*Ended* Redwood Burl block

J

JD1137

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John
Have this nice piece of Redwood Burl. 11.5” square x 5.5” thick. Asking $150 plus shipping. Pics of all sides plus wet.

IMG_8470.webp IMG_8471.webp IMG_8472.webp IMG_8473.webp
 
Ok. I am weaker than weak. But I’ll save Phil from having to buy it by taking it.
 
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OMG. Received and it’s the most beautiful wood I’ve seen. Thank you, thank you. I may just frame it and not turn it.
 
Alancw said:
OMG. Received and it’s the most beautiful wood I’ve seen. Thank you, thank you. I may just frame it and not turn it.
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If you do decide to cut it up I'll buy a chunk off of you. You still looking for the alligator juniper?
 
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  • #14
Alancw said:
OMG. Received and it’s the most beautiful wood I’ve seen. Thank you, thank you. I may just frame it and not turn it.
Click to expand...
Glad you like it Alan. I was tempted more than once to use that up myself! LOL

Hey, also wanted to ask if you’ve worked any Redwood before? I’m only asking because you should research what products to use as a finish. That wood will soak up finish like a sponge.

I know oils can really darken the wood. Surface finishes might(?) be more desirable.

Maybe you can ask about it in the “wood discussion” forum. I’m sure others on WB have experience and opinions about finishes for Redwood.

I made a couple bowls out of some Redwood Burl probably 4+ years ago and don’t remember if I used Walnut Oil or possibly Tried and True, both penetrating products. I was satisfied with the way the bowls looked as they were made to be utilitarian anyway.

I know you like to do hollow forms, so my thought is maybe a lacquer or poly film finish?? I’m not an expert on it.

Also, if you can keep a few of the corner pieces, if you round any of it on your bandsaw, you can sand these scraps the same as you sand your finished piece and then test the finish on the scrap first.

Apologies if this is all redundant to you, but might be good information for others too.
John
 
I’ve worked Redwood, and found it a softer wood than I expected. But takes finish nicely. Chuck
 
JD1137 said:
Glad you like it Alan. I was tempted more than once to use that up myself! LOL

Hey, also wanted to ask if you’ve worked any Redwood before? I’m only asking because you should research what products to use as a finish. That wood will soak up finish like a sponge.

I know oils can really darken the wood. Surface finishes might(?) be more desirable.

Maybe you can ask about it in the “wood discussion” forum. I’m sure others on WB have experience and opinions about finishes for Redwood.

I made a couple bowls out of some Redwood Burl probably 4+ years ago and don’t remember if I used Walnut Oil or possibly Tried and True, both penetrating products. I was satisfied with the way the bowls looked as they were made to be utilitarian anyway.

I know you like to do hollow forms, so my thought is maybe a lacquer or poly film finish?? I’m not an expert on it.

Also, if you can keep a few of the corner pieces, if you round any of it on your bandsaw, you can sand these scraps the same as you sand your finished piece and then test the finish on the scrap first.

Apologies if this is all redundant to you, but might be good information for others too.
John
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This is all great info and appreciated!
 
My experience with redwood is it has a wide wide range of density, depending on what part of the tree the wood comes from. Redwood was used for decking for years and that wood was the consistency of cedar. But if you got a piece from a big tree, down near the root wad, it could be hard as maple and heavy as ebony. The light stuff soaks up finish just as you'd expect and turns darker. The denser stuff not so much. This reel seat is made from redwood burl stabilized and it didn't darken much. No finish, just sanded to 1500 and buffed.

redwood burl.webp
 
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