making your own veneer

jimmyjames

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Has anybody cut they're own veneer on a band saw? I can cut 1/8" slices with repeatable quality, can one cut a green block into slices and dry it without it wrecking itself? I may slice up a small block of my walnut burl like this too see what it will do. How do you dry it? Do you just lay them out and let them warp and then maybe when you use them just press them flat onto the surface your glueing them too?
 

ButchC

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jimmyjames said:
Has anybody cut they're own veneer on a band saw? I can cut 1/8" slices with repeatable quality, can one cut a green block into slices and dry it without it wrecking itself? I may slice up a small block of my walnut burl like this too see what it will do. How do you dry it? Do you just lay them out and let them warp and then maybe when you use them just press them flat onto the surface your glueing them too?

I know that there is a veneer conditioner that can be applied to a veneer a short time prior to applying to the substrate that softens the veneer and makes it pliable, and allowing you to "remove" the waviness from the veneer. Search for marquetry supplies for the veneer conditioner as I cant remember the name of it.

The "veneer" I cut was done on a tablesaw with a thin kerf blade, and then run through a planer to get to the correct thickness. Its a lot of waste, but the stock I was using was free.

Hope that helped a little.
 

jimmyjames

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Maybe I could put the sheets between some plastic grading I have that's used for dropnxieling light covers, it will hold it flat and still let it dry, and also cut them 3/16 and then run them through the sander to even out the thickness, or just glue it to whatever I'm going to veneer and then run that through the sander.....
 

Mike1950

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I have cut green veneer. Just put them in a stack with paper towels between them and weight it. Changed the paper towels daily at first. Or sticker and put in cool spot of shop so they dry slowly. Conditioner works after they are dry.
 

NYWoodturner

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+1 to what Mike said. I have cut my own green - stacked it with brown craft paper like you wrap packages in though, not paper towels. then put plywood on top and bottom and clamped or weighted. ow bad it wrecked depended a lot on species. My biggest problem was the consistency of the cut on wider pieces.
 

phinds

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Generally, 1/8 thick and thicker is not considered veneer, it's just thin-wood, such as is used on the front/back/sides of guitars.
 

phinds

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If you click on the green 'This' it should take you to the Veneer Supplies page that has the veneer softener.
Aha. I did not see the green The first time. For some reason (old eyes?) it's more clear in this post. Thanks.
 

chicago

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I had trouble seeing the linked text when I set it. Whomever built this website should change the link color to red or bolden it which would make it easier to see. Easy to do with a simple CSS change.
 

phinds

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Yeah, I agree. @Kevin, are you listening?
 

Kevin

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Yeah, I agree. @Kevin, are you listening?

No. I'm watching though. I see all. Put your damn clothes on Paul your pink panties are hurting my eyes.
 

Kevin

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Easy to do with a simple CSS change.

I don't like going under the hood on my phone. Too easy to mash the wrong button. I'll do it tonight or tomorrow when I can get on a keyboard.
 

phinds

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I don't like going under the hood on my phone. Too easy to mash the wrong button. I'll do it tonight or tomorrow when I can get on a keyboard.
Yeah, a likely story. You just don't want to put down that beer !
 

Kevin

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Well I put down my beer and braved it on my phone. You said red and bold for hyperlinks and I did both. Even put a line under them. If you want to see if you like it go down to the bottom under styles and select the Kevin Test style that's the only one it is applied to at this time.
 

Kevin

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I think it's overkill but there's no way anyne can miss them now that's for sure.
 

phinds

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Kevin

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I guess that's a quorum. So be it. :whatever:
 
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