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- #21
Hello DaveHawk,
I have never heard of Damaris varnish before, where can it be purchased.
Have a great day,
ThomasT
Recipe for Linseed Oil and Beeswax
- Thread starter ThomasT
- Start date
Hello DaveHawk,
I have never heard of Damaris varnish before, where can it be purchased.
Have a great day,
ThomasT
Google Damar varnish Crystal's
Crazy were one pound bags at last forever
Crazy were one pound bags at last forever
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- #23
Hello DaveHawk,
OK found it no problem, I had googled the wrong spelling the first time. Found several articles describing how to make the mixture.
Thanks and have a great day,
ThomasT
Some explanation of Damar Varnish...
David makes his living restoring art work and antiques, he is studied in methods and materials long ago forgotten and/or unheard of by most Thomas. I believe I purchased the Damar on Amazon, it is relatively inexpensive, but having never gotten around to making a BLO/Wax paste, I've never used it.
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- #25
Hello rocky1,
Yes, in reading several of the sources that explained how to make the mixture some went into more detail about the main use. For now I think that I will stay with the BLO & Linseed, Mineral Oil & Linseed for "mixtures" and the Satin Clear for the hard finish. Once I start to make more assortment of items ( cups, bowls, etc ) then I might try more mixture combinations. Really appreciate all the info and help.
Have a great day,
ThomasT
BLO is one of the hardest finishes I restore. Wax is used to make BLO softer and knock down the sheen. BLO yellows much more them most finishes and each coat should be allowed to dry in the sun for the best results. Each coat should be allowed to dry before adding the next. I like to build up coats 50/50 thinner / BLO. 3 TO 4 COATS. Sanding between coats till surface is glass smooth . Then add a coat 25/75 % and then 100% 1 or 2 coats lightly sanding the 1st and 2 and coats . Then buffing with: comet using 100% gum turpentine to make a paste. Use a sanded (not random orbital) to buff or by hand. Finally waxing with a good furniture wax. Light application 2-4 coats till you get the desired finish.
Thomas... link to old thread of David's on the Damar, had it saved in Bookmarks.
https://woodbarter.com/threads/beeswax-finish.30648/
https://woodbarter.com/threads/beeswax-finish.30648/
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #28
Hello again DaveHawk,
Thank you for the good detailed information, this helps me a lot. I am realizing that turning a piece of wood is just the beginning
Have a great day,
ThomasT
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- #29
Hello rocky1,
First off thanks for the link, and wow what a beautiful table.
Have a great day,
ThomasT
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #30
Hello Everyone,
Brewed up my first batch BLO & Beeswax and made a paste. I used @Tom Smart advice and purchased a small electric Crock Pot to heat all the ingredients, and it was so simple and easy. The mixture that I used was 2 ounces of BOL by volume and 4 ounces of Beeswax by volume. I put BLO and Beeswax (shaved in small pieces) it the pot and turned the control on to High and in about 25 minutes is was all liquified. Then let it cool down a little bit and transferred to a small wide mouth jar. After it had solidified, I used a very small amount on a clean piece of red oak and real happy with they way it went on and the finished look. If I make any changes to this mixture later on, I will update this posting.
Thanks every body for you good advice, have a great day.
ThomasT
Brewed up my first batch BLO & Beeswax and made a paste. I used @Tom Smart advice and purchased a small electric Crock Pot to heat all the ingredients, and it was so simple and easy. The mixture that I used was 2 ounces of BOL by volume and 4 ounces of Beeswax by volume. I put BLO and Beeswax (shaved in small pieces) it the pot and turned the control on to High and in about 25 minutes is was all liquified. Then let it cool down a little bit and transferred to a small wide mouth jar. After it had solidified, I used a very small amount on a clean piece of red oak and real happy with they way it went on and the finished look. If I make any changes to this mixture later on, I will update this posting.
Thanks every body for you good advice, have a great day.
ThomasT
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #32
Hello Michael,
I am sorry but it was a small stripe and I burned it in my little wood heater (it has turned cold here in Texas). Here is a photo of a Deer Grunt that I just finished, it is Bubinga wood and I have applied only one coat of my "wax". After I get several more coats on it and then a good polish it will look really good.
Here is how I applied the wax, I put the jar in my microwave for 20-seconds and the very middle had melted. With the Call in the lathe and at 1300rpm, I applied the wax with a clean dry (old t-shirt) rag. Applying the wax wet it then solidified as I rub it in really hard and the color darkened several shades. I really like the feel, it is not tacky or sticky but a clean real smooth finish.
Hope this will help, have a great day.
ThomasT
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- #34
Hello Tony,
Found his site and saved it into my favorites. I will have to give that a try, really like the Shellac ingredient in the mixture.
Thanks for sharing and have a great day,
ThomasT
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #36
Hey again Michael,
It is store bought, by brand Klean Strip, manufactured by W. M. Barr & Co. out of Memphis, Tennessee.
I would apply another coat today but it is too cold in my shop, forgot to leave the heater on so it will be tomorrow before I can get that second coat on.
I am making another Duck Call and this time I am using some Purple Heart wood and will try the new wax on it and will add a photo when completed.
Have a great day,
ThomasT
I use it from time to time
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #38
Hello @Bean_counter ,
Here is a photo of two calls made out of Purple Heart wood. The one on the left (Crow Call) has 5-coats of Satin Clear and the one on the right (Duck Call) has just one coat of my Wax/Paste mixture. Unfortunately, to me, the photo does not pick up and show the real depth and softness of the Wax/Paste and of the wood. I think this will get even better after 3 to 4 more coats of the Wax/Paste on it. I did apply it different this time, rather than pre-heating in the microwave I used the same old rag that I have been using. I just rub the rag real hard in the Wax/Paste and then applied it on the Call with the lathe not running. After I got the Call completely covered really well, I then turned the lathe on at 1300rpm and rub all over the Call for about 10-minutes, loading the rag several more times. This is really easy and I love the final finish. Hope this will help you some.
Have a great day,
ThomasT
Here is a photo of two calls made out of Purple Heart wood. The one on the left (Crow Call) has 5-coats of Satin Clear and the one on the right (Duck Call) has just one coat of my Wax/Paste mixture. Unfortunately, to me, the photo does not pick up and show the real depth and softness of the Wax/Paste and of the wood. I think this will get even better after 3 to 4 more coats of the Wax/Paste on it. I did apply it different this time, rather than pre-heating in the microwave I used the same old rag that I have been using. I just rub the rag real hard in the Wax/Paste and then applied it on the Call with the lathe not running. After I got the Call completely covered really well, I then turned the lathe on at 1300rpm and rub all over the Call for about 10-minutes, loading the rag several more times. This is really easy and I love the final finish. Hope this will help you some.
Have a great day,
ThomasT
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #39
Hello Everyone,
Chances are real good that I am going over already plowed ground and all you "ole-timers" already have this knowledge and experience, but for this Newbie it is just another learning event.
OK to continue on with using the mixture of BLO & Beeswax aka Wax/Paste here is a photo of the Duck Call now with a second application. It has been 24-hours since the first application and I gave the Call a good buffing in the lathe before applying the second coat. At this point the second application has not been buffed, I thought I would let it set up for several hours before buffing. Thinking that the two applications of Paste would "gel" together a little better and then would buff out better.
Fellows I am open to any and all suggestion on better or different procedures. Right now, I sure like the color change in the Purple Heart wood and the feel of the finish and by reason it should improve with each additional coat. Also this process should give an extremely good protection on the Call in all kinds of weather conditions.
Have a great day,
ThomasT
Chances are real good that I am going over already plowed ground and all you "ole-timers" already have this knowledge and experience, but for this Newbie it is just another learning event.
OK to continue on with using the mixture of BLO & Beeswax aka Wax/Paste here is a photo of the Duck Call now with a second application. It has been 24-hours since the first application and I gave the Call a good buffing in the lathe before applying the second coat. At this point the second application has not been buffed, I thought I would let it set up for several hours before buffing. Thinking that the two applications of Paste would "gel" together a little better and then would buff out better.
Fellows I am open to any and all suggestion on better or different procedures. Right now, I sure like the color change in the Purple Heart wood and the feel of the finish and by reason it should improve with each additional coat. Also this process should give an extremely good protection on the Call in all kinds of weather conditions.
Have a great day,
ThomasT
I think it looks good for what it's worth. I don't make or use calls so I don't know what my opinion is worth. You know Purpleheart changes color as the sun hits it right, over time? Tony