Table saw outfeed tables

[woodtickgreg]

I added another board to the end to form a pocket for the legs to go in.

This will also give me a way to attach the legs and remain sturdy without adding any further bracing. There will be a full length cross stretchers in the pocket as well.

 

[woodtickgreg]

I'm thinking a router lift will go here eventually.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Had a little time before I left for work so I set up the morticing machine.

Drilling square holes is fun!

 

[Nubsnstubs]

Greg, nice set up you have. I wish mine was a dedicated machine rather than a drill press attachment. I now have 3 sets of attachments with 4 bits for each one.

In the last picture, I see what looks like the bit is leaving round bulges on the square hole. Drilling holes for what the machine is designed for is not an issue, but if you ever want to use the square hole as a feature, those bulges can and will be a distraction. I'll have to look around for a piece I did to show what I mean later today, if I still have it...... Jerry (in Tucson)

 

[woodtickgreg]

Greg,

In the last picture, I see what looks like the bit is leaving round bulges on the square hole. Drilling holes for what the machine is designed for is not an issue, but if you ever want to use the square hole as a feature, those bulges can and will be a distraction. I'll have to look around for a piece I did to show what I mean later today, if I still have it...... Jerry (in Tucson)

Yup Jerry it does, but it's minor. If I was doing a through mortice I would go a little undersized and finish it with a chisel or a file. But for plain old mortice and tennons this machine is the berries!

 

[woodtickgreg]

After I got the mortices done I drilled the mortice for the levelers.

Then bored the hole for the shaft.

And they sit nice and flush now.

And now the legs are done, just need to form the tennons on the cross stretchers.

Setting the blade height. I snuck up on the final dimension. It took 2 attempts to get it close.

Here you can see how my fence slides back to act as a stop for repetitive cuts without binding on the blade when using a miter gage. As I push through the cut it clears the fence before contacting the blade. This keeps all of my shoulders perfect.

Then a little work with the rabbit plane just enough to take the saw marks off and it fit nice and snug. One down and 3 to go.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Finally got some shop time and worked on the tennons for the legs.
Test fitting......

Dry fit.......

And glued up and in the clamps.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Not to much to show today but it was a job I was happy to get out of the way, sanding.
I got nice legs.

Everything is sanded to 80 grit with a rose. Top is to 220 to clean it so I get a good bond with the contact cement.

 

[Wildthings]

Yep your legs are looking good!!

 

[woodtickgreg]

Working on the legs again today. I rounded over all the edges and I got them test fit in the pocket on the top.

I was having trouble getting the legs in so I trimmed about 1/8" off each side where they fit into the pocket. This will also allow for wood movement.

It will only get a few screws right in the middle section to hold the legs in. This should allow for some wood movement too. No glue either.

Got 1 coat of wbp on, maybe 2 more.

When the finishing part is done I'll laminate the top with formica.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Today is laminate day for the right side table.
I sanded all the way around to remove the finish that ran over the edge. It would have left a ridge.

Spraying the contact cement on the laminate.

And on the plywood surface.

I place some sticks to hold the laminate off the surface so I can get it I to position.

In position and ready to pull the center stick.

I worked from the center out with a laminate J roller. Once it touches its stuck!

Then I installed the brackets for the levelers.

Just like the outfeed table.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Next it was time to trim the laminate.
Small dewalt trim router works great for this.

Then I sanded all the edges with some 220 on a block so the edges weren't so sharp.

Installed the legs.

Time to take the saw apart. Black mdf table has got to go.

Next I removed the fence rail so I could get at the screws.

Then I drilled 4 holes in my new saw cast iron table to mount the new table to.

Holes drilled.

Here's the old table sitting on the new table. And the spindly legs.

Getting it set in place to mark the holes to bolt it to the saw cast iron wing.

 

[woodtickgreg]

The bolts where really close to the plywood top after drilling the holes so I had to make some relief to clear the washer and nut.

Now there's room for the hardware.

And this is me fixing a major error. I used the leg dimension from the outfeed table. But that table sat on top of the legs, this table they sit inside the lags against the plywood. So I cut the legs to short. The fix was to glue and screw 2 blocks of scrap leg stock to the legs to bring it back to the correct height. Not a big deal, it will be plenty strong.

And I reinstalled the legs. If I didn't tell you about the mistake you'd never notice it. This is what happens when you don't work with plans and just go off the plans in your head.

Getting the table mounted. It's bolted to the saw but not the rails, I need to pick up some flat head countersunk screws.

This table will also add a lot of stability to the saw. It's heavy and will act as an anchor. My saw will never be moved once all of this is set up. I don't think I'm going to bolt the outfeed table to the saw, it's so heavy it doesn't move and the rubber leveling feet keep it from sliding too. This project is getting there, almost done with it.

 

[JerseyHighlander]

Looks great. Those have got to be some of the most serious levelers I've ever seen, outside of heavy machinery. Where'd you get them?

Going to make one suggestion. The formica on top is a completely impermeable surface. Leaving the underside uncovered/uncoated, it can absorb and release moisture that the top side now can't, causing the plywood deck to warp/cup, even with the skirting and supports. I'd recommend at least coating it with poly or something to even out between the top and bottom, so there isn't a tug of war going on every time the moisture changes in the room.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Looks great. Those have got to be some of the most serious levelers I've ever seen, outside of heavy machinery. Where'd you get them?

Going to make one suggestion. The formica on top is a completely impermeable surface. Leaving the underside uncovered/uncoated, it can absorb and release moisture that the top side now can't, causing the plywood deck to warp/cup, even with the skirting and supports. I'd recommend at least coating it with poly or something to even out between the top and bottom, so there isn't a tug of war going on every time the moisture changes in the room.

I got the levelers off Amazon, it's actually 2 parts, the levelers themselves and the mounting brackets.
Now as far as the top goes my last table was built very similar and it never moved, it's still flat to this day after 10 or 15 years, always in a basement shop. The new owner of my old saw has it now. I'm not too concerned about this top moving or cupping, rarely happens with plywood, more common in solid wood. And this is a high grade 7 layer hardwood plywood. But thanks for mentioning that.

 

[woodtickgreg]

I finally got some shop time to work on the outfeed tables.
I didn't like the way the right side table was sitting, it wasn't flush with the top so I needed to elongate the holes. So I unbolted it to do that and raised it up just enough to get the job done.

Not the prettiest hole but it's effective and no one will ever see it when it's bolted on.

I'm glad I took the time to get the top flush, so now its on to attaching the table to the rails.
Drilled the holes for the bolts.

Got some nice flat head countersunk bolts.

I clamped one side while drilling the holes.

Then I did the same thing on the back rail, got the bracket for the dust collection hose back on as well.

Next it was time to put the fence rail back on, got the bolts set near where they needed to go.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Now that the fence is back on I can use it to lay out for the miter slots.

Made the slots nice and wide so saw dust won't plug them up.

Then I made a router guide out of a piece of 1/4" tempered hard board and some plywood scraps. I just used CA glue to make it, quick and easy.
So here it is clamped on and ready to go.

I plowed it out in 4 passes.

It came out pretty good, it's about 1/2" deep

1 done and 1 to go.


Both done. Then I sanded all the edges with some 220.

Then I added this maple spacer to the old table bracket, this will keep the table the proper space away from the saw so it won't interfere with the fence.

A view of the spacer from the top.

And with the table right up against it.

The table is not attached to the saw, between its weight and the rubber leveling feet I don't think it's going to move. I can always put a couple screws in it later if I need to.

 

[DLJeffs]

Two demerits for unpretty holes, hidden or not. We expect perfection from you.

Edit: Plus two merit points for pretty miter slots.

 

[woodtickgreg]

Then I set the height on the outfeed table and made it equal plane to the saw.

All I need to do now is get some wax on the tables. I wax them because I use them as a multi purpose table for glue ups and finishing. Once you wax them they clean up easy.

I like the whit tops much better, they reflect the light nice. This is a great improvement for my new saw. This isn't the only way to make outfeed tables but it's how I did mine. I did this on the cheap. Only things I purchased was 1 sheet of 3/4" maple plywood, the formica and contact cement for the top, the leveling feet, and some screws and hardware. All the maple and walnut wood came from pallets. My shop has a saw again! With this set up I can cut plywood sheets and long boards by myself safely, and accurately and I don't have to worry about boards falling off the back of the saw or trying to support and catch them as the pass by the blade. I had a very similar set up on my old saw and I really liked it.
This part of the project is done!

 

[Nature Man]

Now that the fence is back on I can use it to lay out for the miter slots.
View attachment 214273
Made the slots nice and wide so saw dust won't plug them up.
View attachment 214274
Then I made a router guide out of a piece of 1/4" tempered hard board and some plywood scraps. I just used CA glue to make it, quick and easy.
So here it is clamped on and ready to go.
View attachment 214275
I plowed it out in 4 passes.
View attachment 214276
It came out pretty good, it's about 1/2" deep
View attachment 214277
1 done and 1 to go.

View attachment 214278
Both done. Then I sanded all the edges with some 220.
View attachment 214279
Then I added this maple spacer to the old table bracket, this will keep the table the proper space away from the saw so it won't interfere with the fence.
View attachment 214280
A view of the spacer from the top.
View attachment 214281
And with the table right up against it.
View attachment 214282
The table is not attached to the saw, between its weight and the rubber leveling feet I don't think it's going to move. I can always put a couple screws in it later if I need to.

Thanks so much for the very thorough tutorial! Two questions, first, what router bit did you use to make the miter slots on the outfeed table, and second, how did you attach the Maple spacer to the Table Saw? Thanks! Chuck