Uses for long walnut crotch feathers?

[Karl_TN]

Helped a friend mill a black walnut log using my Alaska chainsaw mill last night. The crotch feather on this log is around 40" long. Hoping to get two more boards like this one.

What would you do with crotch feathers this long beside making a table?

Thus board is around 6/4 thick.

 

[Arn213]

A gallery bench- a long one, that is book-matched length wise. Long harvest table.

 

[trc65]

Upright for a short bookcase, especially if you have a bookmarked piece for the other side. Headboard/footboard for a bed. Seat for a chair. Wall hanging, just to show off the figure. If it's too wide for wall hanging, cut the width down and carve or sand a faux natural edge. Hang it horizontally and add pegs for a coat rack.

 

[Arn213]

There is another detail technique for slabs like this which is called a “waterfall fall away”. This surface top will be 36” a.f.f. If I was doing it I would take the other book-match panel by cross cutting each end (beveled). So you basically continuing the grain sequence by using the cut panel so it is continuous, but they act like legs for either ends. This happens at both ends. There usually is a base cabinet or some kind of pedestal with a stretcher in the middle.

 

[2feathers Creative Making]

I have seen some awesome cabinet doors out of those. On a tall cabinet, like a wet bar/liquor cabinet

 

[barry richardson]

I agree with Frank, bookmatched, it would make an awesome pair of cabinet doors..

 

[vegas urban lumber]

it's only good for shipping to a desert climate

 

[Nature Man]

Some really sweet lumber! Chuck

 

[DLJeffs]

Rifle stock? Pool cue? Walking stick? Fire place mantel? Head board?

 

[Karl_TN]

Thanks for sharing all the great ideas. Now he just needs to find someone with a big planer and/or drum sander when it’s dry. Should the crotch figure be coated with any kind of sealant (I.e. anchor seal) while drying?

 

[Mike1950]

Thanks for sharing all the great ideas. Now he just needs to find someone with a big planer and/or drum sander when it’s dry. Should the crotch figure be coated with any kind of sealant (I.e. anchor seal) while drying?

has a tendency to check- end grain on a flat grained surface-if that makes sense. retard the drying with AS and store in a cool dry dark place and forget it.
Lots of good Ideas. I did a couple coved boxes with crotch going around. Maybe my favorite walnut figure... VERY NICE piece

 

[2feathers Creative Making]

has a tendency to check- end grain on a flat grained surface-if that makes sense. retard the drying with AS and store in a cool dry dark place and forget it.
Lots of good Ideas. I did a couple coved boxes with crotch going around. Maybe my favorite walnut figure... VERY NICE piece

Same experience with checking. That is a BIG box...

 

[djg]

Thanks for sharing all the great ideas. Now he just needs to find someone with a big planer and/or drum sander when it’s dry. Should the crotch figure be coated with any kind of sealant (I.e. anchor seal) while drying?

Real nice. I read somewhere here on WB that figure should be sealed during AD. Also watch your direction of planing when dry to prevent tear out. Sanding to final thickness with 60 grit would be much better.

 

[2feathers Creative Making]

Drum sanders are at the cabinet shops. Some will run this for you at an hourly rate. Others have a per board rate

 

[Arn213]

I would stray away from using those as solid wood for cabinet application, especially on long doors like on armoires. They will cup, twist and will check and crack. That is the main reason why you see veneer application only on period furniture like dining tables, dressers, armoires, other case goods and interior paneling out of crotch wood (mahogany mostly).

 

[Mike1950]

Thanks for sharing all the great ideas. Now he just needs to find someone with a big planer and/or drum sander when it’s dry. Should the crotch figure be coated with any kind of sealant (I.e. anchor seal) while drying?

and if he plans to resaw, do it now. it will dry faster.

 

[Karl_TN]

and if he plans to resaw, do it now. it will dry faster.

We have no way to resaw something this wide without using my chainsaw mill again which would cut a very large kerf in the 6/4 board. Sure would be nice to have a bandsaw mill for cutting something like this, but I haven’t convinced my wife on letting me buy one of those yet. For now, I might just offer to put some of the walnut boards in my homemade kiln if I get to keep one for all my trouble.

 

[Mike1950]

We have no way to resaw something this wide without using my chainsaw mill again which would cut a very large kerf in the 6/4 board. Sure would be nice to have a bandsaw mill for cutting something like this, but I haven’t convinced my wife on letting me buy one of those yet. For now, I might just offer to put some of the walnut boards in my homemade kiln if I get to keep one for all my trouble.

I would not put in kiln till at 20%.

 

[rob3232]

Karl, I am a bad procrastinator. This piece is ready to hang as a wall hanging. It’s looked like this for two years. Just need to add a hanger on the back lol.
Like others have said and I m sure you know let it dry slowly. Good luck bud!

 

[2feathers Creative Making]

When run as cabinet doors I have always seen solid wood with its checks filled with epoxy and then top bottom and sides coated with epoxy. At 6/4 you are looking at probably 2 years air drying with the last 6 months in the house ( under the bed) because of that crotch figure. If you AS it , then maybe 3 years. Your best off following @Mike1950 instructions, I believe he has the more years of experience in this. I am fresh on the furniture part of this stuff.