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anyone near reno nevada, nice bandsaw on auction

That's the biggest stop button I've ever seen. Sure does make it very easy to hit the stop button with a knee after cutting your hand.
 
Karl_TN said:
That's the biggest stop button I've ever seen. Sure does make it very easy to hit the stop button with a knee after cutting your hand.
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I actually think that there’s a guy here in Europe working on making an automatic stop system similar to the sawstop tablesaws.
 
probably big so you can keep your hands on piece, hit it with knee. all 3 of my saws have foot brake. which shuts off saw. almost never do I use off button.
 
daniscool said:
I actually think that there’s a guy here in Europe working on making an automatic stop system similar to the sawstop tablesaws.
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one of the safest tools in shop. establish in your mind a no go zone for your fingers, if you have to get a red felt tip pen, circle 6" in diameter. use pre made push stick or whatever in circle.
Round on BS- probably most dangerous action on BS. saw stop will not help here. Nor on teeter totter piece of wood.
Good habits are formed by repetition and realizing if you do not follow the rules, you risk sacrificing digits or worse.
safety features can make folks complacent or over confident on safe habits- Bad idea.
PS- I have no such circle on my saws but I do have them in my mind-always!!
A little story of someone who was a member- First day- 24" Grizzly bandsaw. We will call him "C" . He unpacked set up saw, son helped him. Got it going son went in for lunch, but C wanted to test. It was cutting great, but C was lacking basic safety skills. cutting a weird shaped cap curve down. VERY BAD IDEA!!! C, a big guy knew he could handle the saw. Cap turn a mite to side , instantly bound blade which instantly brought front of cap- teeter totter - down which brought back of cap up. Now C not knowing this was a possibility was too close and leaning into saw. Back to being strong enough to stop it, this happens so fast you only get to think of the o of oh sh!t out before you realize 5 hp is more than 1 human power. His son came back from lunch, saw running and C just starting to wake up.I have had this happen once - scares crap out of you- but I was back from saw, it flipped up and bound in guide- lucky it was only superficial guide damaged and a pair of undies...
DO NOT just depend on safety features- learn good habits- they work when safety features are shut off.
 
daniscool said:
I actually think that there’s a guy here in Europe working on making an automatic stop system similar to the sawstop tablesaws.
Click to expand...
Bring money- TS usually gets used when dressed lumber is used. Chances of hidden steel or moisture are slim. 6' Big leaf burl - green- and staying that way until cut, grew in some ones back yard, chance of foreign objects -probably 80%. So BS sawstop is useless. 50% of what I cut on BS is green. o you cannot use it. TS and BS are much different machines.
 
Mike1950 said:
Bring money- TS usually gets used when dressed lumber is used. Chances of hidden steel or moisture are slim. 6' Big leaf burl - green- and staying that way until cut, grew in some ones back yard, chance of foreign objects -probably 80%. So BS sawstop is useless. 50% of what I cut on BS is green. o you cannot use it. TS and BS are much different machines.
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Yeah. Good point. I would still rather have an automatic brake though. I mainly use my bandsaw for resawing. I don’t use the lathe so much that I saw wood into rounds. I mainly just cut off the corners on the saw.

I also don’t really use green wood for turning. Anything green is carved up into chips!
 
daniscool said:
Yeah. Good point. I would still rather have an automatic brake though. I mainly use my bandsaw for resawing. I don’t use the lathe so much that I saw wood into rounds. I mainly just cut off the corners on the saw.

I also don’t really use green wood for turning. Anything green is carved up into chips!
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I read that over 50% of accidents on bandsaw are after it has been shut off and winding down. I can believe that. Especially a heavy wheel saw.
Conclusion: I have been responsible enough to retain all parts of all digits.
2. I am by know means responsible enough to remember to shut it off on marginal wood. Would cost fortune in blown parts.
 
daniscool said:
Yeah. Good point. I would still rather have an automatic brake though. I mainly use my bandsaw for resawing. I don’t use the lathe so much that I saw wood into rounds. I mainly just cut off the corners on the saw.

I also don’t really use green wood for turning. Anything green is carved up into chips!
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I think we need to define auto brake. Auto brake to me is you hit button or brake motor brake stops saw. Not saw stop tech.
 
I really hate agreeing with Mike when he's grumpy and on the verge of a rant - I just feel like I'm depriving the entire forum. Nonetheless, I agree. I have (and love) my SawStop TS and if I ever have to buy another TS it will have SS or similar technology. The speed and power with which things happen on a table saw make it worth the spend amd the periodic hassle of an extra button push to enable cutting green wood or other conductive material. But bandsaws, to me, are much more predictable and a little care and attention can eliminate many of the risks.

I just looked up the statistics - and there are 10x as many table saw injuries as bandsaw injuries requiring a visit to the ER each year.

My biggest fears with a bandsaw are 1) after it is off, but not stopped - so I just won't leave the saw until it is stopped to prevent my returning (or someone else approaching) it and not recognizing it; and 2) having a blade snap and attack me. Re#2, I just have to have faith in the cabinet build and use it as designed. Re#1, I would prefer a saw with a break to slow the wheels more quickly after shut-down but I have adopted a safe practice that only costs a few seconds.
 
SENC said:
I really hate agreeing with Mike when he's grumpy and on the verge of a rant - I just feel like I'm depriving the entire forum. Nonetheless, I agree. I have (and love) my SawStop TS and if I ever have to buy another TS it will have SS or similar technology. The speed and power with which things happen on a table saw make it worth the spend amd the periodic hassle of an extra button push to enable cutting green wood or other conductive material. But bandsaws, to me, are much more predictable and a little care and attention can eliminate many of the risks.

I just looked up the statistics - and there are 10x as many table saw injuries as bandsaw injuries requiring a visit to the ER each year.

My biggest fears with a bandsaw are 1) after it is off, but not stopped - so I just won't leave the saw until it is stopped to prevent my returning (or someone else approaching) it and not recognizing it; and 2) having a blade snap and attack me. Re#2, I just have to have faith in the cabinet build and use it as designed. Re#1, I would prefer a saw with a break to slow the wheels more quickly after shut-down but I have adopted a safe practice that only costs a few seconds.
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Yeah I understand. I just really like my fingers. I’m willing to pay a whole new bandsaw to save a finger. Expensive but to me it is worth it.

I believe harvey has a bandsaw that stops moving within seconds of hitting the stop button. Anyway, there are more TS users than there are Bandsaw (I’m not going to make that one an acronym) users.

You have all made good points and you have all proved that knowledge of safety precautions is important, yet I still think that the guy working on sawstop tech for the bandsaw will make a lot of money.
I have never had a blade snap on me because they get swapped quite often due to broken teeth. Also I use my guides to get as close to the wood as I can which makes me feel safer.

Anyway, thank you all for your very detailed input.
 
SENC said:
I really hate agreeing with Mike when he's grumpy and on the verge of a rant - I just feel like I'm depriving the entire forum. Nonetheless, I agree. I have (and love) my SawStop TS and if I ever have to buy another TS it will have SS or similar technology. The speed and power with which things happen on a table saw make it worth the spend amd the periodic hassle of an extra button push to enable cutting green wood or other conductive material. But bandsaws, to me, are much more predictable and a little care and attention can eliminate many of the risks.

I just looked up the statistics - and there are 10x as many table saw injuries as bandsaw injuries requiring a visit to the ER each year.

My biggest fears with a bandsaw are 1) after it is off, but not stopped - so I just won't leave the saw until it is stopped to prevent my returning (or someone else approaching) it and not recognizing it; and 2) having a blade snap and attack me. Re#2, I just have to have faith in the cabinet build and use it as designed. Re#1, I would prefer a saw with a break to slow the wheels more quickly after shut-down but I have adopted a safe practice that only costs a few seconds.
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TS vs BS injuries. Your logic works- 7-800,000 TS purchased yearly in US 170,000 BS- BS took some math so EST. they report BS as gross $ not units sold.
1. your solution same as my except i speed wind down up with brake. Both hands stay on piece and foot does the work. 2. this was a real danger in old days but when blade breaks unless it catches on something there is very little energy in blade- it is in mass of wheel. Usually blades stops immediately, but top wheel spins - sometimes for a long time. I buy blades a dozen at a time.bigger the blade-more mass -more energy. I have had 2 1.25 carbide tipped break. enough energy in that blade to accordian the blade. ugly but it stays inside. but think about cutting and taking out in 12' pieces.
 
Mike1950 said:
TS vs BS injuries. Your logic works- 7-800,000 TS purchased yearly in US 170,000 BS- BS took some math so EST. they report BS as gross $ not units sold.
1. your solution same as my except i speed wind down up with brake. Both hands stay on piece and foot does the work. 2. this was a real danger in old days but when blade breaks unless it catches on something there is very little energy in blade- it is in mass of wheel. Usually blades stops immediately, but top wheel spins - sometimes for a long time. I buy blades a dozen at a time.bigger the blade-more mass -more energy. I have had 2 1.25 carbide tipped break. enough energy in that blade to accordian the blade. ugly but it stays inside. but think about cutting and taking out in 12' pieces.
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@SENC as you predicted. He has gone over the verge and has started his rant.

@Mike1950 the thing about the blade breaking makes sense. I guess modern steel is just better.
 
daniscool said:
Yeah I understand. I just really like my fingers. I’m willing to pay a whole new bandsaw to save a finger. Expensive but to me it is worth it.

I believe harvey has a bandsaw that stops moving within seconds of hitting the stop button. Anyway, there are more TS users than there are Bandsaw (I’m not going to make that one an acronym) users.

You have all made good points and you have all proved that knowledge of safety precautions is important, yet I still think that the guy working on sawstop tech for the bandsaw will make a lot of money.
I have never had a blade snap on me because they get swapped quite often due to broken teeth. Also I use my guides to get as close to the wood as I can which makes me feel safer.

Anyway, thank you all for your very detailed input.
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hmm- I have never broken teeth. Change often- dull blades do a crap job and are dangerous. I probably go through 8-10 blades a month. standard 1 out of 15 break. Now I had to substitute 3 tpI for 2 tpi and that configuration broke 10 out of 12 blades on big saw 750 lbs 167' blade- made the saw hop..... That saw cuts up to 19" resaw. it works hard.

Motor brake. Grizz has had motor brake on 17" extreme, 21 inch and 19" extreme as an option. Motor brake and saw stop are no way the same.
Motor reverses when shut off and stops in 2 or 3 seconds. Now I can stop with foot brake in 4 or 5 seconds. I was all for this tech until I thought about it. Mass vs motor. 2 50lb wheels driven by 1700 rpm motor stopping on dime. makes me think of sticking stick in bike wheel to see what happens- it stops but at a cost. Mass vs motor convinced this old guy to go low tech- a brake. My friend bought 5hp 17". he loved it until it puked a $1000 motor, got it rebuilt for $450 and it puked in a year. he bought a 18" PM.
Saw- stop on bandsaw aint quite the same as on TS. you have mass of blade and motor to stop. and a very compact unit with very small stiff blade. on band saw you have to stop maybe 10 times the mass with a blade you can fold with fingers.
i recommend all the safety features that make logical sense. But most important safety tool beside your brain is Dust collector - best health saving bang for your buck. But back to brain- learn safe habits-rules-stick by them= your best safety.
Started swinging an axe at 6-69 years ago- luckily my Gramps insisted on safe habits. I listened-my uncle did not- the scars and missing parts from foreign steel tells the story- I have none, John he was not near as "lucky".
I think rules in Europe vs USA on tools are much different.
 
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I do not know if steel is better but saws used to be wide open no guards. putting blade in cage was good idea.
 
I do not know if steel is better but saws used to be wide open no guards. putting blade in cage was good idea.
and if you think about it- TS is blade to steel-it is grounded. BS- blade rides on rubber- flesh sensing tech somehow has to attach to blade. and transfer to stop. It will not be simple.
 
I never got to price- pretty fancy. Computer- yikes- take the simple BS and make it electronic and technical. who do you get to work on it. My little 19" is down right now- started vibrating- bad belt- only 15 years and a couple hundred blades- what is world coming to...:yipee:
13mm and a 6mm allen wrench and she is apart. belt coming. maybe 30 minutes to take down- It will go back together quicker- I know how it works now.
I fear machines will get so complicated- bandsaw is very simple concept- same for 100 years-at least.
My big 19" has the electric guide-up and down. It really helps with shoulder- it does not like the reach out and up and cranking motion.
But it comes with initial price and more to maintain- wires in a box with blades flailing around. I have had no trouble in 5 years but I have added wire protection.
Electronics in a saw that spends at least 50% of time cutting wet wood, sounds dicey. But it sure is pretty.
 
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