Boat building

I made some progress this morning, everything fits pretty well except that my topsides are about 3/4" too long. I'm pretty good at cutting freehand in odd positions, tomorrow I will put a new blade on my little cordless saw and snip them off. Id do it this afternoon but the time change has me messed up, nap sounds like more fun 😊.View attachment 269364View attachment 269365View attachment 269366View attachment 269367
That's starting to look like a boat - So cool!
 
Lefty Kreh (a well known fishing author, etc) had a skiff. He painted one side red, and the other side blue or green, isn't important. He'd bring an extra shirt and hat with him. If he caught a photo worthy fish, he'd take a set of photos from one side of the skiff. Then change shirt and hat and take a second set of photos from the other side of the skiff. He'd have plenty of photos to add to articles. Just putting that idea out there for when you get ready to paint.
 
Lefty Kreh (a well known fishing author, etc) had a skiff. He painted one side red, and the other side blue or green, isn't important. He'd bring an extra shirt and hat with him. If he caught a photo worthy fish, he'd take a set of photos from one side of the skiff. Then change shirt and hat and take a second set of photos from the other side of the skiff. He'd have plenty of photos to add to articles. Just putting that idea out there for when you get ready to paint.
That would be useful for me, I'm really good at fishing, it's the catching that I have trouble with. 😂
 
I'm not sure I have the patience for that build. Looks like it's going to be a very solid boat with all of the structural bulkheads. I did some small fillets this morning, I used a body filler squeegee with the corner rounded, it worked really well for me. It's a bit like mudding drywall, just get the filler onto the wood the easiest way you can and wipe off the surplus. I've done enough trowel work over the years that it feels natural to me. When the small tack fillets cure I will remove the zip ties and reshape my squeegee for the larger fillets.
 
Hull bottom and side panels lofted, cut out, and planed to final dimensions. Just need to bevel the mating edges and drill holes and can start stitching. Will start to look like something like a boat soon!

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Hull bottom and side panels lofted, cut out, and planed to final dimensions. Just need to bevel the mating edges and drill holes and can start stitching. Will start to look like something like a boat soon!

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Very cool, you may be done before I am, mine has slowed down some with the spring weather. Did you find the lofting difficult? I've been dreaming about a more traditional build someday, most of those plans require lofting. I think it would be cool to mill my own lumber for a boat.
 
Very cool, you may be done before I am, mine has slowed down some with the spring weather. Did you find the lofting difficult? I've been dreaming about a more traditional build someday, most of those plans require lofting. I think it would be cool to mill my own lumber for a boat.
Not at all. Assuming you have a line plan and just need to loft it to wood, very simple. I can't imagine it is much more difficult than having a template and tracing it, as you did. And probably more accurate. Finding a long piece of straight-grained wood for the batten is probably the hardest part.

And I doubt seriously I'll get done even close to you - but we'll see. My goal is by end of summer - it is possible it could be done early summer if all goes well and my time allows... or it could get strung out if life gets in the way. It's good to have goals rather than deadlines.
 
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Just need an extra set or two of hands and I can get the bottom on...

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Whoever will be riding with you, they be those extra hands you need. Put them to work....
"I'd love to help you, but..."

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Fortunately, I was able to find another set of hands.

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Stitching the hull sides on comes next.
 
That's one smart dog (assuming you got him to help you position the bottom .... nevermind). Interesting method for setting the bottom - drilling holes and wiring the two halves together like that. Is that easier than just pin nailing one half in place and then butting the other half against it? Or is there another reason for doing it like that? I remember my Dad making little 8ft El Toro sailboats in his high school shop and don't recall him ever using that wire technique. Not saying it's bad or wrong, just haven't seen it done that way before.
 
That's one smart dog (assuming you got him to help you position the bottom .... nevermind). Interesting method for setting the bottom - drilling holes and wiring the two halves together like that. Is that easier than just pin nailing one half in place and then butting the other half against it? Or is there another reason for doing it like that? I remember my Dad making little 8ft El Toro sailboats in his high school shop and don't recall him ever using that wire technique. Not saying it's bad or wrong, just haven't seen it done that way before.
Stitching the 2 (curved) panels together then folding them open imparts the designed 3D curves into the hull bottom. At this point they are simply resting on the bulkheads (they would adopt a similar shape if opened the opposite way - upward - even without the bulkheads). I'll next stitch hull side panels to these bottom panels. Again, curves cut into the bottom and side panels will impart 3D curves once stitched. At that point, they'll begin to be glued (epoxied) together. Once cured, stitches will be removed and additional epoxy and ultimately glass applied for strength. There will be no nails or pins or screws in the hull or bulkheads, just wood, epoxy, and glass.
 
Stitching the 2 (curved) panels together then folding them open imparts the designed 3D curves into the hull bottom. At this point they are simply resting on the bulkheads (they would adopt a similar shape if opened the opposite way - upward - even without the bulkheads). I'll next stitch hull side panels to these bottom panels. Again, curves cut into the bottom and side panels will impart 3D curves once stitched. At that point, they'll begin to be glued (epoxied) together. Once cured, stitches will be removed and additional epoxy and ultimately glass applied for strength. There will be no nails or pins or screws in the hull or bulkheads, just wood, epoxy, and glass.
Did you twist those wires with the lineman pliers shown? ............ Nubs (a friend of Tclem)
 
Did you twist those wires with the lineman pliers shown? ............ Nubs (a friend of Tclem)
Yes.

I'm questioning your sanity, Nubs, what with your newfound friendship.
 
Yes.

I'm questioning your sanity, Nubs, what with your newfound friendship.
If you ever do this again, get yourself a 16D nail, cut the head off, bend it until it looks like a J, and put it in a drill. Tie the ends of the wire together, and use your drill to twist them. Piece of cake, and I'm not gonna charge you for that tip.

As far as my sanity goes, I've been questioning it for years. I'm sure Tony is questioning it also. .......... Nubs
 
Stitching the 2 (curved) panels together then folding them open imparts the designed 3D curves into the hull bottom. At this point they are simply resting on the bulkheads (they would adopt a similar shape if opened the opposite way - upward - even without the bulkheads). I'll next stitch hull side panels to these bottom panels. Again, curves cut into the bottom and side panels will impart 3D curves once stitched. At that point, they'll begin to be glued (epoxied) together. Once cured, stitches will be removed and additional epoxy and ultimately glass applied for strength. There will be no nails or pins or screws in the hull or bulkheads, just wood, epoxy, and glass.
The plans for my boat suggest zip ties as an alternative to wire, I already had a good supply so that's what I used. They probably take a little bigger hole but they are pretty easy.
 
I had to order more epoxy, I started with 1.5 gallons. I'm sure that I could have finished it with the 3 quart kit, but I opted for another 1.5 gallon. I'm pretty sure that I can find other wood working uses for the surplus. It's dries pretty clear so it should work for filling voids in turning blanks. I've been pricing marine paint, they don't give that stuff away 😞. Some people have good luck with porch and deck paint, I have a little dab left over from another project so I painted a test piece.
 
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