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Review: Rowdy Rooster Hardwax Oil with Ceramic Additives

Big Ry

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Below is my evaluation and test results of a new hardwax oil I found on Amazon. As noted below, this is not a solicitation, and I am not being compensated in any way for this review. There is no discount codes or affiliate links. If you decide you want to try this product, its available on Amazon or on the company website. I also got the blessing of the Admin to post this review in advance. I welcome any questions or critiques anyone has. Enjoy!

INTRODUCTION & DISCLOSURES:
I was perusing Amazon one day and stumbled upon a unique wood finish – a hardwax oil that contains a ceramic additive. The product is made by a small company called Rowdy Rooster, based out of Orwigsburg, PA (https://rowdyroosterwoodworks.com/). The price point of $29 for a pint was very attractive, so I decided to buy it to see how it performed. I decided I was going to do some stain testing on this finish and opted to pit it against the ever-popular Rubio Monocoat Oil+2C.
Screenshot_20250703_152504_Amazon Shopping.webp RR Product Line.webp

In the process of doing some research on the product, I decided to contact the manufacturer to get more info on the cure time. I had a lengthy technical discussion with the owner of Rowdy Rooster – Amzi Smith – and I learned a great deal about the product development, the company’s other offerings, and the vision and goals for their product line. Amzi was not only very transparent about everything, but he also geeked out as much as I do about this sort of topic. To be perfectly clear, neither Amzi nor Rowdy Rooster provided any direction in how I conduct my evaluation or how I write my review. I had already decided to do the stain testing with Rubio prior to contacting the company. I paid for the product out of my own pocket and was not reimbursed for the purchase or in any way compensated for my evaluation. I am just doing this because I enjoy it and because I think this company deserves recognition.

I also need to note that Rowdy Rooster did not develop their hardwax oils to compete with Rubio, Odie’s, or any other popular hardwax oil on the market. It is not their intention that this hardwax oil be a direct competitor to Rubio, Odies, Natura, Osmo, etc. It was solely my decision to compare this Rowdy Rooster hardwax oil to Rubio Monocoat hardwax oil. Any conclusions I drew between the two hardwax oils should be taken at face value and not be treated as being indicative of finish quality.

MATERIAL DATA & COST COMPARISON:
Rowdy Rooster offers 2 hardwax oils – a more conventional hardwax oil and the one I evaluated which contains ceramic additives. Both Rowdy Rooster hardwax oils are 1 component finishes, though there is a siccative in the linseed oil to accelerate curing. The composition of the hardwax oil w/ceramics is as noted below with notes from Amzi explaining the ingredient usage in parentheses. No claims are made by me or the manufacturer as to food safety of this finish. The finish was developed with furniture makers in mind.

- Beeswax (self-explanatory)​
- Mineral Oil (for absorption and to provide a capillary path for the curing oil)​
- Boiled Linseed Oil (polymerized and contains a proprietary drier)​
- Carnauba Wax (self-explanatory)​
- Odorless Mineral Spirits (for absorption and to provide a capillary path for the curing oil)​
- Silicone Dioxide 20nm (shown surface protection improvement without a change of color in the final result)​

According to Amzi, the product was formulated to have a shelf life of multiple years. All Rowdy Rooster products are formulated and tested in a lab environment for behavioral characteristics such as viscosity, absorption times, curing time (which is also composed of controlled results as well as in use testing), temperature stability and performance. Then once reviewed for production compliance and procedural steps our products are tested in-use with wood species typical to the states and commonly used for furniture, oak, black walnut and maple.

Perhaps the most attractive feature of this finish is the price. This hardwax oil is a fraction of the cost of its competitors. A comparison of the total cost and cost per ounce for 2 common competitors is below. These are prices listed on the manufacturer’s website at the time of this writing.

Rowdy Rooster HW Oil w/Ceramic: $28.95 for 16oz = $1.80/oz
Rubio Monocoat Oil+2C: $59.99 for 390mL (13.19oz) = $4.55/oz
Odie’s Oil – Odie’s Universal Oil: $55.91 for 9oz = $6.21/oz

TEST SYNOPSIS & INITIAL IMPRESSIONS:
My initial impressions were that Rowdy Rooster shows more chatoyance and contrast than Rubio, but the final color and tone of the cured hardwax oils are otherwise the same. In liquid form, the viscosity of the oils are nearly identical. Once fully cured, Rowdy Rooster retained a more silky/oily feel, but no oil residue came off on my fingers or with vigorous rubbing of a paper towel. Cured Rubio felt completely dry to the touch and somewhat rough.

Video showing chatoyance & contrast: https://photos.app.goo.gl/k6AtReTSFqDyq7fL8

Since I was originally conducting this test for my own use, I planned the test according to my typical usage and not necessarily according to manufacturer’s recommendations. As such, I applied 2 coats of Rubio Monocoat instead of a single coat as directed by the manufacturer. The Part B hardener was used in normal 1:3 ratio to Part A for both coats. For the Rowdy Rooster, the instructions say to apply at least 2 coats, so I applied 3 coats. All coats were spaced out at least 24 hours. Both test pieces cured for 1 month before any testing was performed. I did not include an unfinished test piece as a baseline, because I felt as though I have a very good idea of how the material would perform on a test like this.

My stain testing consisted of sample boards of ¾” Baltic birch plywood (cut from the same board). I conducted a water ring test with a glass pint of ice water on the test piece for 6 hours followed by stain testing for a 1 hour duration with ketchup, mustard, hot coffee, red wine, white vinegar, Windex, simple green (10:1 from concentrate), zep orange degreaser, Clorox bathroom cleaner with bleach, 70% isopropyl alcohol, and black and green sharpie markers. The test pieces were gently wiped down with mild soapy water and patted dry. This was done to remove any stain materials sitting on the surface, as that would not be representative of stain penetration. This wiping also removed some surface residues leftover from a few cleaners.

Water Ring Test (GO BIRDS!!!):

Water Ring Test - Begin.webp Water Ring Test - End.webp

Stain Tests:

Stain Test Setup.webp Stain Test Begin.webp

After I had completed my testing, I decided I should probably also make up some test pieces of hardwoods to show the appearance on something other than Baltic birch ply. I created 4 small samples using offcuts of soft maple, genuine mahogany, purpleheart, and what I believe is some kind of acacia. These samples were only fabbed up last night, so the finish is only 1 coat and is not cured. I did not create any sample of Rubio, so this is only Rowdy Rooster.

Video showing finish on hardwood samples: https://photos.app.goo.gl/f2hNZr2LPpeBvACUA

TEST RESULTS & CONCLUSIONS:
In summary, both products provided considerable protection over what would be expected of raw wood. As stated previously, I do not have a baseline for comparison, but anyone who has worked with plywood at all knows it is essentially just a sponge for stains and water is its enemy.

For all tests, it seems as though the Rowdy Rooster didn’t seal out moisture as well as Rubio. Rowdy Rooster still provided considerable moisture protection, but Rubio performed closer to a varnish or polyurethane. From my past experience using Rubio Monocoat, I assume a significant contribution to the water resistance of this finish is due to the Part B hardener. In hindsight, a test comparing Rowdy Rooster to Rubio Part A alone would be a more appropriate material comparison.

Both Rowdy Rooster and Rubio showed a water ring from the ice water pint test. The ring from the rowdy rooster was more pronounced than Rubio. Both are difficult to see unless viewed from a sharp angle.

Video showing results of water ring test (next day): https://photos.app.goo.gl/YCt9gpYnYBwJphsr6

The results of the stain tests are summarized below (broken out into 2 tables for space):

Food & Sharpie Markers:

Ketchup
Mustard
Hot Coffee
Red Wine
Sharpie Markers
Rowdy Rooster
0​
2​
1​
3​
5​
Rubio
0​
0​
0​
2​
5​
Key:
0 – No detectable stain
1 – Faint stain, only detectable at certain angles & lighting conditions
2 – Light stain, visible at multiple angles or under bright to moderate light
3 – Moderate stain, visible at all angles under most lighting conditions, significant stain removal at cleanup
4 – Dark stain, visible under all conditions, slight stain removal at cleanup
5 – Severe stain, no stain removal at cleanup


Cleaners & Miscellaneous:

White Vinegar
Windex
Simple Green
ZEP Degreaser
Clorox w/Bleach
70% Iso. Alcohol
Rowdy Rooster
0​
1​
1​
1​
3​
0​
Rubio
0​
0​
0​
0​
3​
0​
Key:
0 – No detectable damage or stain
1 – Faint damage/stain, only detectable at certain angles & lighting conditions
2 – Light damage/stain, visible at multiple angles or under bright to moderate light, slight sheen change
3 – Moderate damage/stain, visible at all angles under most lighting conditions, moderate sheen change
4 – Substantial damage/stain, visible under all conditions, severe sheen change and/or slight discoloration
5 – Severe damage/stain, no stain removal at cleanup, wood fibers exposed and significant discoloration


Stain Test Results (after wash) - RR Top.webp Stain Test Results (after wash) - Rubio top.webp
Stain Test Results (after wash) - Angle 1.webp Stain Test Results (after wash) - Angle 2.webp

Rubio performed the same or better than Rowdy Rooster in every test conducted, but it should be noted that the results between the two were extremely close except for the red wine and mustard tests where the difference in performance was more notable. Both Rowdy Rooster and Rubio struggled with the sharpie markers and Clorox bathroom cleaner. They both did better than expected with red wine and hot coffee. Rowdy Rooster performed surprisingly poor against mustard. Although not pictured, I wiped the sharpie tests with 70% isopropyl alcohol at the very end, and both finishes saw approximately a 50% removal of the sharpie markers.

Its not clear to me what contribution if any the ceramic additives have on the performance of this hardwax oil, since I did not compare the standard Rowdy Rooster hardwax oil to the ceramic version. Amzi stated the ceramics showed a slight increase in protection during his lab testing, so at this point I can only take him at his word. This is a very unique ingredient; therefore, I cannot draw on experience to make predictions or assessments.

After evaluating the test results, I believe this Rowdy Rooster hardwax oil is a good finish that is well suited for pieces that will not see regular exposure to food or cleaners. I think it would make a nice non-dining furniture finish. The silky feel and superior chatoyance and contrast make it a good choice for fine furniture and any pieces with figure and/or contrasting grain. The price point is likely to be a major selling point for many as it’s a mere fraction of the cost of other hardwax oils.

Full resolution images/videos and additional images not pictured above can be viewed at this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/otRugLHz7eAJ4uMK9
 
Great study! It's a little too late at night for me to start posing questions, at least coherently, but I will have some discussion when I get the chance in the next day or two.
 
Interesting test. I guess I'm not surprised that the RR feels silky/oily with mineral oil and beeswax. Same as I get on cutting boards with the same mix.

I've never used any of the hardwax oils, and don't see myself using them as most of what I do these days is turning. I do know however, that some turners have used some of them and are happy with results.

Is the RR application similar to the hardwax oils using only a little amount wiped on then off, or is more of a traditional oil application of flooding it then wiping off excess after a period of time? I ask, as I'm mentally comparing your tests to what I do with polymerized tung oil. Flood, and keep wet for 20 minutes or so, wipe off excess, dry 24 hours and repeat for usually 2-4 coats.

Have you compared similar stain resistance for tung oil? Never looked into it as I use tung oil mostly on turnings and use a self mixed "Danish oil" on furniture. Just curious how tung oil compares.

Not really looking for another finish to try as nothing compares the price of my self mixed polymerized tung mix ~ $25/quart the last time I mixed a batch. I use heat polymerized tung oil 1:1 with citrus solvent and a set amount of Japan drier.
 
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Interesting test. I guess I'm not surprised that the RR feels silky/oily with mineral oil and beeswax. Same as I get on cutting boards with the same mix.

I've never used any of the hardwax oils, and don't see myself using them as most of what I do these days is turning. I do know however, that some turners have used some of them and are happy with results.

Is the RR application similar to the hardwax oils using only a little amount wiped on then off, or is more of a traditional oil application of flooding it then wiping off excess after a period of time? I ask, as I'm mentally comparing your tests to what I do with polymerized tung oil. Flood, and keep wet for 20 minutes or so, wipe off excess, dry 24 hours and repeat for usually 2-4 coats.

Have you compared similar stain resistance for tung oil? Never looked into it as I use tung oil mostly on turnings and use a self mixed "Danish oil" on furniture. Just curious how tung oil compares.

Not really looking for another finish to try as nothing compares the price of my self mixed polymerized tung mix ~ $25/quart the last time I mixed a batch. I use heat polymerized tung oil 1:1 with citrus solvent and a set amount of Japan drier.
Yeah I'm really not a big fan of mineral oil or linseed for that matter. But i still wanted to try this stuff out. Interestingly, Amzi is making changes in response to my feedback. I'm not sure if these are final changes or just test batches, but the latest he told me was that he was removing the mineral oil altogether. Frankly, i didn't see the point of it, as absorption and capillary action can be achieved with solvents alone, and the final result of this new batch won't contain a non-drying oil.

A quick side bar: I've done a fair bit of finish testing in my short 1 year of woodworking. This was my first stain test, but I've done countless tests of custom mixes. When i first started out, i began with 2 tests - one was a comparison of finishes to use on a charcuterie board for my wife, the other was a series of tests for a finish to apply to the deck of my utility trailer. For the utility trailer test, i was trying to make use of the toxicity of used motor oil as it relates to insects and fungus, but i didn't want an oily and dirty surface that would stain sheets of plywood or hardwoods i put on it. Through a series of controlled finish tests, i found a way to essentially "lock in" the used motor oil into a matrix of polymers from curing oil and varnish. I have the actual ratios written downstairs on my test pieces, but it was a combo of used motor oil, boiled linseed oil, marine spar varnish, and mineral spirits (for penetration). It's been almost a full year since i put it on my trailer, and it still looks as good as new. The finish is not oily to the touch, yet it has used motor oil in it. It's more rubbery. The reason i say this is because this may explain why the mineral oil in rowdy rooster isn't really oily after it's cured.

I primarily use tung oil when I'm in need of a finish for food contact or kids toys. I use polymerized tung (Corey's) cut with d-limeonene anywhere from 1:1 to 1:4, and I also use a fair bit of odies oil. For non-food-contact, my go to is arm r seal oil poly or occasionally high performance water based poly. I'm also a big fan of watco butcher block oil and finish. It claims to be food safe, but i assume it isn't. It's tung alkyd based and has a really nice hand feel for a film finish.

As i mentioned, I've never done any other stain testing. One day i might test Odies and tung since i use them so much, but there are videos of both of these being tested on YouTube as well. Odies is a hardwax oil that you really need to be diligent about wiping off the excess, or it becomes a tacky mess. I find Rubio and rowdy rooster to not be nearly as finicky with that. I think with the Rubio though, you really want to rub it off cause if you don't you will end up with a blotchy finish. The Rubio part b hardens almost like epoxy resin, so it's a really tough and durable finish once cured. And as such, there's no fixing a blotchy finish without sanding it off. I doubt rowdy rooster is this finicky since it's a single component finish that is relatively thin.

I'm curious why you choose to use citrus solvent with tung when you are adding Japan dryer anyway. Obviously food safety isn't a concern given the Japan dryer usage. Does the citrus solvent provide some kind of material property that's superior to mineral spirits? I just learned this week (according to General Finishes), d-limeonene won't compromise cured arm r seal, but mineral spirits will. This was news to me. This came about in a discussion on their official Facebook page regarding wet sanding. I've always used mineral spirits to wet sand, but Amanda at General Finishes said not to and to use d-limeonene instead.
 
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Corey's (skin boat store) is also what I use.

When you first mentioned your trailer deck, what came to mind was the old sailers finish for boats. Pine tar, BLO and turpentine. I keep some of that around for periodically coating wood handles on shovels, garden tools, etc.
 
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Corey's (skin boat store) is also what I use.

When you first mentioned your trailer deck, what came to mind was the old sailers finish for boats. Pine tar, BLO and turpentine. I keep some of that around for periodically coating wood handles on shovels, garden tools, etc.
Yup, this is it here. It just sits out in the sun and rain all day, and unripe peaches fall all over it lol. It was previously under attack by insects, but the insect activity has completely stopped since i applied this finish. I'm actually shocked how well it has worked.

I have a bag of pine rosen, and I've wondered if it can be incorporated into a finish. It's marketed for "grip", so i thought it might be too sticky. But in solid form its like a rock, which makes me think it could make for a very durable finish.

BTW i modified my previous post to add a little detail and ask about your use of d-limeonene. I think you already responded before i submitted the changes though.

20241013_175811.webp
 
I use the citrus solvent as it evaporates slower than mineral spirits. Because of that, I can keep flooding the project longer without the oil starting to get sticky. I also like the smell better. Additionally, many places have started to carry only low odor mineral spirits locally, and I hate that stuff.

Yes, using the Japan drier precludes a "food safe" label, but nearly all Japan driers fall under the "generally accepted as safe" category in the regulations and I don't worry about it.

Many have expressed the opinion that all finished used in the U.S. could be classified as food safe if the various companies would pay for the testing. Of course, assuming a full cure on the finish.

Don't want to sidetrack to the topic of "food safe" though. That is a bottomless pit of arguments that go round and round. When other woodworkers ask, I tell them to read the science and make their own decision.
 
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I use the citrus solvent as it evaporates slower than mineral spirits. Because of that, I can keep flooding the project longer without the oil starting to get sticky. I also like the smell better. Additionally, many places have started to carry only low odor mineral spirits locally, and I hate that stuff.

Yes, using the Japan drier precludes a "food safe" label, but nearly all Japan driers fall under the "generally accepted as safe" category in the regulations and I don't worry about it.

Many have expressed the opinion that all finished used in the U.S. could be classified as food safe if the various companies would pay for the testing. Of course, assuming a full cure on the finish.

Don't want to sidetrack to the topic of "food safe" though. That is a bottomless pit of arguments that go round and round. When other woodworkers ask, I tell them to read the science and make their own decision.
It sounds like we are on the same page with that. I'm not one of those people who is crazy about food safety without actually knowing any of the science. I've read 21 CFR 175.300 more times than i care to admit lol. It was the basis of my last test, which was to investigate the curing properties of soybean oil, sesame oil, corn oil, olive oil, coconut oil, and fractionated coconut oil (MCT oil). I'm a little more cautious with things my daughter will probably chew on, but the charcuterie board i mentioned previous is covered in tabletop epoxy and topcoated with arm r seal lol. I was just under the impression that Japan dryer was cobalt salts and that cobalt salts were not remotely food safe. But i didn't actually look that up for myself.
 
It sounds like we are on the same page with that. I'm not one of those people who is crazy about food safety without actually knowing any of the science. I've read 21 CFR 175.300 more times than i care to admit lol. It was the basis of my last test, which was to investigate the curing properties of soybean oil, sesame oil, corn oil, olive oil, coconut oil, and fractionated coconut oil (MCT oil). I'm a little more cautious with things my daughter will probably chew on, but the charcuterie board i mentioned previous is covered in tabletop epoxy and topcoated with arm r seal lol. I was just under the impression that Japan dryer was cobalt salts and that cobalt salts were not remotely food safe. But i didn't actually look that up for myself.
Cobalt salts are specifically mentioned in the section on drying agents and are included as generally accepted as safe. Lots of chemistry involved that I've long since forgotten (if I ever truly understood it), but essentially they are converted to cobalt oxide(s) which are much more stable and safe. Additionally, they are encapsulated within the matrix of the finish itself. Levels of toxicity, depending on the specific oxide are around 450g for a 150lb person. Of course, when talking about your children, I agree with you and wouldn't be using any driers.
 
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Cobalt salts are specifically mentioned in the section on drying agents and are included as generally accepted as safe. Lots of chemistry involved that I've long since forgotten (if I ever truly understood it), but essentially they are converted to cobalt oxide(s) which are much more stable and safe. Additionally, they are encapsulated within the matrix of the finish itself. Levels of toxicity, depending on the specific oxide are around 450g for a 150lb person. Of course, when talking about your children, I agree with you and wouldn't be using any driers.
Yeah that's the kind of detail that im not able to find or able to interpret myself since i lack the requisite medical and chemistry knowledge. That and the plethora of chemical names for a given component. I have 2 years of college level chemistry under my belt. The rest is physics and engineering lol. So naturally it's hard to draw any conclusions about these components since the mere addition or subtraction of an oxygen molecule can mean the difference between toxic and inert. I even tried to find studies or scientific data on the safety of ingesting raw tung, because many act like it's poison yet i cannot find any data at all that says raw tung is harmful to ingest.
 
I have a bag of pine rosen, and I've wondered if it can be incorporated into a finish. It's marketed for "grip", so i thought it might be too sticky. But in solid form its like a rock, which makes me think it could make for a very durable finish.

If you want to keep playing, try and dissolve some of the resin. Probably the exact thing they use for jars of "pine tar". Traditionally turpentine would be used, but if you are going to play, I'd try a little MS, citrus solvent, and maybe some naphtha.
 
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If you want to keep playing, try and dissolve some of the resin. Probably the exact thing they use for jars of "pine tar". Traditionally turpentine would be used, but if you are going to play, I'd try a little MS, citrus solvent, and maybe some naphtha.
I don't think i have turpentine on hand, but i definitely have the others
 
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