Plane blade replacement?

Sprung

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I have a Siegley plane, #7 sized. I figure it is from the time that Stanley owned Siegley. Mine is also a STS - meaning it has a tapered blade. I'm giving it some minor cleanup and a sharpening. I have a question about the blade. There is pitting right at the cutting edge - and I'm wondering what the best course of action would be. I don't relish the thought of grinding off nearly 1/4 of blade. Outside of grinding off that much, I'm guessing it's time to seek out a replacement blade. I don't imagine that I'm going to find another tapered blade for it, so I'm guessing I can use a regular blade in it? If so, what would be a good replacement? Buy a Hock? Or anyone have a good 2 3/8" wide blade of some sort laying around?

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Sprung

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I'll see about checking it out, though I'm spending less time on Facebook and in groups these days. I had thought of Brink as someone who might know. @Schroedc was another I thought of.
 

Mike1950

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I'll see about checking it out, though I'm spending less time on Facebook and in groups these days. I had thought of Brink as someone who might know. @Schroedc was another I thought of.
group is 20,000+ all over world- damn good knowledge base and best chance to find a blade
 

Sprung

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That blade is still useable. The back needs to be lapped when sharpening.
Thank you! Would you just lap that end of the blade then? Or do I need to lap that whole back side?
 

Sprung

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Thank you, Brink. I'll be working on a bunch of sharpening this weekend, including this blade.
 

norman vandyke

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Thank you, Brink. I'll be working on a bunch of sharpening this weekend, including this blade.
I just watched vid where the guy used a thin ruler to set the back up on, so just the very tip where the actual edge is would get sharpened. It only put about a half a degree on the back edge but it saves a ton of time lapping on the back side I guess.
 

Sprung

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I just watched vid where the guy used a thin ruler to set the back up on, so just the very tip where the actual edge is would get sharpened. It only put about a half a degree on the back edge but it saves a ton of time lapping on the back side I guess.
I ended up using my WorkSharp 3000 that I picked up used for real cheap to do initial lapping of the backs, then went up manually through the grits. Worked out quite well! (I have heard of the ruler trick too, but decided to employ mechanical means this time.)
 

norman vandyke

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I ended up using my WorkSharp 3000 that I picked up used for real cheap to do initial lapping of the backs, then went up manually through the grits. Worked out quite well! (I have heard of the ruler trick too, but decided to employ mechanical means this time.)
I'm a huge fan of your methodology.
 

Sprung

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I'm a huge fan of your methodology.
I currently have two bad shoulders - one from an older injury, the other from a recent injury, so the thought of running a blade back and forth along sandpaper long enough to get past the pitting didn't appeal to me. :sarcastic: I also used it to square up the blade edges before sharpening, so that it was a very quick process with the sharpening jig and sandpaper on a piece of granite to get them nice and sharp. I had 10 or 12 plane blades that I had to sharpen. Still have a mess of chisels that need sharpening - and even some of them that need new handles turned for them.
 
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