Turning Cocobolo

[Bowlguy_in_PA]

What experience does everyone have on spindle turning Cocobolo?

My wand photo caught the eye of a manufacturer and asked me to run some handle samples for them. Could turn out to be a nice production run each month.

I've never turned it. Any feedback? Does is splinter?

Can you compare it to any of these woods? Cherry, Maple, Oak, Sapele, Walnut, Sycamore, Apple

 

[The100road]

It’s finishes great. But does attack my sinuses pretty good.

 

[Sprung]

It doesn't turn like any of the woods you asked about comparing it to, IMO. It's an oily wood. It turns well. I've liked turning woods in the dalbergia genus - Cocobolo, African Blackwood, Honduran Rosewood, Tulipwood, etc. They turn beautifully and polish up well - you can even buff it out to a nice sheen without any finish, just sand it to a high enough grit and buff it.

Alas, I can't turn them anymore as I'm now allergic to dalbergias.

 

[NeilYeag]

I don't turn but I love the stuff. But agree with Matt. I am really careful in handling and machining it. I suit up like a space man.

 

[Herb G.]

It doesn't turn like any of the woods you asked about comparing it to, IMO. It's an oily wood. It turns well.

I agree fully. Cocobolo is my favorite wood, hands down. It turns well & even better with a new carbide tip on a tool. It is a very dense & heavy wood. If you use steel tools, keep them sharp as you turn it.
You'll have to sharpen them several times while turning. I use carbide tipped tools, so I don't have to keep stopping & sharpening.
Make sure you use a decent dust mask, long sleeves, and good eye protection. A N95 or better dust mask is required, IMHO. Take off your turning clothes before leaving your shop. You do not want to track Cocobolo dust thru your house.
There are 2 types of turners when it comes to Cocobolo.
Those who are allergic to it, and those who will be.

 

[kweinert]

I'm still a 'will be' then as it doesn't bother me. I do wear protection when sanding of course, as I would anything I sand.

But as everyone else says, it turns great.

 

[Steve Smith]

If you aren't used turning it, then you may consider using scrapers until you get used to it. Super dense, hard woods (e.g. African blackwood) can be easier to turn using them. They take excellent detail and polish up very well. Also, it's best not to use oil based finishes on them.

 

[ironman123]

Nice handles Steve.

 

[phinds]

Cocobolo is a pleasure to turn and doesn't need a finish if you buff it up, BUT ... if you do use a finish you HAVE to start with a coat or two of DEWAXED shellac. Polyurethane, for example, simply will not adhere to most cocobolo but will easily to the shellac (which itself adheres very well to the oily woods).

 

[Steve Smith]

Cocobolo is a pleasure to turn and doesn't need a finish if you buff it up, BUT ... if you do use a finish you HAVE to start with a coat or two of DEWAXED shellac. Polyurethane, for example, simply will not adhere to most cocobolo but will easily to the shellac (which itself adheres very well to the oily woods).

You don't need shellac if you are starting with a solvent based finish. I almost exclusively use lacquer and never have an issue with finish quality. I expect it's not needed with water based finishes, but can't specifically recall if I used it on a project.

Also, I would highly recommend a finish to cocobolo if it is going to be handled. I've seen cocobolo pens turn completely black from finger oils.

 

[phinds]

You don't need shellac if you are starting with a solvent based finish. I almost exclusively use lacquer and never have an issue with finish quality. I expect it's not needed with water based finishes, but can't specifically recall if I used it on a project.

Good to know. Thanks.

Also, I would highly recommend a finish to cocobolo if it is going to be handled. I've seen cocobolo pens turn completely black from finger oils.

+1 on that, although simple exposure will, over time, turn it quite dark all by itself.

 

[rocky1]

Oil and beeswax finishes nice on cocobola as well. Depends on intended use how durable that might be. But the soft glow of an oil and wax finish always brings the natural beauty out in Coco.

 

[Herb G.]

You don't need shellac if you are starting with a solvent based finish. I almost exclusively use lacquer and never have an issue with finish quality. I expect it's not needed with water based finishes, but can't specifically recall if I used it on a project.
Also, I would highly recommend a finish to cocobolo if it is going to be handled. I've seen cocobolo pens turn completely black from finger oils.

I hate to disagree with you, but every lacquer I ever tried on any Cocobolo just beaded up like a freshly waxed car. Maybe you used something I don't know about.
I even used DNA, Naphtha, lacquer thinner, turpentine, and acetone too.
Last CB I finished, I just used beeswax & a friction method to polish it up a bit.

 

[Steve Smith]

@Herb G. Interesting difference. I never try to clean the surface with anything prior to application. I've used Deft wipe of and a couple different types of spray lacquer, but have not experienced what you describe. I used some wipe on Deft for this project. I like how it turned out.

 

[barry richardson]

What experience does everyone have on spindle turning Cocobolo?

My wand photo caught the eye of a manufacturer and asked me to run some handle samples for them. Could turn out to be a nice production run each month.

I've never turned it. Any feedback? Does is splinter?

Can you compare it to any of these woods? Cherry, Maple, Oak, Sapele, Walnut, Sycamore, Apple

Coco is pretty but expensive, and if your making lots of production spindle stuff it could add up pretty quickly, hard maple turns great, sands and finishes easy and is way cheaper, buy maybe you have a big stash of Coco

 

[Steve Smith]

https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-finishes-works/

 

[Patrude]

It's beautiful wood, holds detail extremely well and turns nicely. Toxic though. Suit up well, long sleeves, face mask and ventilation are really necessary. If you have a Trend air shield use it

 

[Arn213]

Guitar fingerboards out of Coco is typically left unfinished because it is very oily- some luthiers will either just use multiple grit micromesh to get a high polish, some just use a buffing wheel. You do get a lot of traction on the fingerboards overtime and you will get maybe shadows under the strings or lighter coloration on areas being underplayed.

For guitar backs and sides Martin specifically uses “ICA Lacquer Complete / Rosewood Filler (Cocobolo)”.

 

[barry richardson]

https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-finishes-works/

That's a great article Steve, I've never had any problems with lacquer on Coco or any other exotic, BTW I ended up ordering the wood hardness poster mentioned on the link