@Cjdavey1
Decided to make info public. In intro you asked about bandsaw cutting, in message you asked about cutting straight at 30 degree table angle.
first- do you have new blade- teeth per inch and degree? 2. What wood?
I have 3 saws. perfect cutting can be illusive. You NEED a good blade. With some woods only the right blade will cut straight.
very little experience cutiing on bandsaw at an angle, this is what TS is for. With the table slanted for angle on BS, I think you would have to set saw up with guides to retain a consistent angle. This is why we converted TS to tilting arbor instead of tilting table and if you look at BS that are built for cutting angles accurately, Giant ship building saws- the table is secure and the saw tilts.
You take a brandnew 3tpi 8 degree ( my go to normal blade) and try to cut hounduran rosewood, it will not track, no matter how good set up is. But change to 3tpi 4 degree and if feed is right you can cut straight. I do not use the 3tpi 4 anymore because 1 saw is set up with woodmaster carbide 1.2 tpi 1.25 wide. cuts trough tough woods like butter. I doubt your saw can use that size of blade- nor does it have the power. But point is you need right blade for wood you are cutting.
also- practice-hours cutting and you get feel for saw.
SAFETY!!! I hate the my fingers got nibbled stories. I spent last 2 years+ cutting maple burl knife blanks- a few- probably 30K small ones- 4 x 1.25 and 3.9 x 1.125.
to retain finger tips you need rules strict rules. in the begining I used red sharpy to make an oval around blade. No finger area. I make my own push sticks. 1"x 1/4-1/2 x12" with small v at end. crude to say the least. But cheap effective and readily available cut offs.
Your description of injury cause is something that happens easily, but longer sticks give room to stop momentum. one stick or block to keep tight to fence and one to push.
Dull blades- NO. blades are cheap- fingers are not. dull blade makes you push harder, makes for bad cuts. Most BS problems are a dull blade- most do not believe that but...
I have a book somewhere that has so much info on BS and blades, I will find and post name. incredible amount of info on blades and set up.
Decided to make info public. In intro you asked about bandsaw cutting, in message you asked about cutting straight at 30 degree table angle.
first- do you have new blade- teeth per inch and degree? 2. What wood?
I have 3 saws. perfect cutting can be illusive. You NEED a good blade. With some woods only the right blade will cut straight.
very little experience cutiing on bandsaw at an angle, this is what TS is for. With the table slanted for angle on BS, I think you would have to set saw up with guides to retain a consistent angle. This is why we converted TS to tilting arbor instead of tilting table and if you look at BS that are built for cutting angles accurately, Giant ship building saws- the table is secure and the saw tilts.
You take a brandnew 3tpi 8 degree ( my go to normal blade) and try to cut hounduran rosewood, it will not track, no matter how good set up is. But change to 3tpi 4 degree and if feed is right you can cut straight. I do not use the 3tpi 4 anymore because 1 saw is set up with woodmaster carbide 1.2 tpi 1.25 wide. cuts trough tough woods like butter. I doubt your saw can use that size of blade- nor does it have the power. But point is you need right blade for wood you are cutting.
also- practice-hours cutting and you get feel for saw.
SAFETY!!! I hate the my fingers got nibbled stories. I spent last 2 years+ cutting maple burl knife blanks- a few- probably 30K small ones- 4 x 1.25 and 3.9 x 1.125.
to retain finger tips you need rules strict rules. in the begining I used red sharpy to make an oval around blade. No finger area. I make my own push sticks. 1"x 1/4-1/2 x12" with small v at end. crude to say the least. But cheap effective and readily available cut offs.
Your description of injury cause is something that happens easily, but longer sticks give room to stop momentum. one stick or block to keep tight to fence and one to push.
Dull blades- NO. blades are cheap- fingers are not. dull blade makes you push harder, makes for bad cuts. Most BS problems are a dull blade- most do not believe that but...
I have a book somewhere that has so much info on BS and blades, I will find and post name. incredible amount of info on blades and set up.
