Osage Orange, and Cedar Elm

[Barb]

Quite a few of us have used Anchorseal instead of wax. @Barb has used Silica Gel successfully to wick out moisture, once you get to shaping the wood. Chuck

I'm by no means an expert but when I'm in a hurry(or have no patience) I've used silica beads with success. I rough turn it, submerge the piece in beads for at least a couple of weeks depending on the size, then finish turn it with no cracks. If I'm not in a hurry I've used anchorseal but found that a 50/50 mixture of Elmer's glue and water works just as well and is quite a bit cheaper.

 

[Ken Martin]

I mostly use the black tar-looking roof repair (leak patch) stuff in a gallon bucket. It dries to a plastic in a day or two and seals the wood really well …. And it’s cheap! Wear rubber gloves and use a piece of straight edged wood to apply. Scoop it up, slather it on, and smooth it out! Easy peazy!

 

[Arn213]

I am milking a 5 gallon container of the original Anchorseal that I purchased 8 plus years ago that I use primarily for guitar billets, furniture planks, slabs and some bowl blanks. I have poured some into quart containers just to make it manageable. Back then it was more economical and much more efficient compare to purchasing a quart container at Woodcraft- I paid $ 86 with free UPS ground shipping (east coast to east coast). I don’t know if the company offers free shipping still, but I know the price has doubled for a 5 gallon.

I tried the Anchorseal 2, because it was more “green”, but I find that it was on the thinner and more water down version on the original recipe- by my observation it wasn’t as effective with greener wood (or with wood with higher moisture content) as it was susceptible to more checking. I find out that I have to apply multiple applications in order to get better results.

 

[ironman123]

@300LW that is some pretty bois d arc. There is a tree about 1/2 mile from me on the creek that I am keeping an eye on. It is only about 7 inch diameter now. Might be a long wait for it.

 

[Barb]

I am milking a 5 gallon container of the original Anchorseal that I purchased 8 plus years ago that I use primarily for guitar billets, furniture planks, slabs and some bowl blanks. I have poured some into quart containers just to make it manageable. Back then it was more economical and much more efficient compare to purchasing a quart container at Woodcraft- I paid $ 86 with free UPS ground shipping (east coast to east coast). I don’t know if the company offers free shipping still, but I know the price has doubled for a 5 gallon.

I tried the Anchorseal 2, because it was more “green”, but I find that it was on the thinner and more water down version on the original recipe- by my observation it wasn’t as effective with greener wood (or with wood with higher moisture content) as it was susceptible to more checking. I find out that I have to apply multiple applications in order to get better results.

I've never used the original Anchorseal but I have had many pieces check using Anchorseal 2. I've since started using multiple coats because of that. This will be the last conatiner I ever own of the stuff.

 

[rob3232]

I agree with Arn on the Anchorseal original. I use two coats on fresh cut burls. I prefer the summer blend but just make sure that it doesn't freeze, It will ruin it! If you order directly from U-CCoatings it is $107 plus shipping for 5 gal .I wouldn't recommend Aseal2 just because it is so thin.
A couple of other options are Bailey's $80 for 5 gal. plus shipping. Waxlor $100 for 5 gal. plus shipping. I haven't read any reviews on either of these.
Some turning clubs just throw in and split up a 5 gallon bucket. I think 5 gal would last most woodworker more than a lifetime.

 

[Nature Man]

I've used 2 gallons in about 10 years. Currently out, but then my wood is in storage right now. Chuck

 

[2feathers Creative Making]

I buy 9 dollar a gallon mistinted paints of a 'certain' viscosity when I can find it. Deck coatings, masonry coatings, roof coatings

 

[Kentexian]

Wow! Thanks everyone. My neighbor is a wood turner and she was kind enough to let me dip into her anchor seal. I have no idea whether it is original or 2.

I roughed out the mallet head and the mortise for the handle yesterday. Boy is this stuff dense! Once it’s dry I can’t imagine it denting with normal use on chisels. If it doesn’t check I think it’ll be serving my family for a couple of generations.

As for the handle stock another neighbor of mine said he had a fence post that was split from bodarc that I could cut a piece out of it. Its only 100 years old!

I went after it with a saw and to my utter amazement underneath the 100 years of weather rot was beautiful yellow! So I put a Froe to it and a hand plane to dimension. Before I knew it I had a passable handle!

Thanks everyone for the advice and @300LW for the material! I just need to wait a couple of years to finish it and I’ll be all set.

 

[Nature Man]

Congrats! Turned out remarkably well! Chuck

 

[Kentexian]

Turned a small carvers mallet out of my remaining bodark for small detailed work.

thanks to all for the information, the material and the interest! I hope you all had a great Christmas!