new to scrolling question

Discussion in 'Scrolling Section' started by lvstealth, Feb 14, 2018.

  1. lvstealth

    lvstealth Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    i have recently bought a scroll saw, it is a cheap one, a Wen. but it is good to learn on. i got it in December and have fallen in love! i found intarsia and away i went.

    now for questions...

    first, let me say that everything i know is from google and jumping in head first.

    1) tightening the blade - how tight is tight? i see lots of stuff on it but i am tone deaf. is there a way to know i have it right without having to hear a pluck of the blade? i am guessing i have the tension wrong on the blade because i havent broken blades!

    2) everything i see says dont push, but if i dont push some it does nothing but make noise... so i push, then after a bit i find i am pushing a lot harder, i am guessing this is a blade gone dull, but if that is the case i am using blades at a remerkable rate (a new one every 10 to 15 min of actual cutting)

    3) cutting hardwood, and i mean hard hardwood (Satin, Redheart, orangeheart and others) well... at least for me it is hard! at this point, i can cut things, but have no idea if i am right. i go very slow... very very very very slow. has to be something wrong!

    4) pinless blades and cutting the center out of something. i drill a hole, but the blade through then spend forever getting the thingy on the bottom because i cant see or touch it, i have to do it like fishing with a blindfold on.

    5) i am using blades recommended by Judy Gale Roberts. the sizes for what i am doing are 3, 5, 7 and occasionally some others, but these are the ones i use the most. is there another economical blade, since i go through an inordinate amount? i go on Amazon and look, but the size info is not 1,3,5 etc, it is some mm measurement. the JGR blades are $3.50 for a dozen but i have to pay shipping. if i could find what i need on Amazon i have prime and that is free shipping.

    then last... and this is a weird question... but i use some aromatic cedar, when planing, cutting, shaping and sanding it smells SOOOOOO good! is there a finish that would let the smell stay and still protect the project?
     
  2. woodtickgreg

    woodtickgreg scroll, flat, spin Staff Member Global Moderator Founding Member Full Member Forum Moderator

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    I get my blades by the gross from cherry tree on line, the have 2 main brands, Olson and Pegasus. I have tried both and I like the olsons. Get some blades of various sizes that cut in both directions, both on the up stroke and down. I run a lot of tension on my blades so they don't flex as I push the wood through them. I don't push real hard, just let the blade cut. Cherry tree will let you mix and match to make a gross of blades.
    P.S. I brake blades all the time, scares the crap out a me every time it happens, lol.
     
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    Last edited: Feb 14, 2018
  3. David Van Asperen

    David Van Asperen Member Full Member

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    I have used Flying Dutchman the most and recently have tried Pegas. Flying Dutch man makes a "scroll reverse "blade that has two teeth in one direction and one in the othe direction as Greg was talking about ,I am sure other brands do as well .
    I also use lots of tension, not much pushing ,it deflects the blade. Hard and thick woods are harder on blades ,heat build up and dull quicker. I used to use the blade as long as I could make it cut but have found that once they start to dull it is better to change it out ,it keeps the cuts cleaner with better control.
    Have you tried leaving the blade in the bottom holder and taking it out of the top on?
    Have fun and let us see some project pictures.
    Check out Steve Good's site I believe it is Scroll saw workshop free patterns and advice
    Dave
     
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  4. lvstealth

    lvstealth Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    hahaha... nope.... i just saw it the one way. ill do that! Thanks - and dont tell anyone im that .... odd.

    thanks for directing me to Steve Good's site!

    i will look at those blades, thanks!
     
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    Last edited: Feb 16, 2018
  5. David Van Asperen

    David Van Asperen Member Full Member

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    Lots of little things to learn along the way , you will find what works best for you and your saw. I do not know your saw so so info may not apply.
    Tightening the bottom blade holder is just a practiced move ,took me awhile but now I can fish blindfolded and you can too. I find it easier for me to feed the blade through the top of the board and fasten the bottom blade holder, but again do what works best for you.
    Dave
     
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  6. woodtickgreg

    woodtickgreg scroll, flat, spin Staff Member Global Moderator Founding Member Full Member Forum Moderator

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    I agree, take your blade out of the top holder and fish it through your drilled holes from the bottom. Much easier.
     
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  7. Steve Smith

    Steve Smith Member Full Member

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    You're going to need to push, no matter how new the blades are, when cutting hard, thick pieces. I'll cut 3/4" thick eastern maple, Gabon ebony, African blackwood, et al and it is difficult to get pieces cut since the feed rate must be very low.

    I tend to use a lot of WRC since it is very soft, has a wide variety of coloration and is cheap. I generally use #7 blades most often and #5 next. For thick hard stuff I'll sometimes switch to #9. I prefer the Flying Dutchman Regular and Ultra Reverse that I buy from Lesley's Patterns.

    I'd also recommend buying a vacuum veneering set up. Trying to get intarsia to glue up properly is much easier when you can vacuum bag the whole thing.
     
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  8. lvstealth

    lvstealth Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Good idea! Good information! Thank you!!!
     
  9. cgseymour

    cgseymour Member Full Member

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    Hi Lisa
    I agree with Dave. Once you get the feel for tightening bottom blade clamp, feeding through top becomes second nature

    Good luck and remember above all else, enjoy it
     
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  10. lvstealth

    lvstealth Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    on mine, you have to just sort of hook it ver the bottom then you have to hold pressure on it till you get it on the top. i found that gravity is the best! so i put the top on and "fish" for the bottom. i know... i should practice the way you say and i would master it... i just havent
     
  11. cgseymour

    cgseymour Member Full Member

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    Hi Lisa
    On mine (Dewalt) the bottom clamp has a thumb screw.
    It seems each saw's clamps are a bit different.

    Find what works best for you

    Good luck
     
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  12. lvstealth

    lvstealth Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    well... a dewalt would be nice! but i just heard about the Intarsia and found the least expensive saw and started this journey in October! but i hope to get good and buy up! i had an $80 Wen, my friend bought me a Fox (about the same as the wen but less vibration) it just has a "thingy" that hooks over the bottom and one for the top. the tension keeps it on.

    Thanks! i appreciate the feedback, and long for a Dewalt!
     
  13. Tony

    Tony Hardwood Enthusiast Staff Member Global Moderator Full Member

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    Keep an eye on Craigslist Lisa, lots if stuff pops up there. Tony
     
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  14. cgseymour

    cgseymour Member Full Member

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    Another thing to check out would be local pawn shops --
    Sometimes you can find decent deals there as well

    Good luck
     
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  15. lvstealth

    lvstealth Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    ohhhh! good idea!
     
  16. Lou Currier

    Lou Currier Member Full Member

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    Estate sales as well.
     
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