Walnut bowl -

[JD1137]

This is a bowl from the class I did with professional turner Matt Monaco last weekend.

Matt wanted to show us how to cut, not scrape, a heavy undercut rim.

I can vouch he can start sanding his bowls with 320 grit (maybe 400) sandpaper. He was a production turner for a number of years and his tool control is out of this world. Most of us couldn’t find any tear-out on his turnings.

Long story short, he made a believer out of me on using a micro-bevel, maybe 1/8”, sharpened at 60 degrees. He gets all the secondary bevel steel out out of the way

This is about 8” x 3”. Finished with Walnut Oil.

 

[DLJeffs]

Saturate that with protective oil and it makes a perfect medium size salad bowl for two - four people. Nice!

 

[Nature Man]

Beautiful bowl! Please tell us a bit more about the micro bevel. Chuck

 

[Mike Hill]

Very nice. I do like the rim!!

 

[trc65]

Elegant! Don't know what else to say, I love it!

 

[JD1137]

Beautiful bowl! Please tell us a bit more about the micro bevel. Chuck

Chuck - attaching a photo of the micro-bevel. About 1/8” wide and 60 degree angle. The secondary portion is all ground back out of the way.

You just float the micro-bevel when turning the bowl. Works out well from the rim all the way into the bottom.

 

[JD1137]

Beautiful bowl! Please tell us a bit more about the micro bevel. Chuck

Chuck - attaching a photo of the micro-bevel. About 1/8” wide and 60 degree angle. The secondary portion is all ground back out of the way.

You just float the micro-bevel when turning the bowl. Works out well from the rim all the way into the bottom.

View attachment 270054View attachment 270055

 

[Jonkou]

Do something similar for reaching to the bottom of umekes, 70 degree bevel.

 

[pvechart]

Beautiful bowl John. Did you use the same bowl gouge on the outside of the bowl?

 

[JD1137]

Yes, that grind works on both the inside and outside of the bowl.

I have traditionally used a 55-60 degree grind on my bowl gouges. However, I always used swept back wings and had a somewhat medium size bevel in addition to grinding the secondary bevel.

This newer grind I’m showing has a very minimal “micro-bevel” that does the cutting and works well inside the bowl from rim to bottom.

 

[JD1137]

Do something similar for reaching to the bottom of umekes, 70 degree bevel.

View attachment 270086View attachment 270087

Somewhat similar John. The biggest difference is the micro-bevel I’m using, as the cutting edge, is only about 1/8” wide.

Just the opposite on the grind you are showing. Your secondary bevel looks to be about 1/8” and your primary bevel is much wider.

 

[Karl_TN]

How are you grinding to get the micro bevel? By hand or using something to move the tool closer to the grinding wheel to change the angle steeper?

 

[JD1137]

How are you grinding to get the micro bevel? By hand or using something to move the tool closer to the grinding wheel to change the angle steeper?

Karl - by hand. Set the platform to 60 degrees. You do the wings first and swing into the nose. So, both wings and nose are 60 degrees.
Then work the secondary bevel back away from the 60 degrees grind to leave about 1/8” bevel to ride on.
Took a pic , but kinda hard to photograph.

As a side note, I’ve never used the Stuart Batty 40/40, but I’m thinking this is somewhat the same concept, but the 60 degree grind can go from rim to the bottom, where the 40 degree is too severe of an angle to get into the bottom (on most bowls).

I still have the swept back wings on my other gouges for wood removal. The micro-bevel takes very fine/finishing cuts.

 

[Steelart99]

Man, I'm gonna have to try that!

 

[duncsuss]

As a side note, I’ve never used the Stuart Batty 40/40, but I’m thinking this is somewhat the same concept, but the 60 degree grind can go from rim to the bottom, where the 40 degree is too severe of an angle to get into the bottom (on most bowls).

I use Stuart Batty's grind, and you are correct there are times I have to use a different tool to work the bottom of some bowls (it depends on the form, of course).

The advantage of 40/40 is that the included angle is less than 90. When you push cut, the nose tip cuts first, and the wing (which has a straight edge) follows close behind cutting a wide ribbon. The effect is like a hand-plane with a scoring edge that keeps the blade from tearing out at the edge of the ribbon. With an included angle greater than 90, the wing is going to cut before the nose, so the action is different.

I haven't tried 60/60 so I can't say how they compare in use. Matt is coming to give a demo to my turning club in April, I'll be paying close attention and if I get a chance I'll talk with him about the differences.

 

[JD1137]

I use Stuart Batty's grind, and you are correct there are times I have to use a different tool to work the bottom of some bowls (it depends on the form, of course).

The advantage of 40/40 is that the included angle is less than 90. When you push cut, the nose tip cuts first, and the wing (which has a straight edge) follows close behind cutting a wide ribbon. The effect is like a hand-plane with a scoring edge that keeps the blade from tearing out at the edge of the ribbon. With an included angle greater than 90, the wing is going to cut before the nose, so the action is different.

I haven't tried 60/60 so I can't say how they compare in use. Matt is coming to give a demo to my turning club in April, I'll be paying close attention and if I get a chance I'll talk with him about the differences.

Yea - if you get a chance, please do ask about it. I'm curious too.

Another eye-opener (don't think I mentioned yet) is Matt sharpens everything (skews and gouges) on an 80 grit stone wheel. That was kind of an eye opener too.