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Box advice

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #21
DLJeffs said:
Beautiful box - love the cocobolo and continuous grain design. The handle is cool too. Here's one thing that I use that really helped my joints. My Dad had this clamp - it's four threaded rods with 90 degree aluminum brackets. I don't know exactly what it's called. Made by a company called Hargraves.

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Another helpful clamp is a strap clamp with brackets.
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Cool clamp, wouldn't be too hard to make with my little milling machine. Maybe a future project!
 
SENC said:
Cool clamp, wouldn't be too hard to make with my little milling machine. Maybe a future project!
Click to expand...
I thought about that. Actually wouldn't need a mill if you could find some aluminum bar stock in that 90 degree L shape. Just cut off short lengths, drill holes in one leg that allow the rod to slide back and forth, and in the other leg drill and tap a hole to match the threaded rod. Then just get four knobs or big wing nuts that match the rods and you'd have it. I haven't looked but I bet Grainger or someone has aluminum bar stock . Just needs to be big enough for the holes and threads.
 
Very, very well done Henry, even if this is the first time you have done flat work. I appreciate the fact that you did a proto-type before you put the real good wood and figure out where you can make adjustments. I also appreciate in the way you took a whole plank in order to have a continuous wrap around through the entire box! That is the way do it in my book. Lastly- glad you went with a miter construction in this specific instance as in order not to disrupt the continuous grain flow!

The only 4% I would have preferred as a design detail is to the inside corner miter joints is to have the corner angled trim to about 1:4 of the mitered angle so it makes an inside corner. You can also do a soft bevel. That inside corner creates a softer corner, less bruising if it gets bumped and it will not be as obvious when the wood expands at the corner with temps and humidity changes. There is also another alternative which is a “blind mitered corner”, where the honest joinery occurs inside the box and maintaining a clear mitered outer presence.

This is also a good base point for a variation like a custom tool box- with changes in order to accommodate the tools you want to put in the tool box.
 
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Nice work. You took on tall miters to start with. Challenging. I use cheap little inside corner clamps to keep square. You need 8.then clamp the crap out of it.
But the real trick is getting meters cut straight and it seems you have that figured out.
 
SENC said:
I've mentioned here before I want to start learning some flat work, and I also have wanted to make a box for some of my callmaking supplies - so thought I'd put the 2 together. I have a design in mind and some cocobolo I'm thinking of resawing and planing for it, but decided a mockup of the basic dimensions would be wise both to test dimensions to be sure they'll fit my needs and to get a little practice.

I'd originally thought I'd use this opportunity to also learn dovetails, but decided against it after changing the functional design a bit. As you'll see, the model uses mitered joints with strength coming from a couple internal "shelves" that are set in dados.

This isn't the final design but a mockup of the basic shape and dimensions - but I'd appreciate any feedback, comments, or advice on construction. I assume I'll want to add some splines to strengthen the miters, whether across the joint or down it? Planning to use 3/8" thick wood. Thanks for any guidance!

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My best advice would be to buy one from Walmart
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #29
Arn213 said:
Very, very well done Henry, even if this is the first time you have done flat work. I appreciate the fact that you did a proto-type before you put the real good wood and figure out where you can make adjustments. I also appreciate in the way you took a whole plank in order to have a continuous wrap around through the entire box! That is the way do it in my book. Lastly- glad you went with a miter construction in this specific instance as in order not to disrupt the continuous grain flow!

The only 4% I would have preferred as a design detail is to the inside corner miter joints is to have the corner angled trim to about 1:4 of the mitered angle so it makes an inside corner. You can also do a soft bevel. That inside corner creates a softer corner, less bruising if it gets bumped and it will not be as obvious when the wood expands at the corner with temps and humidity changes. There is also another alternative which is a “blind mitered corner”, where the honest joinery occurs inside the box and maintaining a clear mitered outer presence.

This is also a good base point for a variation like a custom tool box- with changes in order to accommodate the tools you want to put in the tool box.
Click to expand...
Thanks Arn, I really appreciate your thoughts on how to improve it. I googled blind mitered corner, and can see there is a real rabbit trail I could go down learning joinery!

To your last point, like many here I suspect, I have accumulated a variety of tools and bits over the years - some with broad application and others with very specific application. Where a traditional toolbox/cart and general storage have largely met my needs over the years, a lot of the limited use stuff now gets lost or forgotten amongst other things. So, like this little box dedicated to tools and supplies for finishing call inserts, I'm beginning to think through things I can organize by job type and suspect that will provide some additional box practice (over time).
 
I have made probably 100+ coved boxes. All with mitered corners. Some with splines some not. Never sized but definitely makes sense.
A good joint will last. I have not heard of one failing. My rejects turn into junk boxes and some have bounced across concrete floor. My negligence or clumsiness- take yer pick has dinged them but none came apart.
Gluing is an art in itself. Too much, what a mess, too little and weak joint. Too much clamp pressure a big no.
Clamping 3/4-5/8 × 5" box sides, gives very little room for error. Absolutely no flex like thinner wood. I have found that with thick sides it has to be almost perfect. I do miter on my lowly 14" dewalt sliding miter saw. Bought in 2004 for cutting cultured trim pieces. I truly believe this was abuse...
I have stack of thin wood pieces or cards to shim saw for minor adjustments. Cut one box, assemble dry on TS. If good put in go stack. Minor deviation correct with cards. Box gets a bit smaller. Major deviations, smaller yet.
I have thought of inside splines but love the aromatic cedar for top tray to slide on. Again mitered. Those are friction fit.
I think if you can master a box (obviously you can) you have the skill to make a desk, dresser, buffet or... they are all same boxes inside bigger boxes.
Very nice work and your results are outstanding.
I get the the test box, but as a contractor you hated getting second chance, meant you screwed up first time and lost your butt.
 
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Mike1950 said:
I have made probably 100+ coved boxes. All with mitered corners. Some with splines some not. Never sized but definitely makes sense.
A good joint will last. I have not heard of one failing. My rejects turn into junk boxes and some have bounced across concrete floor. My negligence or clumsiness- take yer pick has dinged them but none came apart.
Gluing is an art in itself. Too much, what a mess, too little and weak joint. Too much clamp pressure a big no.
Clamping 3/4-5/8 × 5" box sides, gives very little room for error. Absolutely no flex like thinner wood. I have found that with thick sides it has to be almost perfect. I do miter on my lowly 14" dewalt sliding miter saw. Bought in 2004 for cutting cultured trim pieces. I truly believe this was abuse...
I have stack of thin wood pieces or cards to shim saw for minor adjustments. Cut one box, assemble dry on TS. If good put in go stack. Minor deviation correct with cards. Box gets a bit smaller. Major deviations, smaller yet.
I have thought of inside splines but love the aromatic cedar for top tray to slide on. Again mitered. Those are friction fit.
I think if you can master a box (obviously you can) you have the skill to make a desk, dresser, buffet or... they are all same boxes inside bigger boxes.
Very nice work and your results are outstanding.
I get the the test box, but as a contractor you hated getting second chance, meant you screwed up first time and lost your butt.
Click to expand...
Edited, all this time and my lack of editing skills has gotten worse
 
Nice project. I love miter joints on my boxes. Smaller boxes do not usually need miter keys but can add a bit of decoration to the box. Bigger boxes need miter keys or a hidden spline. Dove tails are really nice looking and strong. I have yet to relearn them.
Just my quick thoughts.
And that wood is amazing.
 
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