How To.....Hold a 14" x 1 1 /4" Platter blank to a lathe?

[Mlyle]

Ladies and Gents. ....and woodturners...

I want to turn a large platter.....1 1/4" thick but. ...

using a woodworm screw may be too deep!!!
faceplate may also use screws too deep!!!!

maybe I can use a glue block (hot glued) to my platter blank

what other options do I have???

cmon now I know yer all much smarter than me!???!

 

[Tom Smart]

Using your wood screw put some spacers on the screw between the chuck and blank so it does not goes as deep but keeps contact with the chuck/spacers.

 

[Mlyle]

oh yeah yer a Smart guy for sure!!!!


ahhhhhhh.... cool I like that idea

for a 5/4 blank......how deep can I / should I. go with the worm screw? would you think?????

 

[Mlyle]

thanks good idea

 

[Tom Smart]

Hard to say without seeing or feeling it. Depends on weight of the blank, shape, inclusions, integrity (i.e. is it punky). Minimum probably 3 or 4 threads worth. Figure how deep you can go based on your intended shape and put as many threads as possible.

 

[Tom Smart]

Another option, depending on your comfort level and what your intended finished project is, just use a flat jam chuck and tail stock pressure.

 

[Mlyle]

being 14" i thought i may need about a 10 " jam chuck......that was my very first thought

 

[Mlyle]

no punk pretty sound piece.....and very flat now

actually i just got this blank from Larry over at
Franklinworkshop

 

[Mlyle]

@FranklinWorkshops

hey Larry.....we are talking about you.....see above

 

[TXMoon]

Following but I think I'd go the glue block way.

 

[Tom Smart]

Following but I think I'd go the glue block way.

Certainly an option.

 

[Gdurfey]

A demonstrator at our club used double sided tape......but blank was only about 10 inches and much thinner/lighter. Just wanted to type though.

 

[Steve in VA]

How to hold it.......very carefully!!!

• Buy shorter screws
• Larger faceplate with more screw holes if you have one; like you need an excuse to purchase new equipment!
• Plywood spacer with your faceplate. Similar to Tom's suggestion to effectively shorten the screws, but still gives surface contact with plywood & faceplate
• Glue block
• Use a spur drive with tailstock support. Create a mortise and then flip it around to use a chuck.

**** I would not follow my advice without thinking it through. I'm interested as well and just throwing out ideas

 

[Nubsnstubs]

Use a Chuck Plate, made by none other than good ole Nubsbnstubs. Here is just one picture of it holding a a natural edge piece while making the tenon. I invented it in 2010. It allows me to turn a tenon on a 1/4" thick piece and you have to hunt for the dimples the screws made on the face. Go to my website listed in my signature below to get a better look at it, and if you choose, from there you can access my youtube channel to see some videos of it in use. .......... Jerry (in Tucson)

 

[Nubsnstubs]

Actually, Michael, if you have a chuck with 100mm jaws, find the center on the tenon side, and bring up the live center and tighten the piece between the face of your jaws and live center. Turn a tenon, and then re-mount it and finish the piece. .......... Jerry (in Tucson)

 

[FranklinWorkshops]

Some of the guys bought 17" diameter blanks. Maybe one of them can offer help after they turn one.

 

[DKMD]

I would probably use a spacer and the wormwood screw as Tom described. Tailstock support and ~5/8” of screw penetration is plenty solid in my experience.

You can add a glue block to the tenon side of the blank to preserve thickness if needed.

 

[Karl_TN]

How to hold it.......very carefully!!!

• Buy shorter screws
• Larger faceplate with more screw holes if you have one; like you need an excuse to purchase new equipment!
• Plywood spacer with your faceplate. Similar to Tom's suggestion to effectively shorten the screws, but still gives surface contact with plywood & faceplate
• Glue block
• Use a spur drive with tailstock support. Create a mortise and then flip it around to use a chuck.

**** I would not follow my advice without thinking it through. I'm interested as well and just throwing out ideas

I often use Steve's two faceplate suggestions together if the platter blank is thick or off balanced. My faceplate only came with 4 holes, but I drilled another 4 holes for extra holding power and safety especially when using a spacer to keep the screws from going too deep. You are less likely to mess up the platter by using 8 shallow screws rather 4 deeper screws.

If you decide to go the glue block route then consider gluing a sheet of paper in between to make it easier to separate after turning a mortise or tenon for mounting in a chuck. Let the glue dry overnight and use tailstock for safety.

 

[Mike Mills]

From a Jimmy Clewes workshop I attended many years ago.
Mount between center (spur or steb). Top of the platter towards the tailstock. Turn a 3/8" tenon for your chuck jaws. You only need to clear enough from the top to insert your jaws.
Reverse holding in your chuck and turn and shape the bottom with a recess.
Reverse and shaped the full top.

 

[Mlyle]

@Nubsnstubs
Well Jerry you sold me......I just bought yer chuck plate?!!!!
can not wait to see just how good of a tool building engineer you are
I will let you and every one know soon!!!!