Chain Saw Chain Sharpening

sprucegum

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The local small engine guy uses a grinder to harden chains for the home owner types who do not hand file, he says they stay sharp longer and no one is going to file them anyway. I occasionally have him grind one if I really dull it bad like the time I sawed into part of a old cast iron stove. When he grinds mine he uses 3 or 4 quick light touches per tooth. I like hand filing as it gives you more options depending on the wood being cut, I will file a saw differently for frozen maple than I do for white pine in the summer.
 

Graybeard

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Thanks for the replies. Some of you guys are pros and have done this for a long time. I'm sure in time I'll learn a few tricks of the trade too. As a beginner that screwed up hand filing I'll use the jig to see if I can establish a baseline and learn from there.

Thanks again,

Graybeard
 

woodtickgreg

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Thanks for the replies. Some of you guys are pros and have done this for a long time. I'm sure in time I'll learn a few tricks of the trade too. As a beginner that screwed up hand filing I'll use the jig to see if I can establish a baseline and learn from there.

Thanks again,

Graybeard
There's no shame in using a jig, it will teach you how to keep an angle and get a feel for the file. After awhile you won't need the jig as your confidence grows.
 

SDB777

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The local small engine guy uses a grinder to harden chains for the home owner types who do not hand file, he says they stay sharp longer and no one is going to file them anyway. I occasionally have him grind one if I really dull it bad like the time I sawed into part of a old cast iron stove. When he grinds mine he uses 3 or 4 quick light touches per tooth. I like hand filing as it gives you more options depending on the wood being cut, I will file a saw differently for frozen maple than I do for white pine in the summer.


Grinders won't help a chain stay sharper any longer if the chain runs through metal in the timber, or even rocks on the ground. I would call that almost 'dishonest product endorsement'....JMHO.

If a grinder is used, the quick 'taps' are about the best way to do it...as long as the grinding wheel is rounded. A new wheel can/will leave a squared corner in the chain, making it impossible to 'touch-up' with a file in the field.





Scott (I have many jigs laying around) B
 

HomeBody

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Having the proper size file is really more important, it's the top of the cutter that does the most cutting, if your file is too small it may not touch the top of the cutter.

Thanks Greg. I think I found my problem. File too small and not making good contact with the top of the cutter. Gary
 

woodtickgreg

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Thanks Greg. I think I found my problem. File too small and not making good contact with the top of the cutter. Gary
Very good, as you are sharpening the tooth you will feel a little burr on the top of the cutter from the filing. Do not be too concerned about the burr and think you have to remove it, you don't, it just tells you that you have a sharp edge, it will come off as soon as you bury the chain in some wood.
 

HomeBody

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Come to think of it, my file is a 4mm or 5mm or some such metric number. My chain is a 3/8" X 0.50" X 28". Seems to me they would have a file measured in 32nd's for SAE chain instead of metric. Maybe it's not that big of a difference. The guy told me there were 2 sizes of chainsaw files, "regular" and "big".:whatever: I take it there might be more that this available. Gary
 

woodtickgreg

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Come to think of it, my file is a 4mm or 5mm or some such metric number. My chain is a 3/8" X 0.50" X 28". Seems to me they would have a file measured in 32nd's for SAE chain instead of metric. Maybe it's not that big of a difference. The guy told me there were 2 sizes of chainsaw files, "regular" and "big".:whatever: I take it there might be more that this available. Gary
You need to find another place to get your files, he may only carry 2 sizes but there are many. Look at what Baileys has to offer online for some ideas. There are also many manufacturers of files. Heck home depot has more than 2 sizes! LOL. I don't even notice what the fractional dimension is of my files anymore, I can just look at one and know if it is correct or not.
 

sprucegum

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Come to think of it, my file is a 4mm or 5mm or some such metric number. My chain is a 3/8" X 0.50" X 28". Seems to me they would have a file measured in 32nd's for SAE chain instead of metric. Maybe it's not that big of a difference. The guy told me there were 2 sizes of chainsaw files, "regular" and "big".:whatever: I take it there might be more that this available. Gary
I think the 3/8 is the length of the drivers .050 is the thickness of the material they are made of and the 28 is the number of drivers I am sure Greg who works in a small engine shop can tell you for sure. When I buy a chain for my steil I ask for a 72/72 (72 gauge chain with 72drivers). My saws use a 9/32" file I think the smaller ones take a 7/32" I like frost bite brand files there are a couple places local that carry them. A good cutting file is a big help and is safer to use as you can get good results with very little pressure. I once put a 4 stitch gash in my finger when a dull file slipped. If you purchase your files by the box of 12 you can usually get good files for less than $2.00 each. I usually can file a chain for all of it's useful life with one file if I keep the file clean and dry, the ones that rattle around in the tractor toolbox don't last that long.
 

manbuckwal

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I think the 3/8 is the length of the drivers .050 is the thickness of the material they are made of and the 28 is the number of drivers I am sure Greg who works in a small engine shop can tell you for sure. When I buy a chain for my steil I ask for a 72/72 (72 gauge chain with 72drivers). My saws use a 9/32" file I think the smaller ones take a 7/32" I like frost bite brand files there are a couple places local that carry them. A good cutting file is a big help and is safer to use as you can get good results with very little pressure. I once put a 4 stitch gash in my finger when a dull file slipped. If you purchase your files by the box of 12 you can usually get good files for less than $2.00 each. I usually can file a chain for all of it's useful life with one file if I keep the file clean and dry, the ones that rattle around in the tractor toolbox don't last that long.
Actually the 3/8" refers to pitch .........The PITCH is the distance measured between the center of three link rivets, divided by 2.
 

woodtickgreg

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Actually the 3/8" refers to pitch .........The PITCH is the distance measured between the center of three link rivets, divided by 2.
Ding ding ding! That's correct! And we have a winner! LOL.
First number is chain pitch between rivets, second is plate thickness, third is number of drive links or the teeth inside the chain.
 

HomeBody

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Bought a couple of 7/32" files yesterday. They say "5.5mm". I believe the file I was using was a 5mm. I'll be filing today. Hope it works. Gary
 
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