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how do I remound this bowl

Karda

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Hi, I found a bowl I turned a few years ago and want to return it, the bottom and side are to thick, a common mistake i am trying to overcome. I have know center markes on this bowl and I have only one chuck with 50Mm jaws. any ideas about how I can remount this bowl thanks
Mike

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JonathanH

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I like looking back at some of my earlier projects as is and less than perfect. It's a great way to see a measurable progression of skills while reminding yourself what you enjoy about woodturning & the journey.
 

daniscool

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Possibly friction mount the bowl backwards with the tail stock, and then turn a tenon. To clamp with your jaws. Then proceed with the normal bowl turning procedure. The friction fit is dangerous. So take very thin passes.

An alternative is to glue a waste block on the end and do the same.
 

trc65

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There are a few ways to do it depending on what equip you have.

Cole jaws? Mount the rim with tabs inside , or outside the rim and use tail stock pressure and cut a new tenon, or recess. Reverse and turn.

No Cole jaws? Could turn a piece of wood to fit inside the bowl and just use friction and tail stock pressure to turn a new tenon/recess. Finding center with the tail stock is just a matter of trial and error.

Have a piece of plywood or MDF laying around that's slightly larger than the rim? Mount on a faceplate, turn it round and then cut a recess to match the rim, use tail stock pressure to hold it in place. If you don't have a faceplate, can use a glue block on the plywood/MDF and just use pressure between your chuck/tailstock to turn it.

All the above assume you have enough bottom thickness for a tenon or recess. If the bottom it thin, I'd use a glue block. Glue it on, use one of the above methods to hold the bowl while you true the block.

I've used all the above methods, and they are relatively quick and easy, just remember to take light cuts until you have it secured in your chuck.

There are other more involved methods (like making a donut chuck), but most people have enough scrap laying around to use the above methods.

If you wanted to just thin the bowl by cutting the outside (leaving the inside alone), you could mount it using one of the above methods and slowly work the outside without mounting it in a chuck.

Hope one of those method sounds good to you, or at least provides you with an idea or two so you can fashion something similar.
 
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duncsuss

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I'd most likely use one of these methods - or a slight variation.

Make a tenon that fits the jaws of your chuck on a piece of wood you don't care about: standard method - put it between centers with the grain oriented across the lathe (bowl-style), turn the corners off, make a good quality tenon on one end. Put your chuck on the headstock and mount the block of wood using the good quality tenon you just created. Face off the block so it is flat, lay a steel rule across it to be certain it isn't domed.

Then take a piece of 3/4" plywood which is larger than the bowl rim and glue it onto the faced-off block. Bring up the tailstock to apply pressure while the glue sets. Tomorrow come back and make it round, and face it off so the face is square. With a parting tool, cut a shallow ring a bit smaller than the inner diameter of the bowl rim. Expand this groove a little at a time until the entire rim fits into the groove. Sand the groove.

That's it - with the rim of the bowl in the groove, bring up the tailstock. I'd use a live center with a flat end - or put a piece of wood/cork/HDPE between the point of the live center and the bottom of the bowl. Simply to prevent the point from leaving a dimple or worse (eeek!!!) piercing the bottom of the bowl.

If you want to be ultra-cautious, you could put some masking tape in the groove - I'd only use 3 small pieces arranged at 120-ish degrees to each other. Less likely to burn the rim if you get a catch and the bowl starts to spin in the groove.

A "good quality tenon" : must match your chuck jaws. If the jaws are dovetailed (on the inside), the tenon should also be dovetailed - but LESS angled than the jaws, so the tips of the jaws clamp ahead of the sides of the jaws. The tenon must not hit the bottom of the chuck. The corner between the sides of the tenon and the face of the "flange/ring" around the tenon must be clean and sharp. The flange itself must be flat or slightly concave/undercut - if there is any gap at all (such as because the ring around the tenon is slightly domed) the block will not seat properly and it could vibrate in the chuck or even work its way out entirely.
 

Karda

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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
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Thank for the tips alot to think about. Ill try the glue block first, I think I can get a good center on the bootom
 
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