• New Woodbarter Hats Are Available!!! Scroll down on the main page to the Member Activities & Site Support, Then click on Wood Barter SCHWAG and go to the topics on hats by Woodtickgreg to order your hat. There's only a limited quanity, so don't wait to get yours.

Vintage Powermatic 60 8" jointer

JonathanH

Member
Full Member
Messages
2,116
Reaction score
3,866
Location
Plano, Texas
First name
Jonathan
Taking up valuable space in my overstuffed garage (I call it a shop) is a vintage Powermatic 60, 8-inch jointer that has seen better days. This hunk of junk had been stored in a metal building in Fort Worth, Texas for many years, and, at some point has obviously been stored outdoors for an extended period of time judging by the rust on all of the unpainted surfaces and the paint peeling from the painted ones. The good thing that it has going for it is that it appears to be complete and original other than a couple of knobs that are missing.

The motor is dual voltage and was already wired for 220v which is my preference. I purchased 20 feet of 12 gauge industrial wiring and some plugs and made a heavy-duty extension cord as there is only 1- 220v outlet in the shop. I can only use 1 machine at a time and I intend to roll it toward the door when in use to limit the shavings inside.

The motor and cutterhead moved freely but I stood to the side when I flipped the switch for the first time. Much to my surprise it came right to life and settled in at a nice hum.

Back during the summer I spent a few several hours cleaning part of the bed surfaces. It was slow going and didn't produce the results that I was looking for so it got put off for another day. That day was last Saturday.

There are many ways to clean up "old 'arn" as they say. Some popular options are Evaporust, WD40 & razor blades, sandpaper, citric acid, electrolysis, and surface grinding. I've used most of those at one time or another. Due to the condition of the beds on this machine a surface grind would be the best, but not in the cards. Sanding it is.

Using a heavy-duty, 6-inch random orbital sander did the job. Started with using up a full box of 220-grit and working all the way through 800-grit. This was a slow job that took a full afternoon but the surfaces are much smoother than expected. Finished off with a couple of coats of paste wax to make things slide well.

I stopped to have dinner with the boss and caught a second wind. I had intended to stop and enjoy the progress for a week, yet now this thing is sitting there with both beds lowered, the cutterhead is out, bearing caps and bearings pulled. There is an industrial bearing supply just down the street from work so we'll get a new set of bearings as well.

The knives are dull and have some chipped out places. Time to pull them out, get them sharpened, and order a spare set. One of the knife jacking screws is missing and will need to be replaced. The other option that people rave about is a helical cutter head with carbide cutters. I'm on the fence about that, the helical cutterheads are pricey. Having never had a jointer doesn't give me any sense of judgement on how often it will get used. It should open a lot of doors into projects that I've not yet attempted but I don't have the experience to support that yet. I'm leaning toward keeping the straight knives for a year or two and working with the straight knives.

Enough rambling. You need pictures. :wonky:
 
Last edited:
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
Here is one of the knife jacking screws that is missing, the cylinder with the offset drilled set screw.

20260110_220755.jpg

20260110_220815.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
For the straight knife replacements there seems to be a couple of options, HSS or carbide tipped. Supposedly the carbide tipped will last 10 times longer than HSS. Do any of you have any experience comparing the two choices? What about a preferred supplier of quality knives?
 
Congrats on the restoration! Fortunately, you started with an excellent machine. But there surely is a lot of work to get it into a usable condition. As far as blades vs helical cutterheads, I've used both with my jointer. It came with blades, which I used for a few years, then I upgraded it to the helical cutterhead. Both work fine. The helical cutterhead is undoubtedly more efficient, and is certainly more quiet. Chuck
 
Amazing. I used to have an old 25cm (around 10 inches) jointer that I sold a few years back. Helical cutter head is expensive but an absolute ear saver. Your restoration was better that mine. (By a lot)

To be fair mine wasn’t rusted badly but I still had to clean some off the in and out feed tables.
 
Nice job on cleaning up deck. I am still looking. Jointer- Knifes actually give a better surface when new but this really does not matter in jointer application. Jointer makes things flat- smooth is side benefit. Knifes last me a long time. never tried carbide tipped. I upgraded head to straighten edge on burl- rather than saw straight edge.
I know someone who mostly does guitar billets. He runs billet thru helix head. Then uses the 13 inch dewalt with new blades to put final pass the make quilt and curl shine.
Plus of helix- durability negative cost and changing knife is easy and quick- inserts- you need a good part of day to take out clean put back , test- and remove and put back ones that are high. I still have 2 high ones on jointer. very annoying
 
Congrats on your successful resto! Getting an 8" jointer was a gamechanger for my woodworking, hope it is for you too..
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
This started off as just cleaning the decks and getting functional. The clean decks led to lowering the tables to change the bad bearings in the cutterhead. I made a visit to the local bearing shop and picked up a pair of replacement bearings and a new belt. New blades are ordered and in transit.

All these comments about restoration are a whole 'nother matter! :wonky:

So,...this evening I took both tables off. I checked them before I took anything apart with a 4' level, they weren't perfect, but they were pretty good. When it all came apart I found multiple pieces of measuring tape placed strategically on the ways to level them up. I'll be in for the treat of getting everything lined up level again upon reassembly. I'm going to need to source a good steel straightedge.

This thing has several layers of paint on it, at least a couple of them were applied with a brush. Paint is built up so thickly that all of the bolts have to be scraped with a razor blade before a wrench will go on. The good thing is that it is a very simple machine with only a few bolts that hold it together. The plan was to get it operational for now and worry about the cosmetics at some time in the future. I'm not sure that I will have the restraint to not do some sanding & painting while it is completely apart. :bad:
 
Definitely going to have to add a "Jonathan Wuz Here 2026" note!
 
Yeah I'd clean it up and restore it too. Like you said it's a simple machine and if you put it back together and use it you'll never restore and paint it. The mighty wire wheel is your friend when it comes to stripping paint on old iron. I also like brushed on oil based rustoleum paint. It flows out nice on the cast iron, 2 coats is usually good. Clean her up and make her new, you'll be glad you did every time you use it.
 
This started off as just cleaning the decks and getting functional. The clean decks led to lowering the tables to change the bad bearings in the cutterhead. I made a visit to the local bearing shop and picked up a pair of replacement bearings and a new belt. New blades are ordered and in transit.

All these comments about restoration are a whole 'nother matter! :wonky:

So,...this evening I took both tables off. I checked them before I took anything apart with a 4' level, they weren't perfect, but they were pretty good. When it all came apart I found multiple pieces of measuring tape placed strategically on the ways to level them up. I'll be in for the treat of getting everything lined up level again upon reassembly. I'm going to need to source a good steel straightedge.

This thing has several layers of paint on it, at least a couple of them were applied with a brush. Paint is built up so thickly that all of the bolts have to be scraped with a razor blade before a wrench will go on. The good thing is that it is a very simple machine with only a few bolts that hold it together. The plan was to get it operational for now and worry about the cosmetics at some time in the future. I'm not sure that I will have the restraint to not do some sanding & painting while it is completely apart. :bad:
I have not done it but read where on old jointers that have seen a lot of use they need to "shim the ways" to get both surfaces co-planer. probably what the tape measure pieces are. They are a very simple machine. at one time I really wanted a wider one. But I tried my friends old crescent- I think 16" on a 10" board. Decided my 8" does 95% of what I need the other 5% was want. They are huge .....
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #18
Nice worthwhile project, I would love to have an 8" jointer.

I watched Craigslist & FB Marketplace for a long while before this one popped up at a price that could not be ignored. I knew that I didn't want to start with a 6" and then feel the need to upgrade shortly after to a 8" so I held out. This one just needed more work than I really wanted to put into it so it has sat for a while.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #19
After the freeze and several weeks of being away more than being home I got back to it.

The tables and the jointer were stripped down to metal with a variety of hand-held & bench-mounted wire cups, brushes, abrasive stripper wheels, and scotch Brite wheels.

The castings are rough on this machine. No effort was made to smooth or fill the rough areas, just get the layers of paint off. Did the final wipedown withe acetone which easily dissolved / softened the traces of original paint that remained.

Self-etching primer went down first and then multiple coats of Moss Green Rustoleum. It isn't an exact color match to original but the closest that I could locate in a spray can.

Here are a couple of pictures in the current state.

20260207_151216.jpg

20260207_151013.jpg
 
After the freeze and several weeks of being away more than being home I got back to it.

The tables and the jointer were stripped down to metal with a variety of hand-held & bench-mounted wire cups, brushes, abrasive stripper wheels, and scotch Brite wheels.

The castings are rough on this machine. No effort was made to smooth or fill the rough areas, just get the layers of paint off. Did the final wipedown withe acetone which easily dissolved / softened the traces of original paint that remained.

Self-etching primer went down first and then multiple coats of Moss Green Rustoleum. It isn't an exact color match to original but the closest that I could locate in a spray can.

Here are a couple of pictures in the current state.

View attachment 284422

View attachment 284423
Congrats on the progress! It’s gonna be great when you are finished with it! Chuck
 
Back
Top