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Tenon and Tongue Slideboard

Nubsnstubs

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Here is my slideboard, @woodtickgreg and others. As simple to make as any other woodworking jig. This was made 10+ years ago for Tongue and Groove Shaker style doors with the center stile. It saved me a lot of time even though it was supposed to be a one time use tool. The first picture shows what could be construed as a top or bottom rail for blind grooves. You can also see it's not true at all on the blind portion. That is because I didn't have my adjusting screw in the right place. This piece I put the tongue on is for illustration only, and can also be used as reason to be more careful of what you are doing.
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The slide board. Nothing spectacular at all. Just 5 pieces of wood arranged to assist me in my work.
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Now it becomes spectacular. The piece of finished wood is the guide on how long the Tenons or Tongues are to be. The screw provides the accuracy of each cut. If the screw would have been in the vacant hole, the cuts in the first picture would all have been precise.
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The length of the T or T can only be the width of the dado set. When I made this, like I said earlier, it was a one time tool for 3/8 long tongues. But, as we all know, one timers don't normally get tossed. They become handy later if you still have it, so a slight mod will allow you to cut longer stuff. The birch ply left of the blade is just a piece of scrap for illustration, but the pice on the right side of the blade is a keeper as it's my stop for longer tenons. The first cut is done on the set up above, and then something is used to clear the fixed stop, this piece of birch for example. It's naied to keep it from moving or getting stuff behind it and making things out of square. The keeper is then nailed to the slide board bottom to the desired length. The screw will give the accuracy needed for longer stuff..
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You can see the keeper has been used a lot in the last 10 years. If you can read my note you can see I didn't adhere to it. I needed to cut some short miters once, so that's why it has the angle cut. The angle of the camera must be less than 45 degrees because the angle isn't seen.
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The angle is visible here. The next 2 pictures show a 3/4" long tenon, but with the blade set at different heights. I just did squares to show the slideboard and was not making anything in particular. The same thing for the top picture.
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................... Jerry (in Tucson)
 

woodtickgreg

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Pretty cool šŸ˜Ž basicly it's just a cross cut sled dedicated to a dado stack. I can see this being very easy to make and the stop could be made with an adjustment knob if you wanted to get fancy. What I like about this style is you don't have to clamp the stock down like in most jigs. And you can also make the cuts with the stock in the horizontal position rather than vertical which is safer. Imo. Thanks for posting this Jerry.
Now why didn't I think of this, lol. :ponder:
That's the beauty of the collective here at the wb.
 

DLJeffs

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I'd worry about sawing that fine adjustment screw if I had that sled. I think I'd figure out a way to switch that screw out for something that would go through my saw without making sparks and loud noises.
 

Nubsnstubs

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I'd worry about sawing that fine adjustment screw if I had that sled. I think I'd figure out a way to switch that screw out for something that would go through my saw without making sparks and loud noises.
Doug, thanks for your concern. I had those thoughts also. After thinking about that, reasoning set in. If the arbor has it's stationary flange on the right side, and the slideboard has no play, there won't be any reason to be concerned. You can use any thickness blade you choose. The flange will always index the blade at the same distance every time. It's possible the carbide thickness or blade set might be a little thicker or set differently from the blade you made the original set up with. If you think that might be the case, run the board up to the blade, slowly rotate it by hand at least a full turn to see if it will make contact. If it does, screw the screw in until the contact point disappears.

Now, if your blade wobbles you must compensate for that. or the screw is in a hole that is too loose that might allow it to unscrew, maybe it could become an issue. Also, if you arbor has it's flange on the left side, then you must always consider blade thickness when using this. You should notice that the screw does have a rub or hit spot. I did that at the beginning when I first made the board. I then backed off just enough to clear the screw. Of all the times I've used it, never have I touched the screw with the blades used.

When this board was first made, it was for 4/4 stock. I put the screw just above the center thickness of the tongue. The blade was never nearer the screw than say .030" or 1/32".

It's when I started using it for other things that the screw might be a problem. I made the Keeper block that gets nailed in at other locations for different lengths of T or T. If I'm going to make a thicker tongue, I make a thicker KEEPER stop and make sure the screw is centered on the T or T. the blade will never touch the screw unless you make a mistake........ .......... Jerry (in Tucson)
 

DLJeffs

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You're much better at setting up your cuts than I. 1/32"!! Shoot, if I get the blade within a half inch of my fence or jigs, etc. I just assume I'll hit it sooner or later and make myself a sacrificial spacer. I'm trying to work on that though.
 
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