Review of Polymerized Tung Oil from The Skin Boat Store

trc65

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I mentioned in the other thread on polymerized tung oil (PTO) that I use it on a majority of my turning projects except pens and a few other spindle projects. To date, I've only used PTO from Lee Valley, which is rather expensive at $51 per liter. Although expensive to buy, very little is used per bowl, a quart lasts me the better part of the year. However, money is money and I'm always looking for a deal.

A while back, someone at the AAW forum mentioned PTO from The Skin Boat Store, https://shop.skinboats.com/100-Pure-Tung-Oil-32oz-polymerized-t100.htm

The PTO they sell is $21 per quart and is un-diluted. Just got some today, so will post in this thread as I test it and see how it compares to the LV brand.

The oil from Skin Boat Store comes in a plastic wide mouth tub, so the first consideration is getting that transferred to some Stop Loss Bags so it won't all gel before it is used up. It comes un-diluted and will need a solvent added before you use it.

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I decided to try some of their citrus solvent and see how that compares to MS that Lee Valley uses (50% dilution). I have several bowls that are either unfinished, or have a single coat of LV oil and all of them are black Locust, so have good material for side by side testing.

I mixed up 2 - 20ml test samples of oil, one with citrus solvent and the other with naptha (my mineral spirits is in the shed, and I didn't want to hike out there and get it at midnight). Both were diluted 50%. First impression - you better like the smell of orange oil because it is strong smelling!

My usual method is to apply with a cotton cloth, and let the bowl sit for a minute or two before wiping excess off gently with white paper towels. Exception to this is with a first coat, I'll keep adding more oil for several minutes if the wood is absorbing it.

Consistency of the oil after dilution was very similar to that of LV, and seemed to wipe on the same. The big difference was how quickly the bowls with naptha became tacky, much too soon for my liking. The citrus solvent mix reacted much the same as the LV oil.

The test now is to see if this tung oil dries as quickly and has the same build/sheen as that from LV. More to come on that tomorrow.
 

larry C

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Interesting report.....I've never used PTO, as I've used pre cat lacquer on most of my turnings and have been very happy with the results. That being said, I'm always interested in easy to apply finishes that are durable and repairable......from everything that I've read PTO may have these attributes also.....
Larry
 

trc65

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The big difference with PTO and Waterlox is the additional resin in the Waterlox. They are both "in the wood" finishes that dont build a heavy film layer, and are easy to repair, but Waterlox will be more durable because of the resin.

I've never used Waterlox, but assume the application is similar to PTO, wipe on, let soak a short time and wipe off.

To my way of thinking, Waterlox fits in the category of Danish oils in that they all contain a drying oil, a resin, and a solvent. What sets Waterlox apart is that it uses tung oil instead of BLO or a soya oil.
 

trc65

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That being said, I'm always interested in easy to apply finishes that are durable and repairable......from everything that I've read PTO may have these attributes also.....
Larry

PTO is definitely easy to apply and repair, durability depends on the individuals definition. It's not a film forming finish, so won't stand up to abuse like a poly or pre-cat, but is so easy to repair. Simply buff with some 0000 steel wool and apply another coat.

You are not going to get a high gloss "showroom" finish with PTO, but can build to a gloss, and buffing afterwards also increases the gloss.
 

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Ok, 12 hours after application and it is not dry, so it definitely doesn't dry as quick as the LV oil.

I didn't think that the LV oil had any additional dryers added to it as the order page only lists 50% dilution with mineral spirits. However in the application PDF, it has a line that says "This product has no additives other than the thinners and driers needed to speed the drying process."

So, this oil from Skin Boats will not dry as fast as that from LV. The question now is how long it will take to dry, stay tuned......

Next experiment is to pull out my Japan Drier and see if I can get the Skin Boats oil to dry as fast as the LV oil, without congealing in the container.
 

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24 hours and the oil is still not dry. Waiting now for some more stop loss bags before I start experimenting with Japan drier.
 

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36 hours (roughly) and still not dry. Won't be back home till tomorrow night, so we will see then. My guess right now is its going to be 3 days before completely dry.
 

trc65

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Forgot to update this. 5 days to dry with the polymerized tung oil from the Skin Boat store.

Finally got more stop loss bags today, so when I get time, will experiment with adding Japan Drier to get dry times similar to that of Lee Valley's oil. Going to start with the one ounce per gallon rate and go from there.
 
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