Fly box method(s)

DLJeffs

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Jonathan ( @JonathanH ) and I have been trading messages about fly boxes and I needed to post some pictures to better explain myself. So I thought I'd move that whole discussion here just in case someone else is interested and more important, in case someone else has a better idea.

Wooden fly boxes are not commonly carried while fishing although they certainly could be. Most of time, a fancy wood fly box is used to save and display special flies, sometimes flies that caught a "life" fish; flies tied by someone special; flies tied by the owner but ones he or she wants to save. Obviously wood fly boxes make special gifts for a fly fisherman. Not to be exclusionary, you could easily apply the same description to a box that was made for hardware lures instead of flies. Most boxes of this nature have relatively thin sides, top and bottom because weight is a concern in fly boxes. Since this box isn't going to be carried around weight isn't such a big deal but we still like to make the box with thin sides, smallest hinges we can find, etc. We were talking about methods for making a fly box and I was trying to explain the router method I used. So here's where we'll start.

The router method is pretty fool proof because you use a pattern. The collar of the router follows along the inside edge of whatever pattern you design and as long as you keep the router base flat on your pattern, it cannot go anywhere you don't want it to go.

1. Pattern: your pattern board needs to be cut from wood that is just slightly thicker than the collars you have for your router. I could be wrong but I think most pattern collars for routers today are around 3/16" to 1/4". I used a scrap piece of 5/16" plywood for this pattern. You also need to consider how you will secure the pattern to your work bench while routing. I clamp mine using trigger clamps. So that means I need to have enough overhang on my pattern for the clamps AND also to allow my router base full access around the pattern. For demonstration purposes, I'll photograph my pattern for a 4"x4" fly box. The total pattern board is at least 24" long with the pattern cut in the middle.
pattern overall.jpg
I found it helpful for me to glue in strips of wood to frame the wood that will be routed. In this case, I used some scrap 3/8" pine. Glue the scrap pieces so the inside dimension fits the blanks you'll be using. In this case it's 4"x4", but you could make it 4"x6" or whatever. These scraps secure the actual wood and prevent it from sliding around under the pattern as the vibration from the router gets going. Notice that the cutout for the pattern is around 1/8" smaller than the outer dimension of the fly box. You can adjust this to achieve whatever thickness you desire for the walls of your fly box (remember you can always trim it later or sand it down if it's just evening up the edges, etc). Trying to get much thinner though you increase the risk of blowout from the router bit, so I recommend 1/8" or slightly thicker. You can always sand the finished box to get thinner sides if you want. If you don't want to install these positioning scrap pieces, you can use a couple strips of double stick tape to help hold the blank in place while you route it. In this close up shot, you can see the positioning scraps are glued in place leaving a 1/8" reveal (that will be the thickness of the sides of the finished box). And the scrap pieces are glued in to snugly secure the 4"x4" block of wood that I want to use for the fly box.
pattern showing dimensions.jpg
Note: it's better to use a larger blank and cut it to final shape after routing the inside than to try shim in a blank that's slightly too small for your pattern. Or remake your pattern slightly smaller to fit the blank you're using.

One other point, this pattern is for one side of the fly box. I'll have to duplicate this process twice and route two blanks to make a complete box. You could make a double pattern that allows you to route both sides of the fly box without having to unclamp and install a second piece of wood. If you have a long board and want to route the inside of the fly box and then cut it apart with a band saw or on the table saw, that would be the way to go. Just duplicate the cutout you see above (so there are two cutouts in your pattern. Position it on the board you want to make the fly box from, clamp it in place and route the inside. Then remove the pattern and cut the boxes apart on your saw. This might allow even thinner sides if you want. Note: you can use a single pattern also, you'll just have to route one side, and then reposition the pattern on your board to route the other side, and then cut the sides apart on your band saw. Note: if you're doing this, don't glue scraps of wood to frame your blank, just leave your pattern board flat and use double stick tape to help secure it to the blank.

2. Pattern shape: your pattern needs to accommodate whatever hinges you plan to use and if you plan to use tiny magnets to close the box. I get the smallest brass coated hinges from Lowes or Home Depot, but you can probably find small hinges from specialty suppliers too. Generally, the sides of the finished box are too narrow to screw hinges to, so I leave wider areas where the hinges will go. For my boxes I locate those wider areas in the rear corners. That leaves more of the space inside the box for flies. Nothing says you couldn't move the hinges inward but that makes for a more complicated pattern and small narrow spaces between the hinge and side of the box, etc. And I like using tiny magnets for closures so on the side of the pattern opposite the hinges, you see a small bump. When routed, this will leave a wider area into which I'll drill a hole and glue in the magnet. If you are using an external clasp or something, you can omit this "bump' in your pattern.

3. Routing: test fit the blanks you will be routing. They should fit snugly inside the scrap pieces you glued around the pattern cutout. You can see this gamble oak blank I'm trading to Jonathan is too small for my existing pattern and I'd have to remake the pattern if I were to use these gamble oak blanks.
pattern showing wood for box.jpg

If your happy with the fit of your blank, flip the whole thing over and clamp it to your work bench. I use two trigger clamps with 3/8" scrap pieces under the overhangs to get a solid clamp pressure. I've also found it helpful if I have a piece of sand paper taped down on my bench under the blank, it helps prevent the whole thing from vibrating and moving around. I use a 3/8" three flute down cut bit (down cut because it leaves a cleaner edge along the inside of the box), but an up cut bit probably works just as well and helps throw the chips out of the cutout. I set my router depth so the initial pass is about 1/8" deep. Start the cut with the bit slightly inside the edge of your pattern and slide the router over until the collar is up against your pattern. Then going clockwise, make a smooth pass around the pattern. Once you've gone all the way around your pattern, start routing out the rest of the inside. I go back and forth trying to just overlap the bit width. It isn't crucial you do this neatly, but if you overlap too much, you'll leave little nubs you have to go back and route away. Once you've completely cleaned out this first pass inside your pattern, lower your bit another 1/8" more or less, and repeat. Keep doing this until you get to the desired final thickness of the bottom of your box. When you've reached that point, I lower my bit a fraction and make one final pass to clean up the cuts as much as I can to minimize sanding. And you have one side of your fly box ready to sand. Test fit the other blank, flip it over, clamp it in place and route the second side of your box in the same manner.

Note: if you are trying to align or match grain, make sure you check how you've positioned your blank in the pattern board before you start routing.
pattern clamped in place.jpg
 
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BangleGuy

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I am loving this thread Doug. Can we see more of the process and finished fly boxes? :popcorn:

Or if there's a past thread you made, I would like to see more :treehugger:
 

JonathanH

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Great write up on the fly box process, Doug! Some pictures of finished boxes, yours or others, would be a great addition. Thank you for taking the time to do this. Well done!
 

DLJeffs

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Thanks, glad you find it useful. Here's a couple photos of finished or mostly finished fly boxes. Next time I make some I'll take photos of the next steps and add some explanation. There are a couple minor steps that are worth describing. Making the mortises for the hinges is one and once you have the hinges installed, often the sides don't line up precisely and you need to hit the sides on your belt sander to clean them up properly. Then maybe a little about cutting the ripple foam. There isn't much that's unique or special to the process.
fly boxes close up.jpg

finished toucan fly boxes.jpg
 
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2feathers Creative Making

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Thanks, glad you find it useful. Here's a couple photos of finished or mostly finished fly boxes. Next time I make some I'll take photos of the next steps and add some explanation. There are a couple minor steps that are worth describing. Making the mortises for the hinges is one and once you have the hinges installed, often the sides don't line up precisely and you need to hit the sides on your belt sander to clean them up properly. Then maybe a little about cutting the ripple foam. There isn't much that's unique or special to the process.
View attachment 265943

View attachment 265944
Nice detail on your boxes. Have you ever considered the little round hindges that you drill a small hole and insert the hindges and you are done ?


And yes, I did spell that way on purpose. The folks at work had their metal trim coil break marked " don't cut the hindges" at both ends to remind the workers to be careful of cut through... We have made pointed remarks about the hindges ever since...
 

DLJeffs

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I have not tried that style of barrel hinge you mention, mostly because they seemed expensive and heavy (compared to the cheapo version I get at Lowes anyway). And I'd still have the problem of getting the holes in opposite sides drilled in precisely the right place so the sides align exactly, so I think I'd still have to hit it on the belt sander after I installed the hinges. So other than being invisible, those hinges didn't offer much of an advantage in my opinion.
 

2feathers Creative Making

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Ok. I thought that dowel center finders would make it easier to locate your holes and my main idea was it would keep you from needing to mortice the hinges in. But them being a bit expensive makes sense for sure. I was thinking of design, not price. When I make stuff, I am keenly aware of the price, so likely, I won't use them either...
 

DLJeffs

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Since we're on the topic of hinges I'll describe how I've done it in the past (I won't have photos of this step until the next time I make a fly box).

Fully open a hinge and place it on one of the wide sections at the rear of the box. Be as precise as you can - locate the hinge so the centerline of the pin (that holds the two sides of the hinge together) is aligned with the back outside edge of your box side. Check also that the hinge is square to the box (if the hinge is angled your box will bind when opening). Pressing the hinge tightly in position, carefully score or mark the sides of the hinge. An Exacto knife or similar sharp edge works pretty well for this step. Next, deepen your score marks until they are approximately half the depth of your hinge. Alternately, if you have a fine tooth, fine blade hand saw, you can cut tiny kerfs, just remember to stay inside your marks.

The photos below are not an actual fly box, but they'll illustrate the important points.
hinge location.jpg
This is where I like to locate my hinge relative to the rear edge of the box. This allows the box to open 180 degrees and lay flat while minimizing the amount of hinge that extends outside the box. If you locate the hinge farther inside the edge of the box, the box won't open 180 degrees.

hinge exacto knife scoring.jpg
Score on the inside edge of your mark.

hinge score marks.jpg
I used a fine tooth saw to make these score marks. The one on the left is correctly done, the one on the right is too far inside and I'll have to clean it up with a chisel or sand paper. Ideally, I want my hinge to fit snugly inside the mortise when I route out inside the score marks.

I use a Dremel with a 1/8" flat bit for the next step. Attach the router base to your Dremel and set the depth of the bit to precisely half the thickness of my hinge. When you mortise both sides of the box, the result is a mortise that allows the hinge to recess such that the box closes flush. If your mortise is too shallow, you will have a gap at the rear of the box. If your mortise is too deep you'll have a hard time screwing the hinge in tight. Note - it's better to err on the shallow side and if necessary, sand or chisel it to get your proper depth.

This isn't the bit I use for mortising the hinges but it works for illustrating the depth I shoot for. I try to cut my score marks in the box to this same depth or just slightly shallower.
hinge dremel bit depth.jpg

Keeping the Dremel base flat against the box, carefully route out the mortise. If you watch closely, when the bit gets close to the score marks, the wood will chip out and leave you with a nice clean edge. If you try to hit your marks using the Dremel without scoring it first, there's a good chance you can miss your mark making a sloppy edge and resulting in the hinge not fitting inside the mortise.

Test fit the hinge in the mortise and make any adjustments needed using a sharp chisel, file, or sand paper on a clean sanding block. Place the hinge in the mortise and mark where the screws go. Center punch and drill pilot holes for the screws using a 1/16" bit. Drill about 3/4 the length of the screw so you still get a good bite. Screw the hinge into place.

Close the hinge, cut a small section of good double stick tape and attach it to the upper surface of the hinge. Align the other side of the fly box and press it down so the double stick tape fixes the hinge to it. Note - I cut a small piece of cardboard to place in between the hinge halves to ensure the side with the tape will hit the side of the fly box. Carefully open the box trying to keep the hinge taped to the upper side. Mark or score the upper side and repeat the process to make mortises.

Alternately, you can position the two fly box sides back to back and align the sides so they're flush. Open the hinge (which is screwed to the side you already mortised) and mark/score the opposite side that way. (I'll take photos next time I do this step).

No matter how careful I am or which method I use, I always seem to find at least one corner or side of my fly box doesn't align flush. When this happens, just close the box naturally, don't force it, and then pinch it tightly in that position and run it on your belt sander to smooth out any inconsistencies. Using the belt sander I also put a tiny 45 degree bevel on the edges of the fly box that mate together. This also helps mask any misalignment from the hinges.
 
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DLJeffs

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Do you like the barrel hinges? Sure look more finished than my el cheapo hinges. I like that the inside is a cleaner cutout too.
 

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Do you like the barrel hinges? Sure look more finished than my el cheapo hinges. I like that the inside is a cleaner cutout too.
I love them! If for no other reason than the look and functionality they provide. Worth the extra cost for that polished appearance. I was selling these boxes at the time and it was a classy way to set my boxes apart from the others.

They are finicky though. Everything needs to line up kinda perfectly for them to open and close properly. When I made fly boxes like the one I posted above, it was a few years ago and I was doing the routing and hole drilling by hand, so any slight misalignment between the two halves would cause issues. Even with the dowel centering things, my drill bits might wander ever so slightly and that would be it.

Nowadays, I have a little desktop CNC that these fly boxes would be *perfect* for as far as project ideas are concerned. Perfect alignment every time!
 

DLJeffs

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I hate to hear you say that about alignment. I was hoping maybe those hinges made it a little less likely. It's probably the biggest problem I have. I can start with a box that aligns perfectly, almost where I can't tell where the seam is. By the time I'm done installing hinges, it's off enough that I have to take it to the belt sander to even out the off set. Happens no matter how careful and precise I try to be. I guess it's just the way the screws go in and one or more pull the hinge off just enough to make it visible.
 

hokie

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I may be over-exaggerating the "perfection" required a little, but I mention it because I did have a couple boxes scrapped because I didn't take as much care in the alignment as I should have.

On the plus side, if you think about it, instead of drilling 8 holes for traditional hinges, you're only drilling 4. With calipers or an alignment jig of some sort, you'd probably be just fine. In those days, I was going at it with some pencil lines and a Harbor Freight drill press with visible run-out or a cordless drill, haha.

Also worth noting, I recall that sometimes if I opened and closed the box a few times before the adhesive in the hinge holes cured, they would sorta self-align and pivot a bit to a point. If that didn't work well enough, I could yank them out quick enough to at least not ruin the hinges.
 

Mike1950

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Nice work. And tutorial. Where do you put the night crawlers... šŸ˜‚ sorry, I will go away now....
 

DLJeffs

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You always keep your night crawlers in your mouth. They're much more active when they're warm. Inside a fly box they get cold and lethargic.
 
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