What finish(es) yellows the LEAST over time?
Clear enough?
- Thread starter Ken Martin
- Start date
Conversion varnish, probably water based acrylic, CA glue.
I asked this a year or two ago and based on feedback concluded wipe on poly is the clearest.
I really don't know. I asked about clear finish for some quilted maple I was putting into some table lamps. Wanted to try to keep them as white as possible. The poly darkened the maple a little but stayed clear and still is. In fact, I used it on an entryway hat rack / mirror thing over 5 years ago and it's still clear. I figured compared to all other options, it was the best choice.
Oil base poly will impart a yellow tint, but after the initial yellowing I think the poly is relatively stable in color.
Really depends on the time frame you are considering, 5 years or 50 years.
Another is old fashioned nitrocellulose lacquer. Great clear finish that will bring out the grain, but it does yellow after many years.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #7
@trc65 well, I’d like to think that people will like my bowls and stuff enough to keep them a while - maybe even have them eventually thought if as that piece they want for themselves as a memento of Grandma, when she has left us. So, yeah, I’m shooting for that 50 year mark… maybe more.
My philosophy on bowls has been that oil or oil/resin finishes are best and I've stayed away from any kind of film finishes.
The oil I think is the best balance between durability and color is polymerized tung oil. It does add an amber color, but much less so than boiled linseed oil. Tung oil also gives reasonable water resistance compared to linseed. Many use walnut oil, and it is a little lighter in color than tung, but I don't think it gives near the protection - it also takes much longer to cure.
Another option is some of the "Danish oils" that are oil/resin mixes and wipe on poly. Many of them though seem to have more amber color than tung oil alone.
I don't turn too many light color woods so haven't been concerned about color change. Color changes with any of these finishes will be so gradual that I've never worried to much.
The oil I think is the best balance between durability and color is polymerized tung oil. It does add an amber color, but much less so than boiled linseed oil. Tung oil also gives reasonable water resistance compared to linseed. Many use walnut oil, and it is a little lighter in color than tung, but I don't think it gives near the protection - it also takes much longer to cure.
Another option is some of the "Danish oils" that are oil/resin mixes and wipe on poly. Many of them though seem to have more amber color than tung oil alone.
I don't turn too many light color woods so haven't been concerned about color change. Color changes with any of these finishes will be so gradual that I've never worried to much.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #9
@trc65 , yeah, I normally use Danish oil to pop the grain on a piece and give it depth, then follow with a couple of coats of poly. But I’ve found that the Danish oil doesn’t seem to give consistent results from batch to batch, even when using the same brand. Sometimes it’s darker than others and I always use the clear.
I agree about it not being much of a problem on darker woods, but my wife swears that the younger consumers of today want light colored wood products. These are the ones I’m seeing the yellowing on.
I’ve use Tung oil a few times and found it to be somewhat satisfactory, but the Satin finish poly gives me more of the luster that I’m looking for - I just don’t want the yellowing that comes with age. Tung oil is adequate , I guess, but the end result is more “severe”. Maybe I need to thin it down or something.
I’ve tried a few friction polishes and like the results, but inevitably my patrons ask about durability and friction polishes or wax polishes are just not durable. I guess I’m searching for the holy grail of finishes and who better to ask than this crew.
thanks for the input!
I agree about it not being much of a problem on darker woods, but my wife swears that the younger consumers of today want light colored wood products. These are the ones I’m seeing the yellowing on.
I’ve use Tung oil a few times and found it to be somewhat satisfactory, but the Satin finish poly gives me more of the luster that I’m looking for - I just don’t want the yellowing that comes with age. Tung oil is adequate , I guess, but the end result is more “severe”. Maybe I need to thin it down or something.
I’ve tried a few friction polishes and like the results, but inevitably my patrons ask about durability and friction polishes or wax polishes are just not durable. I guess I’m searching for the holy grail of finishes and who better to ask than this crew.
thanks for the input!
Boat finish
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #11
@Don Ratcliff , your picture didn’t load. Would you mind trying again?
where do you get boat finish? I haven’t seen it at Sherwin Williams. Should I try a marine store/boat shop? There are a few of those around here.
where do you get boat finish? I haven’t seen it at Sherwin Williams. Should I try a marine store/boat shop? There are a few of those around here.
Sent pm with info
Are you using pure tung oil, or the big box products marketed as tung oil.? If the latter you may be getting a little tung oil in it, but just as likely BLO. It is probably a wiping varnish.
Pure tung oil is thick, not quite molasses thick but in that direction. I cut mine at least 50/50 with a citrus solvent if I want good penetration. It will darken lighter woods a bit (thinning it even more reduces that), and I've not seen a yellowing problem.
Last edited:
If Ken's applying this to bowls, doesn't "food safe" come into the equation as well? I don't think the wipe on poly's are all that food safe. You probably wouldn't ingest enough to bother anyone, but if you're a stickler for safety, it might make a difference.
All finishes sold in the United States by law, have to be food safe after curing. When we actually talk about food safe finishes. We are actually talking about a finish that the buyer can refinish themselves relatively easy when the item starts to dry out.
Spar Varnishes with UV protection will also help. These are the finishes they use on boats and such. When you encounter this finish it'll take a day or two for it to dry/cure.
I use either Wipe on Poly, or Acks wood finish system.
Can't put my hands on it right now, but fairly certain Minwax Tung Oil Finish is one of the products with similar names that contain no tung oil. I believe it is mostly varnish and mineral spirits with a little BLO. A very nice finish, I think, but will yellow more than the other options discussed - and is expensive compared to a similar finish you can make from varnish, mineral spirits and BLO.
Tung oil will yellow less and I suspect would darken light woods less than the Minwax TOFinish. It will also be more matte, so if you're wanting gloss pure tung oil isn't the way to go (though you can apply gloss finishes over tung oil once cured). I really like the pure tung oil from Real Milkpaint, but you can find other options at a Woodcraft/Rocklers or the like. Application is very easy, but generally 4-5 coats or more are necessary and full cure can take 30 days or more - so it isn't for rush jobs. I like it for things that will get long term use (bowls, duck calls, etc.) because it can be cleaned and wiped with tung oil periodically to renew.