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Not a good band saw day

Nubsnstubs

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I have an old Duro 14" Band Saw I bought in 1978 when I started GM Woodworking in Tucson. I used the saw quite a bit and never even came close to cutting myself until 2012. I cut a blank with the waste on the right side of my blade. I removed the waste, tossed it into the trash, and then proceeded to remove the blank from the saw with my left hand. The wood was still touching the blade, and like a dummy, I reached up to remove the blank. Duh, stuck my left thumb right into the edge of the blank and the active blade. Ouch, but lucky that it was only a deep scratch. Very little blood but a lot of pain for the next week before I was comfy again using my saw.

Two days ago, I was cutting a piece of 1 x 2" with different angles on each end, using a miter guide for the angles. After the first cut, I pulled back to adjust the angle for the second cut. The miter guide was pulled back too far and started to fall. Like a dummy, I reached up to grab it by the bar and just touched the blade with my middle finger on my right hand. A couple scratches, a curse word here and there, and I'm OK. I cut my self more than that flintknapping, so I'm good. Hopefully it won't happen again for at least 10 more years.

Then, about an hour later, I was sanding something with my Random orbit sander, and was clearing a place to set it down when I accidentally caught my left forefinger with the edge of the paper disc. It put a half inch long x 1/8 deep gash on my finger. A little blood, but it really P M O..

Today, I finally got that Rikon saw out from behind my lathe. It had a brand new Timber Wolf blade. I cut a piece of dog wood about 3" OD, and was ready to cut a couple rounds of Aleppo Pine, 1 x 7" OD. I cut it, and was marking the second one with the saw still running when the blade just broke. No reason for that to happen, but it was an excuse to put on the new carbide blade I'd gotten about 2 months ago. It was wrapped pretty good compared to how TW packs their blades. I pulled the protective plastic from the blade, installed it onto the wheels, and noticed a tooth broken. One tooth wouldn't be a problem, but then I found 2 more. I took it off and re-wrapped it and will call the maker and see what they are going to do. 8603F434-049F-4C6D-A125-854BBB615F47_1_201_a.jpeg

This image shows a good close up of one of the broken or missing teeth. The line to the left indicates the seam where the blade is welded. Beautiful weld, but careless with the teeth. It could also be that the heat from welding caused that particular tooth to fall off the blade, Maybe??
BD2A089A-457C-4E70-A969-A02EEE2542BF_1_201_a.jpeg

I was fortunate as I had another TW blade. I put it on and it worked beautifully for the 20 pieces I needed to round off. .......... Jerry (in Tucson)
 

Nubsnstubs

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what brand?

The 2 steel blades are Timber Wolf.

The carbide band is made by Sterling Saw Blades. They are labeled with Diamond Saw Works, Inc. It was more than likely welded by Desert Cutting Tools, Inc, in Phoenix.

The steel blades I used to get from the local guy were Sterling blades. I don't recall ever wearing one out. Usually bent them when milling logs pieces to get flat spots on the wood so I could make rounds. I probably used at least 60 blades in the last 20 years. All were sharp or finally broke when I tossed them, or had too many bends to keep, even though I'm pretty good at straightening them. .... Jerry (in Tucson)
 

Mike1950

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sorry meant the carbide tipped. Sterling -never heard of them. Milling logs- :scare3:- something I avoid. but have had the bent blade and sudden saw stop- and undie change.....
 

Nubsnstubs

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Mike, and others if you have interest, here you are. American made products since 1890. Hacksaw blades is what got them started. They have regional distributors across the US. Look through their website, and you have one in Portland. None in Washington, but that doesn't mean you can't get the blades you need. If you can't buy direct from them, they will give you a distributors name that's closest to you....

My old Duro bandsaw was built to accept 105" blades back in the day. somewhere along the line in '82-83, the tires wore out. I couldn't find tires to fit, so I found a local vulcanizing company that vulcanized tires to my wheels. They looked to be the same thickness, but any 105" blade put on afterward always seemed to not be as snug as before. So, I started ordering 104 1/2" blades. They are now snug, and the saw cuts as true as you would expect any saw to cut. It's a shame the tallest piece I can cut is just at 8 1/2" because most of the stuff I want to trim for turning is just over 12".

So, bought a Rikon 10-325. I can't get it adjusted to cut straight at all. I've got some large stuff that needs carbide to get it cut like Ironwood and Cat Claw. I can't do it because the carbide blade was bad. The saw won't let me cut straight, or give me a 90 degree cut. It's always curved and then the blade binds. I'll call Diamond Saw tomorrow and see what they are gonna do. I'll keep you posted. I don't see an issue as I've talked to them before about the idiot that bought the local sharpening service where I was getting my blades, and they went out of their way to be as helpful as possible.

I set up Tucson Woodcraft's 18" Laguna Saw 6-7 months ago. I actually cut a piece 17 1/2" thick, and the cut was just about as true a cut that you would get from a table saw. I thought I knew how to set them up, but this Rikon is whupping my butte.

.......... Jerry (in Tucson)
 
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