Bad day hunting

[sprucegum]

Hi Mke,

I'm sorry to see this but glad you came out relatively unscathed!

I thought I'd share the contact info for this shop near me. I wish you and I were closer as you could swing by this place, but if nothing else he may be able to provide you some great info for a specialist that's closer to you. Or he can certainly provide a new stock for you and give you some great info. They specialize in gun stocks and have been around since the 70's or early 80's. He has an amazing selection of stocks and a very impressive selection of wood overall.

Gunstocks – Dunlap Woodcrafts

dunlapwoodcrafts.com

Congrats on the bear! That's a great picture as well and I can't imagine moving it 3/4 of a mile. A whitetail is enough for me though I've always wanted to harvest a bear.

If you do go after a bear either bring help or hunt close to the road

 

[JonLanier]

I don't think I'd trust shooting with a repair. You might consider having a new stock built to replicate it. I know of a guy who does this sort of thing if you are interested, I'll try to connect you two.

 

[pvwoodcrafts]

I don't think I'd trust shooting with a repair. You might consider having a new stock built to replicate it. I know of a guy who does this sort of thing if you are interested, I'll try to connect you two.

thanks. I have a local I'm going to get in touch with and see if he is interested in restocking. I think I'll repair the broken stock and just keep it for memories sake. I'm thinking a very plain jane stock since it is user and not wall art. I have lots of stock size wood but I'm thinking I might do a cherry stock

 

[sprucegum]

thanks. I have a local I'm going to get in touch with and see if he is interested in restocking. I think I'll repair the broken stock and just keep it for memories sake. I'm thinking a very plain jane stock since it is user and not wall art. I have lots of stock size wood but I'm thinking I might do a cherry stock

Cherry would make a nice stock. Walnut carves much easier.

 

[barry richardson]

Assuming the break mates up well, the repair, with either yellow glue or epoxy, will be stronger that the existing wood, don't see any reason you would need to retire it....

 

[sprucegum]

Assuming the break mates up well, the repair, with either yellow glue or epoxy, will be stronger that the existing wood, don't see any reason you would need to retire it....

Looks like you and I are in the minority. I would remove the barrel, trigger and lock, I would probably drill at least one hole for a pin up through the trigger guard mortise to hold it in alignment for clamping. I would use a Dremel tool to remove some wood from the interior of the break to give the epoxy more bonding surface and key it together. I would use Brownell's acraglas gel for epoxy, the gel stays where you put it and doesn't run like the liquid. I would then clamp it lightly and forget about it for 24 hours. Honestly that stuff is stronger than the wood ever was.

 

[pvwoodcrafts]

Assuming the break mates up well, the repair, with either yellow glue or epoxy, will be stronger that the existing wood, don't see any reason you would need to retire it....

it is a good clean break along the grain. I'm going to use titebond 3 to repair it, thinking a good gluejoint is stronger than the wood itself just nervous about it. A lock and barrel coming back in my face would be the end of my hunting

 

[sprucegum]

Looks like you and I are in the minority. I would remove the barrel, trigger and lock, I would probably drill at least one hole for a pin up through the trigger guard mortise to hold it in alignment for clamping. I would use a Dremel tool to remove some wood from the interior of the break to give the epoxy more bonding surface and key it together. I would use Brownell's acraglas gel for epoxy, the gel stays where you put it and doesn't run like the liquid. I would then clamp it lightly and forget about it for 24 hours. Honestly that stuff is stronger than the wood ever was.

 

[sprucegum]

it is a good clean break along the grain. I'm going to use titebond 3 to repair it, thinking a good gluejoint is stronger than the wood itself just nervous about it. A lock and barrel coming back in my face would be the end of my hunting

You can always load it up and fire it with the butt against something other than your shoulder a few times. I probably wouldn't put it against something with no give to it as I've seen good stocks broken this way. Perhaps a couple of sandbags on the shooting bench. My cousin hunted quite a few years with a 99 savage in .308 that was broken at the wrist, a previous owner had glued it with what looked like hide glue, put a bolt through, and wrapped it copper wire and bulldog tape. He eventually found a used replacement stock with a crack in it to upgrade, which we epoxied .

 

[scootac]

.....just nervous about it. A lock and barrel coming back in my face would be the end of my hunting

And that's the last thing you want to be thinking about when shooting.
Confidence in a shot starts with the gun.

 

[Alan R McDaniel Jr]

Mr. Sprucegum and Mr. Richardson and I are in the same camp. Many guns of all shapes and sizes have had breaks at the wrist repaired in any number of ways throughout History. That break is very common especially in the days of lots or horseback work and crawling around on the ground dodging arrows and such. Personally, I would feel safe repairing it with epoxy, acraglass, or even Titebond III... I'd put a couple or few brass rods in strategic locations just for good measure. Aesthetics are dependent on your woodworking skills...

I'd feel better about shooting that rifle after repair than I would glueing or epoxying a wooden disc back together and spinning it at 3500 RPM and jobbing at it with a pointy knife a foot from my face, yet lots of folks do just that with great regularity.

I have a Mod 11 Remington 12 ga that I used for years in brackish water. The wrist was broken through and bound with leather thong and reinforced inside with acraglass. The forend was split in three places and glued together with Titebond with wallboard screws holding it tight. It's probably safer than when it was new, since the wrist broke and the forend split...

Take the barrel and hardware off, clean the surfaces with acetone, slather it with acraglass, clamp it, drill some holes and run some acraglass covered brass pins through where it doesn't interfere with the operation, let it dry, put releasing agent on the barrel and glass bed the whole thing. You'll come out better than new.

But, that's my opinion.

Alan

 

[Alan R McDaniel Jr]

My Great-great-grandfather's 10 ga double is split through the wrist but not completely. They never even bothered to fix it. Just held it a bit tighter and kept on shooting it. Last time it was shot was likely in late 50s. Then they hung it on the wall... Broken firing pins finally did it in. The Damascus barrels never kept my great-grand uncle from shooting it.

Many old sidelocks that were used regularly are broken or split like that.

For the uninitiated, a 10 ga creates a lot of recoil (both felt and actual), and the greatest danger (aside from blowing completely up) was likely pinching your hand in the broken stock.

I haven't done a lot of BP shooting but I have done some. I've got a flintlock, a percussion, and a cap and ball pistol...Oh and a Trade Gun project I picked up a while back. I find them to be relatively tame, even with hunting loads, compared to modern 12 ga or 30-06 class guns.

Alan

 

[pvwoodcrafts]

well Paul says he has repaired lots of these kind of breaks. Next time he's up he says he'll bring his epoxy and rods and repair it. Thank you Paul M. Will post pics if I can

 

[tocws2002]

well Paul says he has repaired lots of these kind of breaks. Next time he's up he says he'll bring his epoxy and rods and repair it. Thank you Paul M. Will post pics if I can

@pvwoodcrafts Any update on this? Did you ever repair the rifle stock? If so, have you shot it? Curious to see what repair (if any) you went with and how it has held up.

Thanks,
-jason

 

[pvwoodcrafts]

pics tomorrow if I can.Yes repaired and shot. worked great on this guy.

 

[tocws2002]

pics tomorrow if I can.Yes repaired and shot. worked great on this guy.

That's awesome! Congrats on the gun and the deer! Thanks for the update, looking forward to pics when you get them.

Glad you went with a repair. As i was reading through the posts, I was with the minority in thinking it could be fixed and used, versus retiring the gun.

-jason

 

[pvwoodcrafts]

OK. First a friend Paul Mitzel , with gunsmithing education told me no problem . He came and we put a treaded 3/32 pin in it. epoxied it in and epoxied the stock back together. While I just wanted the gun shootable I didn't bother with cosmetics of restaining the edges of cracks. I did however wrap almost the entire length with good ole dental floss , then a wrap of deerskin. Even if it didn't hold there was no way for the barrel to come back past repair. My wife had her cousin, Mountain Bob Brenneman make it for me our first Christmas. He has made near 300 muzzleloaders and was in almost 80 when he made this one. Has NEVER misfired. o come back past the repair. I've harvested 3 deer with it and don't anticipate the repair ever failing. o come back past the repair. I've harvested 3 deer with it and don't anticipate the repair ever failing.