poly

Graybeard

Member
Full Member
Messages
1,773
Reaction score
1,956
Location
Wisconsin
First name
David
David talked about using a polycrylic finish. I did some digging because I didn't know what it was and came across this video. It seems like some good information.

What do you think, does it support your experience?

 

Tony

Hardwood Enthusiast
Staff member
Global Moderator
Full Member
Messages
20,472
Reaction score
27,468
Location
San Antonio, TX
First name
Tony
She pretty much nailed it. Hit all the points I would've, my experience and thoughts are exactly in line with hers. Good video.
 

barry richardson

Moderator
Staff member
Global Moderator
Full Member
Messages
10,276
Reaction score
16,761
Location
Buckeye AZ
First name
Barry
I don't care much for the polycrylic, It doesn't bring out the depth and chatoyancy in wood like an oil finish, If your just doing cabinets or stained pieces, the only upside IMO is less fumes and it dries fast. (but it doesn't fully cure fast, takes several days) I use the "Minwax Fast Drying Poly" a lot both spray and brush on, contrary to what she said, it dries enough to recoat in 3-4 hours, this time of year here in AZ only a couple of hours lol...
 

trc65

Member
Full Member
Messages
5,054
Reaction score
14,687
Location
Cameron, Illinois
First name
Tim
Ditto what Barry said.

To me, polycrylic gives a very cold appearance to wood. You can use shellac underneath it to give you some chatoyance, but it's extra steps.

If you want the look of oil based finishes without the solvents, check out Minwax Oil Modified water based poly. It is an oil emulsion with water cleanup. Looks very close to regular oil based poly. Ive not found it in big box stores around here, but Sherwin Williams stores stock it.

I wipe on almost all the Minwax Fast drying poly after thinning it about 25% with naptha. I never buy the wipe on formulation, it's too expensive for just added solvent. I can usually recoat my thinned poly in around 4 hours, although I usually just wait overnight.
 
Last edited:

DKMD

Sawbones
Staff member
Administrator
Global Moderator
Full Member
Forum Moderator
Messages
10,894
Reaction score
16,532
Location
Enid, Oklahoma
First name
David
I’ve used spray polycrylic for light colored woods where I don’t want the yellow tint from oil based finishes... box elder, maple, holly, etc.
 

DLJeffs

Member
Full Member
Messages
4,331
Reaction score
10,074
Location
central Oregon
First name
Doug
I used the General Finishes polyacrylic on those table lamps I did last month. The reason is because it is supposed to be the clearist finish around and I wanted that curly maple to stay as white / curly as possible. I found it to be easy to use and indeed did dry super clear. It appears to be a pretty hard / durable finish as well. I ended up applying 5 coats. I might have gotten away with fewer coats but I kept getting brush streaks and fish eyes from tiny bubbles. That was probably my error rather than the finish itself. It does dry rather fast especially in these warmer temperatures and that was my biggest challenge - working fast enough to avoid the brush strokes. I used a foam brush because I thought it'd be more even and quicker than a fiber brush, with fewer strokes. I used the Minwax wipe-on polyacrylic on a coat rack / storage box I built for the front entryway. It went on really well and I would recommend it. But it did darken the wood slightly. If you want super clear finish, I don't think there is one better than the General Finish water based poly. I guess that's another advantage, it is water based so clean up is really easy and thinning is simple. I've not used many other shellacs or oil based finishes so I can't offer a first hand comparison.
 
Last edited:
Top