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HELP! Wipe on Poly

Discussion in 'The Charles Neil Finishing Forum' started by Bigg081, Mar 29, 2019.

  1. Bigg081

    Bigg081 Connoisseur of Man Glitter Full Member Thread Starter

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    My wife and I are making nightstands for one of our guest bedrooms. We used poplar wood since this is not really our forte and wanted to start with something cheap. They are mid century modern style and have come together extremely well. (Much better than we expected.) Until we applied Wipe-on polyurethane. Small particles got into the poly while it was still wet. I know if we sanded it down we could reapply but we have Minwax wood stain on there and don’t want to ruin the stain.
    Is it as simple as using 320 or 400 grit sandpaper and lightly sanding with the grain and then applying the next coat?
    I’m thinking we may need to move these outside to get away from the dust in the shop. Don’t laugh at me too hard! I typically only use oil or wax finishes. Or my favorite Shellawax on my turnings. This polyurethane is all new to me.
     
  2. barry richardson

    barry richardson Moderator Staff Member Global Moderator Full Member

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    Try rubbing it out with a brown paper bag, shouldn't take off the finish....
     
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  3. Sprung

    Sprung Amateur Sawdust Maker Full Member

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    The brown paper bag that Barry mentions will work well for removing dust nibs.

    I have written up here how I apply a wipe on poly finish. I specifically use General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, as that is the best one I have found and have had the best results with, but other wipe on poly's will apply the same way.
     
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  4. Bigg081

    Bigg081 Connoisseur of Man Glitter Full Member Thread Starter

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    I also spoke with a look furniture/cabinet maker. He assured me that it is pretty normal to get the little bits of dust. He typically applies 2-3 coats, light sanding with 400+. Then 1-2 more coats with a very light sanding before the last. Very close to your method.

    I showed my 'Rookie-ness' with this one. LOL
     
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  5. FranklinWorkshops

    FranklinWorkshops Member Full Member

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    My final rub is with 2600 grit which leaves no scratches. Between coats is 600. I really like the Watco wipe-on poly.

    817q3H3SnxL._SL1500_.jpg

    watco-polyurethanes-shellacs-lacquers-68041-64_1000.jpg
     
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  6. pvwoodcrafts

    pvwoodcrafts Member Full Member

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    I use Bartleys wipe on varnish but it is a satin finish. Been using it for 25+ years on all furniture. This stuff is amazing. You can put on a coat and throw it in the sawdust pile and it won't affect it. 6 hour between coats you can put the minimum finish on in a work day. I usually apply 5 coats to turnings. It will have an absolutely dust free finish no matter what
    IMG_3065.jpg
     
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  7. FranklinWorkshops

    FranklinWorkshops Member Full Member

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    I also used Bartley's for at least that long for furniture. Love the stuff. But I didn't know they still make it. The Bartley's company went out of business many years ago. Did they sell their finishes business to someone else? I'll have to search for it, if so.
     
  8. Bigg081

    Bigg081 Connoisseur of Man Glitter Full Member Thread Starter

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    I need to look unto this stuff! We are making a dresser next. Might use that.
     
  9. FranklinWorkshops

    FranklinWorkshops Member Full Member

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  10. pvwoodcrafts

    pvwoodcrafts Member Full Member

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    I don't know if you still order it as Bartleys gell varnish Tried some other wipe on varnish when I couldnt find Bartlett and was disappointed
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2019
  11. pvwoodcrafts

    pvwoodcrafts Member Full Member

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  12. FranklinWorkshops

    FranklinWorkshops Member Full Member

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    Mike, if I recall we used to buy quarts of this for $13.95 and lots of local paint stores carried it. Now it's nearly $30 plus shipping. I have a partial can that was first opened years ago and it's still good. Just have to scrap off the hard top coating it gets and it's good to go.
     
  13. pvwoodcrafts

    pvwoodcrafts Member Full Member

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    Your right I remember it being $13. It has been made by several different companies since I first started using and purchasing it from Bartleys. I buy it by the case to save on shipping and usually go through 2 or 3 cases a year now. It sounds expensive but once you see how far it goes it isn't really that bad, especially considering its fool proof. Just got to remember to wipe it dry. If you try to cheat and leave it wet hoping to build faster your just kidding yourself. I usually put a small amount in a pimentos jar, maybe 1/4 full , to use on bowls and smaller pieces to keep from opening and closing the quart can. Little bit goes a long ways especially after it has been sealed the first coat. I also use Bounty paper towels to wipe dry. Tried lots of different things but the bounty works the best. Then the used ones go straight to the fire
     
  14. FranklinWorkshops

    FranklinWorkshops Member Full Member

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    Sounds like we are totally aligned on application method, even with the Bounty. The only time I ran into an issue was when I didn't fully wipe it dry after application. I finished a very large dining room table using it in 1992 and it still looks great. I always put on three coats and let it dry a full day between coats.
     
  15. TurkeyHunter

    TurkeyHunter ML Turkey Calls Full Member

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    Big how are things going man? Did you ever get anything built with that Walnut? I actually just picked up a pretty nice Walnut tree that my cousin cut last year. Pretty straight and a NICE crotch in 1 of the logs.
     
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