I used W. D. Lockwood pigments dissolved in alcohol. Used paper towel to selectively apply the stain. It's probably obvious but the stain is applied with the lathe off
A few things I've learned:
1. You
really need to pay attention to sanding - I only went up to 320 and when you combine that with not having all my stuff unpacked I was unable to do radial sanding. You can see all the marks in the wood. Martin goes to 400, some folks go as high as 600. Adding color makes everything pop, including the sanding scratches.
2. The quality of paper towel matters. Mine is real cheap and has a dot pattern impressed on it. Those dots sometimes got in the way and put more stain down than I wanted when I was trying to blend the colors.
3. Don't forget the sanding sealer step (after color applied.) While putting the oil on I kept getting color bleed off. Some is normal but the green seemed to bleed more and I'm pretty sure that that muddied some of the colors.
4. I think I got this part correct, but ensure the dye is dry before moving on to the next step. I used a heat gun and the surface looked dry - but it may not have been.
Doing colors like this is not for those folks that just want to whip out a turning in record time. It really does require some time between some/most of the steps. I don't believe that Martin's video is available unless you're a member of the group. It was done during a live demo on Facebook. It's too bad, really, as he had a lot of really good info in it.