually did call John. It was when I first got the tools and I felt as though I was interrupting his lunch. He told me I probably need to practice a bit more to get the feel for it and that he doesn't have any problems with the #2 hook tool :lol2: In fairness, as I mentioned it was when I first got them and now that I have a lot more time with them I should probably give him another call. So far though, I've been able to get by without using the #2 but as I get into more complicated pieces that may become an issue.
 

duncsuss

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The biggest problem I've had with hooked tools is when they start to cut, the shaft rotates in my grip and turns into a catch.

I find practicing the cut in air helps a bit - let the tool rotate the way it would inside the form, and figure out if the result of the rotation is going to dig the cutter in deeper or spin it out into the air. It's not intuitive - I find the further away from the lathe bed axis the tool handle is, the higher the likelihood of the cutter head moving into solid wood (and thus catching) but it might be different for everyone as it depends on the sequence of hollowing and shape of the hollow.
 

Steve in VA

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Is your comment Duncan about the "further away from the lathe bed axis the tool handle is" related to not having a point of reference to being perfectly horizontal? In other words, the bed makes it more intuitive if your handle is above or below center?

What I find strange about it all is that I have no issues at all with the #1 hook tool. The #2 is generally going to be deeper into a piece, so the same variation in being off a bit from horizontal would translate into the cutting tip being higher or lower than with the #1, all else being equal of course. That may be playing into it! Thanks again!!
 

duncsuss

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I think it's more to do with the diameter of the circle the cutting tip travels when the handle spins in my grip. The #2 will draw a larger circle than the #1 (because the bend is greater) and I think if that circle is larger than the hollowed out space inside the form, disaster is very close.

Makes it even more important to have the tool rest far enough back from the mouth of the workpiece so the straight part of the shaft is on the rest, not the curved portion.

But it might be as you say, easier to maintain a level tool when the tool is closer to the ways.
 
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