Live Edge Bowl Blanks

GlynnC

GlynnC

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Glynn
I'm looking for a live edge bowl blank(s), would like to turn bowl 5 to 10 inches diameter, 4 to 8 inches depth. I have chain saw and band saw, so I can rough cut, then will twice turn if still wet. First time to do live edge bowl, so I need an easy blank to start with :hi2:
Advice welcome.
Thanks
Glynn
 
With or without bark? That makes a difference in age of blank , date cut, etc. Maple, pear, and those diffuse woods tend to work best for beginners because there are fewer variations in density.
Best in my opinion would be flame Box Elder. Showy but fairly soft. I have turned very few pieces. Just spit balling.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
Hi 2feathers,
Thanks for the advice. I assumed I would be looking for a blank with bark (to provide the live edge?). Is there a better term to use to describe a blank with the bark still on it (still new at this and may not be using the right terms). I guess what I'm looking for is a half log that I can put on the band saw to make it round, then use a two-prong center to turn. I've done several segmented bowls and lots of pens, spindles, but I'm really looking forward to trying a "live edge" bowl. I'll watch for Maple or Pear. Again - thanks, advice is appreciated.
Cheers
Glynn
 
GlynnC said:
Hi 2feathers,
Thanks for the advice. I assumed I would be looking for a blank with bark (to provide the live edge?). Is there a better term to use to describe a blank with the bark still on it (still new at this and may not be using the right terms). I guess what I'm looking for is a half log that I can put on the band saw to make it round, then use a two-prong center to turn. I've done several segmented bowls and lots of pens, spindles, but I'm really looking forward to trying a "live edge" bowl. I'll watch for Maple or Pear. Again - thanks, advice is appreciated.
Cheers
Glynn
Click to expand...
You will want it cut in late fall or winter after the sap drops. The cambium layer separates most easily when it is full of sap. You want the log at least 5 inches thick. And 3 inches or so at the sides.
Final question (for now) what is your max diameter on your lathe?
I would likely recommend a maximum 12 inch square that maxed out at 6 inches thick to fit in an lfrb to keep shipping to a manageable rate.
 
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  • #6
Thanks for the guidance, especially about when to harvest. I'll use that advice and look for an opportunity to get some in the next few months.
Best wishes,
Glynn
 
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  • #7
Hi 2 Feathers
Sorry, got distracted for a while before I finished answering your question. I have a Laguna 12/16. I've done a couple of turnings in the 12 plus range, and do those on the outboard side, but that is very limited, so I try to stay at 11.5 inches or less.
 
2feathers Creative Making said:
You will want it cut in late fall or winter after the sap drops. The cambium layer separates most easily when it is full of sap. You want the log at least 5 inches thick. And 3 inches or so at the sides.
Final question (for now) what is your max diameter on your lathe?
I would likely recommend a maximum 12 inch square that maxed out at 6 inches thick to fit in an lfrb to keep shipping to a manageable rate.
Click to expand...
Usps has lost shipping advantage. Most of the time I use UPS for such things. Not so size specific.
 
Producing a bowl blank that bark will stay on is probably not something to get from me.
 
You will get more oval with the narrower logs because the radius of the log limits the upper edge of the bowl in a tighter arc.

Stated another way, the outer edge drops more sharply on the smaller diameter log sections.

A live edge 11.5 inch bowl blank cut from a 36 inch diameter log will have almost a round shape while a 16 inch log will produce a pronounced oval. I actually drop to around a 9 inch diameter to get this oval 16672602902492883867586789914484.webp 16672603289705522770078268040728.webp 166726035669333073726567193183.webp Apple. Was originally turned as a weighted base rabbit food dish. Note the unfinished bottom and a random chainsaw cut in the left side.
I am currently in dispute with the rabbit keeper who at the moment is more of a bowl keeper...
 
A few months ago I watched John Jordan give a demo of a "bark-on, live-edge" bowl. He specifically said not to cut it round, because you'll lose a lot when it turns out to be oval. Leave it longer than it is wide, and feel free to trim off the corners.

I asked him if there's a way to determine the best ratio of length to width - and as you can guess, the answer was "practice" :unknown:
 
duncsuss said:
A few months ago I watched John Jordan give a demo of a "bark-on, live-edge" bowl. He specifically said not to cut it round, because you'll lose a lot when it turns out to be oval. Leave it longer than it is wide, and feel free to trim off the corners.

I asked him if there's a way to determine the best ratio of length to width - and as you can guess, the answer was "practice" :unknown:
Click to expand...
He can be "evasive". He does not have all that many live edge in his collections at his house/shop.
 
Mike Hill said:
He can be "evasive". He does not have all that many live edge in his collections at his house/shop.
Click to expand...

This was a live remote demo (Zoom event) organised by a neighbouring turning club. He was rather surprised that they asked him to demonstrate live-edge bowls, given he is far more renowned for his embellished hollowforms. My club were invited to join the Zoom call, so not our place to question the choice they'd made - but privately we were all shaking our heads asking "what were they THINKING?" :unknown:

That said - he was professional and very informative. I didn't take his "practice, sonny, practice" to be evasive, just a recognition that he doesn't have a formula for it.
 
I did not mean evasive in a bad light. He likes people to think and discover for themselves and not to think there is some "secret" to good woodturning, but is what you make of it and how much work you put into it. In early years he seemed to turn more elongated shapes, now more squatty or as tall as wide. But his main focus nowadays seems to be texture. I was in his shop one day when a guy from NC brought in a couple of his pieces for critique. In my eyes they were pretty far out there - Oddly shaped, heavily textured and heavily painted. He was not crazy about the paint, but was excited about some of the textures. And he still rides motorcycles!
 
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