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My Guitar....now the work begins!

Discussion in 'Instrument Makers' started by FLQuacker, Aug 5, 2018.

  1. FLQuacker

    FLQuacker Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Well I got the (2) 7*20 halves glued up.

    Did a bunch of sanding, then let the machine do all the work.

    Comes in at 6.7 lbs.

    52 Tele design...but I deleted the vectors for the truss rod adjustment between the pocket and neck pup. Replacement necks are at the head anyway.

    Will use a toploader bridge.

    The profile cut was horrid. Instead of nice curves there were hundreds of vector points, which I should have cleaned up in the curves before I cut it. Profile is fine but it's hard on the machine hitting that many points, and sounds awful.

    I have a few short clips of the cut progress if anyone is interested.

    Overall, came out in spec.

    Now to work on finishing the body.

    IMG_20180805_194118558~2.jpg
     
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  2. barry richardson

    barry richardson Moderator Staff Member Global Moderator Full Member

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    You n your robot done good:good2: I think a cherry body is gonna be sharp......, cherry neck too?
     
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  3. DKMD

    DKMD Sawbones Staff Member Administrator Global Moderator Full Member

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    That’s going to be beautiful!
     
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  4. FLQuacker

    FLQuacker Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    @barry richardson

    Probably a mid grade maple with a rosewood fretboard. That hopefully tames it down some. Traditional tele sound really aint my thing.

    Probably some low output Seymour Duncans. I put some Hotrodded Humbuckers in an old Korean Epi we got and it sounds really sweet. Organic...but thats a LP design

    We'll see, no big expectations.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2018
  5. FLQuacker

    FLQuacker Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Did some contour shaping.

    Forearm and belly side....suttle...masculine but sexy :)

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  6. FLQuacker

    FLQuacker Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    A coat of oil....that's cool!

    IMG_20180806_152203480-816x612.jpg

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    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
  7. Blueglass

    Blueglass Member Full Member

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    I love it! If you get to making your own necks I like the spoke wheel at the heel end of the truss rod because it leaves of wood at the headstock end which is a weak point anyway. I don't think it is a huge deal but Itry to think about every little thing.
     
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  8. FLQuacker

    FLQuacker Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    The neck deal...LOL, you guys are good!
     
  9. Arn213

    Arn213 craM de la craM # RipJack City! Full Member

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    I use to think the same as well, that too much mass is taken away from the headstock for the truss rod adjustment at this area which made this area weak-
    which is true for a 14-17 degree headstock as you end up with a fork, but not for a bolt- on with a drop down headstock. See photo section of heel adjust and headstock adjust. The mass at the headstock to nut transition is the same- you can disregard the bullet style nut fitting cap because you can remove that and put a standard nut fitting at that end of it, instead of the bullet style...

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    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
  10. Arn213

    Arn213 craM de la craM # RipJack City! Full Member

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    The "spoke-wheel" fitting adjustment I do prefer as well @Blueglass because it gives you an ease of access that is within immediate reach compare to headstock adjust location. But, does have a modern look. Although, if you drill the channel access on the body heel of this tele, it should give you slack to remove the pickguard and slide the tool to adjust it. More traditional way because it is hidden, but a pita still as you need to remove the pickguard.

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    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
  11. FLQuacker

    FLQuacker Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    That is dandy. Looks vintage.

    I already found a snafu in my cut...somehow after checking 25 times, I left the control cavity too shallow. Went with the same depth as the bridge pup pocket (.850) EZ fix with a forstner bit and drill press, need another .650 The bright side is i dont have a hole in the back of the quitar......yet!
     
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  12. Arn213

    Arn213 craM de la craM # RipJack City! Full Member

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    It did appear shallow, but I thought it might just be the angle/photo distortion. I need to double check, but the control cavity is at least 1-1/2" deep (leaves 1/4" thickness for a 1-3/4" thick body) as most switches are 1-3/8" deep.

    If you need some hard dimensions, let me know and will post it for you.
     
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    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
  13. Blueglass

    Blueglass Member Full Member

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    For me it is not hidden I just put the notch in the end of the neck. At this point I'm just building for me so practicality beats aesthetics. I do an angled headstock with a scarf joint. I never cared for the Fender way of doing it, I especially don't like string retainers although I know staggered tuning machines get around that. I grew up mainly on Gibson style but really like things about Fender so I steal from each, ha ha.
     
  14. Arn213

    Arn213 craM de la craM # RipJack City! Full Member

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    Just gave Wayne some visual reference and some options as he is still at the earlier stage. I forgotten Les that you did a scarf joint and a 13 degree angled headstock. YES, I agree with the headstock that has a steep 14-17 degree angle becomes very weak as there is only a small amount of mass between the headstock neck shaft transition/fault line grain direction at it flows through the headstock area/truss rod access weakens the headstock transition. I also in agreement that the nut adjustment should be at the butt end of the neck. Makes sense to me in 3 ways, plus the ease of access when you want to adjust the neck.

    484D537C-E329-4729-9B93-E97E4543282F.jpeg

    I also am in agreement that I don’t care for string trees on a drop down headstock. I prefer staggered tuning heads so the break angle is greater where the string meets the nut and keeps the strings from popping off the nut.

    A luthier I know figured out a way from many years building on 6 in line tuner heads with the standard drop done- he slightly angled the headstock (don’t know how much, but a subtle degree) and according to him, it yields results that he can vouch for: a). keeps the neck from pulling the face direction due to string tension, b). stays in tune much better, c). keeps the strings from popping off the nut, d). staggered tuners need not apply. He wanted the drop down to look familiar for traditional S & T style players and subtle enough angle to not make it foreign to users and to not detach from the original intent of the headstock detail.
     
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    Last edited: Aug 7, 2018
  15. FLQuacker

    FLQuacker Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Good info...yes, the depth dimension I have is 1.5". I have the control plate ordered and will wait to meaaure it before I cut deeper.

    On a neck note.....it just hit me this morning I may already have one! A rather nostalgic one at that.

    The 1st electric combo we bought my son, think mid 90's. (Lotus)

    That would be neat

    From measurements I get without taking it off....the bolt on pattern is 1.5 x 2. Width at the heel is around 55 mm...so far so good. Nut width is about 42mm

    Looks standard

    I'd have a luthier look it over and redo it of course....1 piece maple with a rosewood board ???

    IMG_20180807_101914035-612x816.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2018
  16. Arn213

    Arn213 craM de la craM # RipJack City! Full Member

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    The depth is perfect at 1-1/2”:good:.

    Standard bolt-on neck pocket is 3” long, 2-3/16” wide and 5/8” tall.

    FYI......there is a difference in the pocket detail in a tele and a strat. A tele has a “square pocket” (no curvature) and a strat has a “round pocket” (there is a slight curvature at the end of the heel pocket side wall). That figures in when you fabricate your neck. Having said that though, which I have done- if you don’t mind the “inside” corner gaps, you can mix it. But, if you want to do it right, match the detail. Now, it seems you want to use your son’s strat neck if I am reading it correctly? By all means as a “trial” type of thing, do it. Assemble everything and see where the weight falls and more importantly how the cherry body sounds with strat maple/rosewood fretboard. Just keep in mind what I told you about the tele having a squared pocket and the strat with a rounded pocket- expect to have an inside gap. Let us call that as experiment #1. I just pulled these off my shelf- see attachment so you can see what the end of the heel looks like between a tele (square heel) and a strat (curved heel).

    9954B134-8EEA-406B-A6F8-D58D74E83241.jpeg

    If experiment #1 doesn’t work- importantly whether the maple neck wood/rosewood fretboard material will sound with the cherry body. I have an inkling that this combo might be a hair too bright and you might have that “shrill” factor (if the neck shaft is hard maple/quarter sawn and the rosewood fretboard is dense and quarter sawn). So, it is a wise and inexpensive way to test that combo with the already made neck. Experiment #2 is building a neck wood material that will sound properly with your cherry body.

    Les mentioned it earlier, and it’s is probably wise to have all the parts such as hardware, etc. in hand so this way you have everything and you can dry fit, etc...
     
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    Last edited: Aug 7, 2018
  17. Arn213

    Arn213 craM de la craM # RipJack City! Full Member

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    By the way if you end up with experiment #2 in which you have to fabricate a neck. Ask your son what neck he likes that is comfortable that he uses and plays with. You can then take those dimensions and use a “contour gauge” in the 1st fret and the 12th fret for an estimated profile. Please “do not” make a standard vintage nut which is 1.625”. It is way too narrow especially if you have big hands as it is challenging to do chords at the 1st fret to 2nd fret. I am imagining you want this to be “custom fit” as possible for your son so he can vibe with it.
     
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  18. kweinert

    kweinert Member Full Member

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    You folks are talking a foreign language - but I'm having fun following along.

    The body looks really nice and it's just damn interesting to see someone else demonstrate what they know and learn new stuff whilst doing it.

    Keep it up - I've got some popcorn gettin' fluffy as we speak.
     
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  19. FLQuacker

    FLQuacker Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    This is an exercise in learning for me with input from some amazing builders!

    @Arn213

    I'm on the path of trying that neck. I see what you mention about heel radius. Strat in a Tele pocket but not vice versa

    It's a 22 fret neck so the fretboard hangover will cover the heels radiused curve (gap) against the pocket.

    I do need to take some measurements to get an idea of it's (neck) radius.

    I'm am really digging this color combo....red/brown tortoise shell pickguard :)

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  20. Arn213

    Arn213 craM de la craM # RipJack City! Full Member

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    That is pretty nice combo!

    The 22 fretboard with the hangover will be fine and will clear the pickguard.

    You need a radius gauge for the top of the fretboard- usually strats and tele are 7.25” radius (vintage specs.) or 9.5” radius. Neck shaft profile which is the underside of the neck, you need a profile gauge for that. They cost as low as $ 15.

    Do you know off hand what is the weight so far with what you have? Just trying to get you a ballpark what the weight might be at this stage and possibly what the finish weight might be. You are probably in the neighborhood of 8.7 pounds or so about now.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2018
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