That's crazy. This thing needs to be felled in a vat of anchorseal!
Pistachio Wood
- Thread starter Shiotani11
- Start date
My son lives on the high plains in Colorado. Had some curly cottonwood set aside for me. 2 months later when visiting it was beyond use.
2 months is more understandable. But that much checking in a day is wild. I bought several blocks of Blue Mahoe a few months back... Had them sitting on my work bench for just a few days, and while i was working i could hear them crack every few seconds. It was wild. I've since CA glued them and sealed the end grain, and it's been much better.
Yeah. That is not really worth 120. Maybe ~60 seeing as it is a rare species.
Parrifin wax. Woods like that and low humidity+ high heat have to have special care.
High heat and very low humidity.
Here, yesterday it was 72 and 17%. Very very low for April. But normal for 90+ in July. My outdoor kiln arrived early this year. Without rain we are setting up for a very bad year.
Its OK. You can send your wood to me for safe keeping. Its usually pretty humid here in PA
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #28
High desert air i guess? Im cutting down the other tomorrow and i just found out that i need to cover the exposed areas i cut with something like wax to keep it from doing that.It's got that much end checking after being cut down yesterday!?
Yeah that's pretty important in your situation. If you don't have anchorseal or wax, basic latex paint works well
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- #30
I just learned about the checks and how to properly seal it but too late and unfortunately after i cut it down. Its about 15 ish years and it was grown myself where it sat at the end of the dinner table until we decided it needed to be outside. The tree wasnt a fruit bearing tree and we just never got around to getting one that does so this one could pollenate it.
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- #31
Im willing to do $60 for the whole tree and ill update the post to reflect it
My question is exactly how much yield is there going to be? You'd mentioned 3-5ft long branches, but it doesn't appear that there are any pieces that long in a single limb. Have you cut it all up yet? Would be better to have photos of the final yield... At least it would be better for a noob like me lol
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- #33
Tomorrow ill clean it up and post another picture. When I was cutting down the first one( literally never had cut any tree down before) i had and still really dont have any idea what i was doing. I wish i knew about sealing but the second tree im cutting down tomorrow should be much better. Any advice on the other tree before i cut it down? This ones bigger and id like to do it right the first time this time. Thanks
I'm far from an expert. I'm sure some others here would have much better advice. The only things that come to mind are (1) don't cut through the crotch (it's valuable), and (2) seal the ends as soon as you finish cutting (unique to your case due to climate and presumed sensitive species). I guess maybe also keep shipping size in mind when deciding where to cut. I believe 47" is the upper limit for reasonable shipping rates.
This. Also, cut to maximise yield of straight pieces. Any curved pieces you should still keep. The smaller curved branches are useful for spoon carvers (you should be able to find some in your area or if the price is good and shipping doesn’t kill me I will jump) anything wider than 4 inches is good. Even with steep curves.
Also, on the first tree, try clipping a couple inches off the cracked ends and sealing immediately if you find what I imagine will likely be decent surface.
You may want to snap a.picture just before and after sealing so you can remember what it looked like. The wax will cover the grain patterns.
You may want to snap a.picture just before and after sealing so you can remember what it looked like. The wax will cover the grain patterns.