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Stepping up my game and need advice!

Discussion in 'Turning Critique Forum' started by Diver Temple, May 11, 2019.

  1. Diver Temple

    Diver Temple Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Don't want to screw this away at the finish, yes pun intended!

    This burl wasn't id'd, I am guessing maple burl but if feels kind of light. Dried in a rough flat blank for about 17 years, so other than the humidity here in NW Florida, its pretty dry. I do want the burl grain to pop a bit, but the only finish I have used to date is Danish oil on a couple of bowls and CA on my pens. What would you recommend? Sanded to 800 on the lathe and 1000 on the bottom after cutting it away. I was thinking of using the polycrylic or staying with the Danish oil. I like the fairly light color but if your recommendation darkens it up a bit, I am not opposed to it. Trying to learn patience so slow is OK too. :coffeenews: MD.jpg MD2.jpg MD3.jpg MD1.jpg
     
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    Last edited: May 11, 2019
  2. duncsuss

    duncsuss Trying to turn a little better each day Full Member

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    It looks beautiful now, and with the right finish it will be stunning.

    Do you want a high-gloss finish? A satin finish? A matte finish?
     
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  3. Rocking RP

    Rocking RP Member Full Member

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    I'm a fan of Danish oil. For what it's worth.
     
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  4. Diver Temple

    Diver Temple Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    me too. I do like the way it brought out the grain on my last bowl. Just three coats and a buff. How do you normally apply it?

    Black Acacia 2X5 side1.jpg
     
  5. Diver Temple

    Diver Temple Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    I want a glossy-ish finish that brings out the grain a little more. Not all the way to CA or heavy like shellac.
     
  6. Steve in VA

    Steve in VA Member Full Member

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    Looks fantastic!

    Just a suggestion, but after Danish oil what about some shine juice?

    It's a simple mixture of equal parts BLO, DNA, and shellac. It's incredibly easy to apply and, in my opinion, just enough shine without looking overly glossy.
     
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    Last edited: May 11, 2019
  7. Diver Temple

    Diver Temple Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    That sounds simple enough. Do you just rub in or wet sand and wipe off? I am also trying to see how I can get a consistent finish into all the nooks and crannies. Thanks Steve.
    ~Mo
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2019
  8. Steve in VA

    Steve in VA Member Full Member

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    That's exactly why I suggested it. You put the initial coat on by wiping it on and allowing the mixture to seep into the cracks. Then put subsequent coats on with the lathe running to buff and get some "shine". The heat build up from the pressure you apply allows it to dry very fast, and you can build the finish up as much, or as little, as you like.

    Google "OB Shine Juice " and watch a few videos. There are a ton out there.

    If I were you, I'd try it out on something else first though just to make sure you like the finish.
     
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  9. Diver Temple

    Diver Temple Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Thanks again. I will try it on my next bowl. I already cut off the tenon and it so asymmetrical I think everything from here on out with this is by hand.
     
  10. duncsuss

    duncsuss Trying to turn a little better each day Full Member

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    Since you've cut off the tenon, I think you'll have to use something that doesn't rely on friction/heat to set the finish - so things like "Woodturners Finish" and Shine Juice will be difficult to apply.

    To get a medium-gloss finish, you can apply multiple thin coats of Danish oil, letting it cure completely (not just dry to the touch) between coats. Up here in the north-east, it can take as long as a week to cure - my test is to sniff it, and if I can still smell the odor it isn't cured yet. After the third or fourth, you'll start to see shiny patches as the oil is no longer being absorbed into the wood pores. Keep going, allowing it to cure then putting on another thin coat. Eventually it will be shiny all over, and at that point you can either take it to the buffing station or rub it by hand with one of those fine Scotch-brite pads (I don't remember if the white one or the purple one is the finer grit).

    The drawback of using buffing wheels with tripoli compound and white diamond compound is that it can be difficult to get out of the crevices in a burl and it can look ugly. To some extent you can avoid this by only using a very small amount of compound on the buffing wheel, but it can be a problem.
     
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  11. duncsuss

    duncsuss Trying to turn a little better each day Full Member

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    A much easier way to get a satin finish would be to use rattle-can lacquer -- a couple of base coats of gloss, then a final coat of satin might do it nicely. It's smelly but gives a beautiful finish.
     
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  12. barry richardson

    barry richardson Moderator Staff Member Global Moderator Full Member

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    My favorite finish these days is a couple coats of Danish oil or wipe on poly, lightly sand with 400 grit or steel wool, then Minwax semi gloss poly rattle can. I still use lacquer when I'm going for a high gloss, but it is more fussy and takes a long time to cure...
     
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  13. Bob Ireland

    Bob Ireland Member Full Member

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    An oil should "pop" the grain but won't give a high gloss finish (which in my opinion you really wouldn't want as the shine would distract from the grain pattern). As duncsuss suggested, many coats and allowing it to dry between coats is best. It's frustrating because the look of freshly applied oil is what I wish the finished piece would look like but that doesn't happen.
     
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  14. Diver Temple

    Diver Temple Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Agreed, wet oil looks nice on it. I am avoiding anything I have to try to buff out too aggressively, too many delicate pieces out on the edges that will grab. Using Danish oil, 2nd coat later today and a little wet sanding to remove the fuzz that came up last night. Sanded both directions to 800, but wood is never happy staying smooth. :taunt:
     
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    Last edited: May 12, 2019
  15. Diver Temple

    Diver Temple Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    It's getting there. two coats of DO with a wet sanding at 2000 grit. I need to make a much better studio to get consistent true white lighting without so much glare. :ponder:

    MD2CTS.jpg MD2CTS2.jpg MD2CTS1.jpg
     
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  16. Steve in VA

    Steve in VA Member Full Member

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    Can't wait to see it once you're finished; looks awesome thus far!
     
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  17. ripjack13

    ripjack13 ɹǝʇɹɐqpooʍ Staff Member Global Moderator Forum Moderator Full Member

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    Have you heard of truoil? It may darken it some, but it's a good finish if you have patience for doing multiple coats. You make it shine using multiple coats or do a nice matte finish with 0000 steel wool.
    I use it on gunstocks and grips. It's like boiled linseed oil, but with hardeners added to it.
     
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    Last edited: May 13, 2019
  18. Diver Temple

    Diver Temple Member Full Member Thread Starter

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    Thank you. I'll have to check it out. If I can apply it over Danish oil, I can use a little hardener. There are a couple of areas out on the edges that are week and I really don't want anything to ding it up over time. I will be adding coats over the rest of this week, so switching up is not a problem, just compatibility at this point.
     
  19. ripjack13

    ripjack13 ɹǝʇɹɐqpooʍ Staff Member Global Moderator Forum Moderator Full Member

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  20. SeanPEvans

    SeanPEvans Member Full Member

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    That’s beautiful!
     
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