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drying box queston

Here's another idea: our internet/TV provider sent us new TV boxes and said they don't want the old ones back (which seems like a waste to me). Anyway, I switched ours and noticed the old one has a fan mounted in the back. The cover grate is about 2" square so a pretty small fan. I suspect it is powered by plugging in a multi-pin plug into a mother board inside, so power would have to be figured out. So, if anyone's in the market for a small fan, keep you eye out for old TV boxes, old computer cases, etc.
 
If this is meant to be used repeatedly, I would be concerned using a cardboard box as moisture given up will destroy the box. I used to use an old dishwasher with a cheap thermometer showing temp inside. I used various combinations of 40, 60, and 100 watt bulbs to slowly bring temp up and open periodically to remove water build up..later I drilled hole in base of tub to take water to drain. Not necessary if wood already partially dry. Been a while since I had it, but seem to recall slowly increasing total wattage till about 120 or 130F obtained. @Mike1950 or others familiar with kiln drying can probably suggest ideal temp to kill any bug activity. Techniques will vary by the wood, regardless a slow process will help prevent excessive cracking.
 
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TimR said:
If this is meant to be used repeatedly, I would be concerned using a cardboard box as moisture given up will destroy the box. I used to use an old dishwasher with a cheap thermometer showing temp inside. I used various combinations of 40, 60, and 100 watt bulbs to slowly bring temp up and open periodically to remove water build up..later I drilled hole in base of tub to take water to drain. Not necessary if wood already partially dry. Been a while since I had it, but seem to recall slowly increasing total wattage till about 120 or 130F obtained. @Mike1950 or others familiar with kiln drying can probably suggest ideal temp to kill any bug activity. Techniques will vary by the wood, regardless a slow process will help prevent excessive cracking.
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I agree, cardboard is bad choice. Zero insulation and high humidity.
130-140 internal temp for 24 hrs ro fry the little buggers.
 
Also need indoor/digital thermometer, cheap, goes in same hole use incandescent bulbs, make vents twice as big as you think. Easy to shut and hard to make bigger.you will be surprised as to how much heat a 15 watt bulb puts out in an insulated sealed box.
 
rob3232 said:
Only problem is that the heat source (light bulb)shuts off when you close the door :sofa:
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Most guys simply remove the kill switch button along the door so the light stays on. Long stem turkey fryer thermometer works through the side of the fridge as well.
 
JonathanH said:
Let me know what you would like. A Cedar Elm was just cut down across the street and I've been cutting it up for blanks.
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Looking for a flatsawn sample and a 1/4 sawn sample. Samples finish at 3"wide x 6" long x 1/2 thick.

So anything a bit bigger that I can season and work down later would be great. Just ask you to wax ends as who knows how long shipping would take or how many temperture extremes they might encounter.
 
DLJeffs said:
Here's another idea: our internet/TV provider sent us new TV boxes and said they don't want the old ones back (which seems like a waste to me). Anyway, I switched ours and noticed the old one has a fan mounted in the back. The cover grate is about 2" square so a pretty small fan. I suspect it is powered by plugging in a multi-pin plug into a mother board inside, so power would have to be figured out. So, if anyone's in the market for a small fan, keep you eye out for old TV boxes, old computer cases, etc.
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Sounds like the right size for a tiny drying box.

I dismantled a convection/standard oven combo and found to my delight that the fan was 110v . Those don't move a ton of air either since they really don't give a lot of ventilation on an oven.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #35
I have another dumb question: if you end seal wood so it will dry slower withput cracks, why use a drying box, it makes the wood dry faster which you don't want because it is supposed to dry slow. Seems like one is conradicting the other. What am I missing thanks
 
Mike, simply put - sealing the end grain ( which is like the end of straws in an imaginary piece of wood- where water moves through the tree) slows rapid moisture loss in favor of slower controlled moisture through side grain. Sealed end grain and the drying box promotes that type of controlled moisture loss.
 
Karda said:
I have another dumb question: if you end seal wood so it will dry slower withput cracks, why use a drying box, it makes the wood dry faster which you don't want because it is supposed to dry slow. Seems like one is conradicting the other. What am I missing thanks
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What you want to achieve is the fastest possible drying without cracking. For some species that means a drying box. It also lets you control the final moisture content.
 
Big issue is movement, some woods have a large separation in movement, as in how much the wood shrinks in diameter versus lengthwise. Water excapes far faster from the ends, however the middle is still loaded with water. So the ends want to shrink as they dry but the middle can't because it is still water loaded, so there are these powerful forces. The middle holds and the ends check to release and ease the forces. Sealing the ends allows as said above a more even loss of moisture and limits end checking.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #39
I have another question, I checked my thermoeter in my drying box and it won't go over 80 degrees farenhiet. is that ok or should I get a highewr wattage bulb
 
Karda said:
I have another question, I checked my thermoeter in my drying box and it won't go over 80 degrees farenhiet. is that ok or should I get a highewr wattage bulb
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80 is higher than room temp, I assume, so that is enough to trigger air flow and can work.
 
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