If I was doing a shop floor, I'd spend the extra grand or two and have radiant heat. It reduces heating fire risk many fold. Big deal with insurance companies. Things dry on rainy days, works easily and can be low pressure. Can heat most insulated shops with an 80 gallon water heater. Can use oil heat, or have another water based system tried in. No cold feet. 30 years of bliss for my brother's wood shop with it.
No, he had the electric in the floor too. This reduced shop flexibility. Do the top down spider web style. This allows you to drop down anywhere you need too. You can also add more line later if needed. Any 3 phase? Most hobby shops, a 100amp service can work. I'd have a 250amp, just for more possibilities. Lights are fine withe 14-2, especially with LED lighting. Outdoor lighting may need 12-2, pending loads. Split lighting on at least 2 breakers, so if you trip one, the other works. For a rectangle shop long ways, some guys do a left side lighting and a right side lighting breaker split. Then 12-2 and 10-3 should be good for most equipment. Phase limits determine need. Always an extra outlet near doors and windows for the just in case. Consider conduit if replacing line or upgrading is even a thought. Pole barn style, so 2 x 6 walls. Closed cell foam with insect control, and I'd add the fire retardant, another 12% cost. If too expensive, do 2.5" of foam and fiberglass the balance. Use open cell in the ceiling so water can drain through if you get a roof leak. Use 1/2 or 5/8ths rock on the walls and cover that with 7/16ths OSB in high use areas. Allows you to more readily attach things to the walls if need be also. Thermal doors and windows. Furnace room and office separate from the shop. Spill tray for boiler / water heater, blow offs discharged to outside. Lots of other things but sure you already have them...