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I would mark as Mr. Peet suggested then cut down to close to line at 2" intervals. Bust out leftover with hammer then fine tune to line. I have watched modern cabin guys do it that way.Use farmers math...block the bench to the sitting height on a flat, relatively lever area. Take the foot log, slide it up against, perpendicular to the seat. Use a strait edge to extend the plane of the foot log to see where it intersects the bench. Mark out the half round. Use the same end of the foot to mark the other side. Repeat for the other foot, with the other foot, then roll the bench over and carve out the half-round with a chainsaw.
You want to minimize notching the feet, to maintain maximum roundness for water run-off. I assume you are using oak. Osage and black locust work well too. Are you pining the bench to the feet? Lots of folks use timber spikes or landscape tie nails and so on. They rust in nice. They have hot dipped galvanized too. You can use hidden pins also. Doweling and glue just don't cut it if you have real winters. What I did at the camp I managed was used the twisted tie nails. Pre-drilled 2 pilot holes into each foot, hammered them it to depth, cut them off to the length I wanted to go into the bench, marked the bench bottom and drilled the pilot holes, used a grinder to point the cut off ends of the spikes, placed the bench, used a sacrificial block to protect bench, hammered together.
Now just nailing down through the bench (using pilot holes) is far easier. This was an outdoor sanctuary, so wanted to limit any rust chances from ending up on kids clothing. Plus the nail ends puddle water and expedite rot.
Some folks notch both the bench and the feet, like a log cabin corner. However, log cabins are built ( the old school real cabins) with roofs extending to protect from direct water. With some of the oaks, locust and osage, even with both notched, you might get 20-40 years.