Preferred Wood Thickness

Nature Man

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For you box makers, what thickness of wood do you like to use for boxes? Any rule of thumb depending on how large the box is? Thanks! Chuck
 

DLJeffs

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I like my sides and lid thin so I like 0.5" or less for boxes I make. But I don't make fancy coves and things like Mike does. I think if you want to do that you need to start with thicker wood.
 

Arn213

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There is no rule to this- it is based on personal preferences, proportional and balance implementations. Ideal range from 1/2” to 1/8”. The thinner dimensions are based on liner additions or divisions inside the box- such as cigar humidors or divisions for jewelry compartments.

You also have to figure in any fabric liners and any padding for the bottoms or even the sidewalls (jewelry boxes).
 

DLJeffs

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There is no rule to this- it is based on personal preferences, proportional and balance implementations. Ideal range from 1/2” to 1/8”. The thinner dimensions are based on liner additions or divisions inside the box- such as cigar humidors or divisions for jewelry compartments.

You also have to figure in any fabric liners and any padding for the bottoms or even the sidewalls (jewelry boxes).
And don't forget what hinges you plan to use. That's always a big factor in my box design. Because I like thin sides, even the smallest 2 screw hinges at the big box stores are too wide. That's why I really like that inlaid brass pin hinge that Ray ( @Ray D ) showed us how to make. It works on any thickness.
 

smallfry

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My smaller boxes range from 1/4" to 5/16" thickness. I always add a thinner liner so that makes the box look a little beefier. Some need to be a little thicker if you put a lock in them. I like to use some exotic stuff that doesn't come in very large pieces so many times the wood dictates the overall size and how thick your sides and top are.
 

Karl_TN

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DLJeffs

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I can't find the thread I'm thinking if in which Ray described how he makes these hidden hinges with 1/8" brass pins. Those ones you pictured are the spring loaded pins, right? You drill a hole longer than the pin, insert the spring, then the pin, then put the box together. The spring allows you to retract the pin if you need to remove the lid later after the box is finished. I haven't used those.

Ray's ( @Ray D ) design (or at least he's the one that showed it to me) is simple. Cut some 1/8" diameter brass rod into pins, around 3/4" long works pretty well on thin sides boxes. You find the center of your lid and drill a 1/8" hole into the side of the lid on the end you want the hinge to be. Then you find the matching location on the side of the box and drill a matching hole, but not as deep since you don't want the pin to be visible outside the box. Repeat on the other side and then dry fit it all to make sure the lid fits right, etc. You typically have to round or bevel the top rear outside edge of the lid so it clears the box side of the box when opening. Fine tune the fit until you like it. Then glue the box together, with the lid pinned into place. You cannot remove the lid once it's assembled so consider that when finishing, etc. Here's a photo to better illustrate what I'm trying to describe....

pin detail with nylon washer.jpg
 
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Karl_TN

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I can't find the thread I'm thinking if in which Ray described how he makes these hidden hinges with 1/8" brass pins. Those ones you pictured are the spring loaded pins, right? You drill a hole longer than the pin, insert the spring, then the pin, then put the box together. The spring allows you to retract the pin if you need to remove the lid later after the box is finished. I haven't used those.
Here’s a short video showing how to retract the pin. Seems easy enough to duplicate with a brass rod (cutting grooves on lathe) and using some springs from old click pens.

 

Nature Man

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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
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And don't forget what hinges you plan to use. That's always a big factor in my box design. Because I like thin sides, even the smallest 2 screw hinges at the big box stores are too wide. That's why I really like that inlaid brass pin hinge that Ray ( @Ray D ) showed us how to make. It works on any thickness.
I will have to review this. Hadn't thought about hinges or clasps yet... Was so focused on the wood at this point. Chuck
 

Mike1950

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yep- hinges are a big deal. so much variety. I used a self mortising hinge. They worked because I started with thicker wood. But all the coves and routering- I take about 40% of weight off. at thinnest the wood in cove is less than 1/4 inch. My tea boxes used a variety of thickness. all the way from 1/4-5/8 but the 5/8 had a lot of routering done to sides. The only tea box I still have- Kathies tea resides in it
 

Jonkou

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Thickness has been well covered above. Brass rod drilled and driven through the sides and bottomed in the lid is as simple as it gets. Like that though not obvious unless you look for it, can see the craftsmanship. A dab of epoxy after it’s driven will keep it in place, hold the lid centered and hold the plug that conceals the pin.

IMG_5966.jpeg IMG_5965.jpeg IMG_5967.jpeg
 
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