Ca finish and bushings

fredito

fredito

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I have been working on my ca finish (long way to go yet!) and would like to try it on some pens. To date I have been using friction finish on the pens I have made. My question is, how do you guys keep your bushings from getting stuck? I have seen the nylon things they make to go on the mandrel, seen wax used on the end of the blank or I could probably go to the hardware store and find nylon washers....or do you feel it's best just to best just to stick with the friction finish. My ca routine I've been using is ca and blo.
Thanks
 
The nylon (or delrin or UHMW or whatever they are) conical bushings work very well. I sometimes use them, other times I just use a 60 degree conical dead center in the headstock and a 60 degree conical live center in the tail stock. Don't tighten too far or the centers will expand the ends of the brass tubes (probably splitting the blank), just enough to grip to make them turn without slipping.

(edit: personally, I prefer CA on pens over any other finish I've tried ... but Les's dipping method is something I'm planning to try when it warms up a bit in my garage.)
 
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After milling or sanding the ends of your blanks, dab some paste wax on them before assembling with bushings on the mandrel. Works for me. If the bushing feels stuck, snap the connection loose while still on the mandrel, I think it helps keep the ends of the blank from splitting out.
 
The nylon/delrin/whatever bushings have worked well for me. I've worn my set out and was going to buy another set, but found a 4' piece of delrin rod for not much more than the cost of 2 sets of the finishing bushings. I know I'll find other things to use it for, but as it stands, I've got enough material to make my own finishing bushings for life - and then some.
 
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Dang! You are set with that rod...it wouldn't be to hard to drill a hole, turn a little bit of a cone on it and you have a set of finish bushings...good find
 
Duncan is spot on. Don't even use bushings just a live and dead center that is 60 degrees. I dumped bushings a lot time ago and haven't looked back. My results with a micrometer is perfect fit and finish. Here is a pic for an example. image.webp
 
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Sprung said:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FKNPCVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$14.03. Shipped for free since I have Amazon Prime. You too can be set with bushing material for life, lol!
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That is pretty darn awesome. That's not bushings for life, that's also leaving bushings in your will for your grand kids stuff right there!

Bean_counter said:
Duncan is spot on. Don't even use bushings just a live and dead center that is 60 degrees. I dumped bushings a lot time ago and haven't looked back. My results with a micrometer is perfect fit and finish. Here is a pic for an example. View attachment 71682
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I think this is a great way to go and really respect people who can do this. I struggle with extremely fine measurements and need to practice more. My shop time is limited with kids, work, ect so for the time being, I have stuck with bushings simply for the ease. Again, that is simply awesome you can do that, I have a hard time getting fits at time with bushings!
 
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You could make a few pens out of the extra....
 
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rdabpenman said:
TBC and FBC is the only way to go.
Solves a lot of turning and finishing issues.

Les
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Help me out with this one. I looked in the acronym list and couldn't find them.
Thanks!

Edit: right after I posted it dawned on me...turn between centers, finish between centers
 
I've got cheaper, easier solution. I leave the regular bushings on, and instead of applying the CA with the lathe on, I rub it into the wood with a paper towel. Keeps the CA off of the bushing for the most part, and keeps the rings of ca from building up.
 
I agree with finishing between centers. Not only do you avoid that sticking problem that comes with bushings but you'll find the finish is equal at the ends of the blank. It's a much more even finish
 
This is actually a great subject/discussion. Mainly, for me, because when I first started doing pens, I used a friction polish finish (Shellawax...or however you spell it). Then I started using CA. The process seemed to take to long for me. Sorry, too impatient. So, I got the StickFast CA kit. Worked fairly well, and was quick, but I was having horrible crackling issues (after the fact...sometimes months later). I gave up on that, and started using WTF (WoodTurners Finish) and I get a really nice clear beautiful finish with it. The question is how will it hold up in the long term...especially compared to CA?

But this is what is interesting to me. Shellawax gives a really nice initial finish/look that I love. Eventually, it dulls making the pen 'look' less stunning. HOWEVER, I have to admit that I like the 'feel' of a pen with a friction polish better than with CA/WTF. I like the feeling of wood. Not plastic/glue.

So, I guess the answer to you the OP's question is: Use what you like. Pitch your finish as a finish that YOU chose for a specific reason. Some will/may like it. Others may not. But you can't, as they say, please all the people all the time. Bottom line is that a well made pen (good kit, turned/sanded with no marks, sanded way down to super smooth) is a good pen.
 
The method I apply CA doesn't require sanding. I only use a super secret polish to make them look like glass.
 
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@MikeMD I agree with you on this one. I'm playing around with finishes trying to figure out what I like. I do love the ease of a friction finish but always hear about ca finishes. I wonder about the difference between blo and spray as the accelerator with ca. I'm sure one is better but I have not compared the two and I'm certain my finishing is not as good as a lot of guys. What I want in the long run is a durable finish that pops the wood...it's crazy there are so many ways to get to that though
 
I should clarify my post above - I leave the blank on the bushings, and while the lathe is off, I put the CA onto a blue paper towel and work the CA into the wood. I hit it with accelerator, and then use a higher grit friction polish (not made for woodworking), then add another coat, and then a round of higher and finer grit polish to get a glass like appearance.
 
fredito said:
Help me out with this one. I looked in the acronym list and couldn't find them.
Thanks!

Edit: right after I posted it dawned on me...turn between centers, finish between centers
Click to expand...


I should add that to the list.....
 
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