Buffing and waxing
- Thread starter Tclem
- Start date
I haven't used them, but from everything I've read, the PSI system is almost identical in form and function, for only $55. Just something to look in to. I know that @Macdietrich has that system and spoke very highly of it when I visited. I've got the PSI system ordered, but it hasn't arrived yet.
EDIT - I'm referring to the 3 wheel buffing system for the lathe.
EDIT - I'm referring to the 3 wheel buffing system for the lathe.
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I have the grinder mounted big wheel system and have used it a little bit, Does a nice job and seems worth it. one of these days i'll use it on larger projects and probably post a review.
Another option you may want to consider is using rotten stone and with parafin oil or mineral oil as a lubricant. Cody Kilgore suggested this in a thread a while back, I tried it and it works fantastic. I already had the stuff on hand because I have tried it before to rub out furniture pieces (a lot of work) but with the piece spinning on the lathe, it's a breeze. Forget about micromesh, just sand to 400 or so, hit it with some fine steel wool, and hit it with the rottenstone powder. A container of rottonstone like Rockler sells will last forever. It only works for buffing on the lathe, off the lathe you would need something like the Beale I guess. I have the Don Pencil system, but it uses individual large buffing wheels that you change out, good for large stuff, but the 3 wheel system would probably be more convenient for small things.
I use the Beall Buff System in combination with other finishing techniques (ie/ I'm not buffing the wood, so much as the finish I put on the wood.) It works fantastically.
I will say this however -- If you're NOT going to be buffing the wood, and instead buffing the finish you put on the wood... I would avoid the carnauba wax. Most good finishes that you'll apply will seal the wood pretty well, and the carnauba wax get's cloudy / weird if it comes in contact with any water. From conversations I had with the Beall people directly, the Carnauba wax is there mainly for people buffing the wood itself, and adding a protective coat to keep it looking nice. The tripoli and white diamond, however, are wonderful and make a noticeable difference on the finish.
To do bowls effectively, you really need the normal wheel as well as the bowl buff wheel for tripoli and white diamond. You can save some money just by not ordering the Carnauba wax / wheel / bowl buff. Also, you can save money by ordering directly from the Beall website, as it's cheaper there than pretty much anywhere else. (They use a cheap flat rate shipping charge too, it was a good deal.)
Hope this helps!
I will say this however -- If you're NOT going to be buffing the wood, and instead buffing the finish you put on the wood... I would avoid the carnauba wax. Most good finishes that you'll apply will seal the wood pretty well, and the carnauba wax get's cloudy / weird if it comes in contact with any water. From conversations I had with the Beall people directly, the Carnauba wax is there mainly for people buffing the wood itself, and adding a protective coat to keep it looking nice. The tripoli and white diamond, however, are wonderful and make a noticeable difference on the finish.
To do bowls effectively, you really need the normal wheel as well as the bowl buff wheel for tripoli and white diamond. You can save some money just by not ordering the Carnauba wax / wheel / bowl buff. Also, you can save money by ordering directly from the Beall website, as it's cheaper there than pretty much anywhere else. (They use a cheap flat rate shipping charge too, it was a good deal.)
Hope this helps!
I used the Beall System (3 wheels and 3 compounds) for years. I "graduated" to the Don Pencil buff and his PL compound, and haven't used the tripoli or white diamond since. I use buffing to finish my finishes, not to polish unfinished wood. I still use the wax and wax wheel and have never had a problem with it....but typically I put Renaissance over the carnuba so maybe that is why. Tripoli is just coarse enough that it would occasionally burn through a finish...and the buffing wheel needed to be cleaned (raked) before every use. Pencil's PL compound is faster, easier, and gentler, and I've never burned a finish with it.
I've also used rottenstone, pumice, a variety of "deluxing" (rubbing) compounds, automotive polishes, toothpaste, baking soda, and etc., and each will do something to modify a finish. It's fun to try different things, and you never know when your experience will give you that special look for that special piece of work.
I've also used rottenstone, pumice, a variety of "deluxing" (rubbing) compounds, automotive polishes, toothpaste, baking soda, and etc., and each will do something to modify a finish. It's fun to try different things, and you never know when your experience will give you that special look for that special piece of work.
I bought 3 wheels from HarborFreight and made a "mandrel" for each of them out of wood (using the Beall wood tap that matches my lathe drive shaft). There's one wheel for each of the tripoli, white diamond, and carnauba wax. Having them on these mandrels allows me to get inside bowls much easier than if all 3 were lined up along a single bar.
(If I remember tonight I'll snap pix to show you what I mean.)
(If I remember tonight I'll snap pix to show you what I mean.)
I picked up the three wheel setup from an estate sale for $10... Heck of a deal! It's great for just about everything except the inside of bowls where you'd need the bowl buffs(or equivalent). I rarely use the wax and often stop after the tripoli wheel. It's great for CA finishes and eliminates the need for micromesh if you do what Barry suggested(sand to 400 or 600, steel wool, then buff).
I use it too and I am completely satisfied with it!
Sorry Tony, I forgot about the pix I was going to take of the things I made. Here's one of them -- I turned the wooden piece, drilled a hole all the way through for the bolt, drilled it out and tapped it so it screws onto the drive shaft. Being open on the right hand side means I can work the inside of bowls easier than if it was mounted on a mandrel that runs between head and tailstock.
You can probably do this with the wheels that come in the PSI set if you wish.
You can probably do this with the wheels that come in the PSI set if you wish.
