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End Grain on pot calls

SCWoodturner

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What is best way to get rid of end grain when turning a pot call ? Some are worse than others. Is there a sanding sealer compatible with True oil finish?
 
Hmm interesting If you sand a lot it will almost certainly go away but its definitely annoying. I started using a skew from japanese steel which I grind up to 12000 grit with stropping compounds (im crazy I know) but it has stopped this kind of thing happening to me. Also it saves me a lot of time sanding.
Dan.
 
Tear out when u are turning round
I use if back 80 grit abranet to sand down
Wet sand
Then got to 120 240 etc
Walnut is bad about that
I use on exotic or real hard woods like persimmon for pots
 
Hmm interesting If you sand a lot it will almost certainly go away but its definitely annoying. I started using a skew from japanese steel which I grind up to 12000 grit with stropping compounds (im crazy I know) but it has stopped this kind of thing happening to me. Also it saves me a lot of time sanding.
Dan.
Would you be able to post a pic of this tool? Thanks!
 
It's just a skew. With good steel but its still just a skew. It doesn't work any differently or look different. The steel has a harder quench (I believe it's a salt water solution) with lighter quenched sides (oil I think) similar to moraknives.
 
Sharp tool (skew, gouge, or even scraper with a good burr) and light cuts.
 
If a skew isn't to your liking, shear "scraping" with the wing of a gouge works well. Also, blowing off dust while cutting and sanding, along with a bright light helps reveal these spots before you apply finish.
 
Yeah a skew is sort of complicated to use.
But it’s well worth it because it saves so much time sanding. Normally I can just jump right to 320 grit sandpaper and then go higher. Or just burnish right away and skip sanding altogether. Rob cosman has a good video on how to use a skew. I believe his channel is robcosman.com but don’t quote me on that.
 
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  • #12
Thanks for all the advice. Luckily I didn't remove from face plate earlier and was able to put back on lathe and take several light skim cuts with a tool I use for making pens . Doing that and lite sanding then burnishing with steel wool it finally cleaned up good enough for me. IMG_3311.jpeg IMG_3312.jpeg
 
Thanks for all the advice. Luckily I didn't remove from face plate earlier and was able to put back on lathe and take several light skim cuts with a tool I use for making pens . Doing that and lite sanding then burnishing with steel wool it finally cleaned up good enough for me.View attachment 272144View attachment 272147
I don’t turn many pots but I was gonna comment that I use my round carbide at an angle
 
Looks really good, well done. I'm not an anti-carbide guy - I still use them for certain work and love them. If you don't have a decent sharpening setup, they are 100% the way to go. Get a couple diamond plates (even cheap ones) and you can sharpen the carbide blades and keep them fresh for light cuts.

Having said that, if you have a good sharpening setup, a good skew or bowl gauge would make this finishing infinitely easier and quicker and with even better results. In my opinion, people make these tools seem much harder to use than they really are. A light peeling cut with a skew is super easy to learn - and yields a result noticeably better than I can achieve with a carbide. A paring cut is many times better, yet, and just takes a little practice to learn. Sandpaper becomes optional. I think a bowl gouge cut is even easier, but one advantage of a skew is that it is easier to sharpen free-hand - and a traditional flat-edge skew can be sharpened on a plate if you don't have a grinder. There are plenty of folks here (better than I) who can help if you decide to explore those paths.
 
Looks really good, well done. I'm not an anti-carbide guy - I still use them for certain work and love them. If you don't have a decent sharpening setup, they are 100% the way to go. Get a couple diamond plates (even cheap ones) and you can sharpen the carbide blades and keep them fresh for light cuts.

Having said that, if you have a good sharpening setup, a good skew or bowl gauge would make this finishing infinitely easier and quicker and with even better results. In my opinion, people make these tools seem much harder to use than they really are. A light peeling cut with a skew is super easy to learn - and yields a result noticeably better than I can achieve with a carbide. A paring cut is many times better, yet, and just takes a little practice to learn. Sandpaper becomes optional. I think a bowl gouge cut is even easier, but one advantage of a skew is that it is easier to sharpen free-hand - and a traditional flat-edge skew can be sharpened on a plate if you don't have a grinder. There are plenty of folks here (better than I) who can help if you decide to explore those paths.
There are plenty of folks here (better than I) who can help if you decide to explore those paths. Hmmmmmmm
 
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