I have never worked with Transtint, I assume it's water based. On a scrap piece, do what you normally do, sand with the last grit you used but only enough to knock the grain down. A lot of times, people will sand too much on this last step and it renders it useless. Then re-stain the piece. Tony
I don't know of any way to keep the grain from raising, but if you'll pre-raise it with DNA then lightly sand with your last grit or one finer, I think you'll have better luck. You may still need to sand lightly after the dye, but it shouldn't take much.
Also, I think going to a higher final grit helps with some wood.
I'm not sure about your tinting but removing the raised grain is easy. After you raise the grain, sand with a new piece of 320. Make sure you have a new piece. I sand once after raising it but some do it 2 or 3 times. Gary
anytime you apply any kind of liquid to wood, it will raise the grain,
the benefit of using DNA or Lacquer Thinners are that they evaporate and dry much more quickly
After staining (with TransTint & DNA) I use a scotchbrite pad instead of sandpaper,
it gives the same end result, without removing much of the top coat that I just applied,
and reduces the chances of having to re-stain in case I used too much pressure
I don't have a problem with alcohol based dyes raising the grain, but maybe cause it's so hot and dry here, it doesn't have a chance. But I mostly use Behlins', which they call NGR (non-grain raising) If you want a fool proof way to color your wood any color of the rainbow, use artist oils (not acrylics) get a tube of it from Michaels or any art store and, experiment, works like a champ. Better yet is if you know someone who is a painter, they usually have old and partial tubes they will give you... The only downside is it takes a couple of days to dry before you can final finish it...