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My Largest Bowl/Platter to date

Discussion in 'Turners' Completed Projects' started by Gdurfey, Mar 13, 2019.

  1. Gdurfey

    Gdurfey Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Flame box elder I won from our monthly wood turning club raffle. Not a lot of flame, also wasn’t sure which should be top or bottom....... almost forgot, my first use of the Sorby texturing tool. 11.5 inches in diameter......

    8DF3D68E-F200-42E7-8755-237B83C379F9.jpeg

    DBA5B87C-D372-43DD-92FB-CEF5FC047AB6.jpeg

    015A2240-CA07-481B-B8AD-DD6250D1DCC8.jpeg
     
    • Way Cool Way Cool x 5
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    Last edited: Mar 13, 2019
  2. B Rogers

    B Rogers Member Full Member

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    Looks great. Texturing tool was a nice touch. I'm not a bowl turner so I've never seen how they're used but looks cool.
     
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  3. pinky

    pinky Member Full Member

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    Love the bottom!
     
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  4. David Hill

    David Hill I collect & use Texas woods---but prefer Mesquite. Full Member

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    Nice turn!
    Like how it dressed up.
     
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  5. Nature Man

    Nature Man Member Full Member

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    Sweet! Texture adds dimension, which works well. Chuck
     
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  6. ThomasT

    ThomasT Member Full Member

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    Hello Garry,

    Beautifully done.

    Have a great day,
    ThomasT
     
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  7. barry richardson

    barry richardson Moderator Staff Member Global Moderator Full Member

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    That came out great! Well done. What's the finish?
     
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  8. TimR

    TimR Sawdust Engineer Full Member

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    Agreed, nicely done!
     
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  9. Gdurfey

    Gdurfey Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    just simple friction/homemade French polish. Not sure if it will get sprayed or not, but thinking about leaving as is. thanks, this has been a fun journey these last 2 months!!!
     
  10. Nubsnstubs

    Nubsnstubs Where is it??? Full Member

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    Garry, when I get a piece of wood ready to mount, especially if it's crotchwood, I'll put the feather at the tenon. I suppose you should do the same for any wood that has flame, spalting or other features. Try to get it in the bottom of each bowl and creeping up the sides. I've turned away too much good looking stuff and end up with the features only on the sides with the end grain.

    The bottom of your bowl looks fantastic. If I had done it, I probably would have turned the scratches off the outer rim. Since they only go halfway, I think you put them there as part of your texturing feature. It's still some of the best texturing I've seen.

    What did you use to hold your piece for texturing?? ................ Jerry (in Tucson)
     
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  11. Gdurfey

    Gdurfey Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Jerry, if I know what you mean by “hold”, I left it chuckeded and turned the speed down to about 400. I tilted the Sorby about 45 degrees right and drug it left from center, then tilted left and went back. Will turn it down a bit more next time.
     
  12. Nubsnstubs

    Nubsnstubs Where is it??? Full Member

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    What I was asking was what did you use to hold the piece in place to remove the tenon and then do the texturing??? Vacuum, Cole jaws, Longworth chuck, or a good fitting jam chuck? ........... Jerry (in Tucson)
     
  13. Lou Currier

    Lou Currier Member Full Member

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    I like what you did on the bottom. Is this the first time trying the texture tool?
     
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  14. Gdurfey

    Gdurfey Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Gotch ya.....nothing.....internal tenon and I finished the bottom before flipping it around.

    I do have cole jaws I have used on other projects and that is my go to method. Knowing this was bigger, I tried to do the bottom this way to avoid those issues. That is part of my learning process right now and has been my biggest problem here of late.
     
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  15. Gdurfey

    Gdurfey Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Yes Lou. Seen it used several different times at our club demos so thought I knew how to jump in, but I need a scrap piece to practice on. Can’t believe I tried it on this piece and came close to getting away with it.
     
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  16. Nubsnstubs

    Nubsnstubs Where is it??? Full Member

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    Boy, pictures sure are hard to decipher. At least for me. After you said internal tenon, I looked again at the picture, and can see what looks like a recess. Ok, that makes sense now.

    I would like to know what issues you have with the Cole Jaws you have. I almost bought a set a long time ago, but I saw inherent issues I didn't want to deal with. Then, instead of getting any of the tools on the market for bottom finishing, I invented the Tail Stock Steady. I would like to know what issues you have with the CJ's. You can PM me with the info if you like. It would be appreciated. ............... Jerry (in Tucson)
     
  17. Gdurfey

    Gdurfey Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Not an issue Jerry. Mine are the Nova cole jaws that mount on their standard G3 chuck. I have never gone to the larger nubs (or whatever they are called) and gripping power just isn’t there. As a new turner, sometimes my “soft” cut isn’t soft enough and I can shift my piece. Then there is the constant adjusting, swapping jaws, etc.

    I am heading to Utah on business and am going to look at the Longworth adjustable cole jaws at Craft Supplies. I have a bad habit of throwing money at problems, I need to do more thinking instead and use my problem solving skills.....well, I think I should have a few........

    Having said all of that, depending on the diameter and rim shape, the cole jaws have worked both internal and external.

    Hope this helps Jerry. Take it for what it is worth from a newbie.
     
  18. rocky1

    rocky1 Creator of Shavings and Sawdust! Full Member

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    Speaking from experience you aren't going to escape the issues seen with the Longworth Chuck either Garry. It's simply the nature of the beast. One has to think of the geometry involved, and you really have to remember you're turning on rubber bushings so don't get carried away. Even final passes on the bottom of the bowl can be iffy without tailstock support.
     
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  19. Nubsnstubs

    Nubsnstubs Where is it??? Full Member

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    Garry, I agree with what Rocky posted. He is so much more articulate in his observations. What he didn't say is there are at least 4-8 spinning nubs sticking out that can cause some grief if you get your knuckles or fingers in them.

    Without sounding like a sales pitch, go to my website listed in my signature and look at my Tail Stock Steady. I invented it in November, 2012. I've finished over 6-7 hundred plates, platters, hollow forms and bowls since then. I only had one loss, and if Blake is still around on this site, he most definitely can verify that. :sorry: Blake, young buddy. Had I not lost that one, I would be running 100% success. Loss is defined as "losing it from between centers". I've lost a bunch because I went through the bottoms.

    I thought it was worthwhile enough to spend over 6 thousand bucks for a patent.......... Jerry
     
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  20. rocky1

    rocky1 Creator of Shavings and Sawdust! Full Member

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    Assuming you're referring to the rubber nubs, I think there's 12 nubs sticking out on my Longworth Chuck. There's a damn pile of them when you start trying to tighten everything, at any rate.

    When I speak of thinking about the geometry above, I'm referring to fulcrum and levers. You're a long way out in a deeper bowl, thus applying more force than you realize. Further out you are on the bottom of the bowl you are, the more you increase said leverage. Doesn't take much of a catch to impart enough force to move the bowl in the rubber nubs honestly. Without tailstock support, it doesn't take much of a catch to remove it from the rubber nubs.
     
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    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019 at 11:50 AM
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