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Glue for veeners

Discussion in 'Veneering' started by Treecycle Hardwoods, Jan 27, 2015.

  1. Treecycle Hardwoods

    Treecycle Hardwoods Founding Member Founding Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Hey there I plan on working with some veneer in the near future and was wondering what glue type is best that can be commonly bought at a box store or local hardware store? I know that regular wood glue is water based and can cause the veneer to wrinkle so I have been looking into alternatives.
     
  2. Schroedc

    Schroedc Apprentice Saw Maker Staff Member Global Moderator Full Member

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    I used Weldwood nonflamable contact cement on a couple different projects. It worked fine on the paper backed oak veneer I used on one project but on the crotch veneer I used on the icebox I'm working on it caused some swelling and then shrinking of the veneer (Probably due to being water based) which left hairline cracks I'll need to fill somehow.

    3M super 77 spray adhesive does list wood and paper as materials it bonds and will probably try on the veneered panels for the doors of the icebox but haven't yet.
     
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  3. TimR

    TimR Sawdust Engineer Full Member

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    Greg, I've only done a couple small veneer jobs for boxes, but I experimented and found that treating the back of the veneer with dewaxed shellac allowed me to use Titebond on it with excellent results. I'm sure there are better ways, but that worked for me on a small job.
     
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  4. gman2431

    gman2431 Member Full Member

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    I was wondering about spray adhesives.

    I'll be following this thread to see what everyone says.
     
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  5. Wilson's Woodworking

    Wilson's Woodworking Member Full Member

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    Many years ago I did some with contact cement but that was back in high school and I don't know if there is a better way. I will be watching for what the experts say here.
     
  6. tocws2002

    tocws2002 Member Full Member

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    I generally use Titebond white, II, or III depending on the application, but most of what I've worked with has been very flat veneer (or already softened and pressed flat). If you have some burl or other "wavy" veneer you'll probably need to flatten/soften it and may want to try hide glue and hammer veneering. You can even use "hide glue in a bottle" which is premixed, but it helps to warm it some before using.

    -jason
     
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  7. Treecycle Hardwoods

    Treecycle Hardwoods Founding Member Founding Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Hide glue is a traditional glue for veneer in but they don't sell it at my local box store I can check the local hardware store and see if I get lucky there.
     
  8. barry richardson

    barry richardson Moderator Staff Member Global Moderator Full Member

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    Dapp Weldwood Plastic Resin glue AKA urea formaldehyde glue. sold at True Value, and maybe Ace. It's a powder you mix with water, this product or similar are what professionals use for veneering. Assuming you are using a vacuum bag or press....
     
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  9. Steve Smith

    Steve Smith Member Full Member

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    The answer to your question is: None

    Unibond 800 is what the professionals use. Do yourself a favor and buy glues that are designed for veneering. You can buy a titebond veneer glue at Rockler, et al, or you can buy Better Bond from Joe Woodworker. Don't use contact cement unless you have paperbacked veneer.
     
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  10. Damienw

    Damienw Member Full Member

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    I've always used hide glue for my veneering needs, though there arent that many places near me that sell it either.
    Could you not buy some online? If not you could possibly buy some from an art supplies shop or maybe (in a smaller quantity) from an antique restorer or a local cabinet making business?
     
  11. Steve Smith

    Steve Smith Member Full Member

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    Jason's reference to liquid hide glue is this: http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=9e9995b4-08eb-4fc6-8254-c47daa20f8ed
    I've never used traditional or the liquid hide glue, but I've heard others that used it with success. If you don't have access to a vacuum set up or have a bazillion clamps and cauls the hammer method may be the most effective. Roarockit makes a low cost vacuum set up that works fairly well. It doesn't pull a strong vacuum, but it is uniform, which is more diffcult when using clamps. http://www.roarockit.com/tap.php?id=13
     
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  12. tocws2002

    tocws2002 Member Full Member

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  13. barry richardson

    barry richardson Moderator Staff Member Global Moderator Full Member

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    Unibond 800 is a urea formaldehyde glue, same as Dapp plastic resin glue, I've used both, they perform and behave identical. Dapp comes in a small container, cheaper, Unibond 800 more expensive and only available in bulk from specialty sources, Unless your doing a very big project, it's a waste of money cause it all has a limited shelf-life after opening (a few months, give or take) and a little goes a long ways.... On another note, I've heard the pre-mixed hide glues, because of inhibitors added to keep it fluid at room temp) don't perform as well as stuff made fresh from flakes. You can probably get the flakes on line...
     
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  14. Mike1950

    Mike1950 Founding Member Founding Member Full Member

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    I have used the titebond and the resin. I had a very difficult time getting the titebond to dry. I left it clamped for 24 hours and watched all that work wrinkle before my eyes. Edges were dry center was still very wet. I was using multiple ply layers in a curved formed. The resin does not have this problem.
     
  15. Wilson's Woodworking

    Wilson's Woodworking Member Full Member

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    Just to make sure you are talking about the Dapp plastic resin glue? I have some veneer on the way and will be doing a fairly large project in the near future.
     
  16. Mike1950

    Mike1950 Founding Member Founding Member Full Member

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    Unibond or dapp
     
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  17. Treecycle Hardwoods

    Treecycle Hardwoods Founding Member Founding Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Thanks for all the input guys. I should have said it in the beginning but I am going to be doing some veneer faces on bandsaw boxes. I have a few ideas in my head that involve burl veneer on the drawer fronts I think I could get away with clamping VS vacuum. I am just keeping my fingers crossed that I don't end up with a potato chip for a drawer front.
     
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  18. cabomhn

    cabomhn Member Full Member

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    Honestly Titebond cold press veneer glue works great. There is no mixing and has a long set time, similar to titebond III just with less time rush to get everything in place. I've been very happy with it's performance on my box I'm doing currently and does a great job when used with a good foam glue roller. It's cheap and easy to use and I can't imagine it not working for most projects.
     
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  19. Mike1950

    Mike1950 Founding Member Founding Member Full Member

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    Matt, It does work good for me in a one layer application. I was gluing multiple layers of veneer together in a form. Making curved plywood. Worked with oak but nothing else. I t did not dry in 24 hrs and 70 degree heat.
     
  20. cabomhn

    cabomhn Member Full Member

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    How thick were the layers you were doing? Anytime I've done lams with 1/16 or thicker I have used Unibond 800 with pretty good success, I must have misinterpreted the original question!
     
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