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Hand plane users

Fret440

Fret440

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Midland, tx
First name
Jacob
This is sort of a poll, I guess. I'm interested to find out what other WB'ers are using for hand planes. Old school or new school? Stanley, Record, Miller's Falls, Dunlap, Craftsman? Or infills (new or old)? Or new stuff like Lie Neilson, Veritas, Woodriver, Anant, Queshang?

Most importantly, why? And how well do they work?


Right now, I have a couple of old Stanley's, a Miller's Falls, a Dunlap, and a Stanley handyman. I find that the old Stanley's and the Miller's Falls tend to outperform the other planes, and I'm not really sure why. Maybe they weigh a couple extra ounces? .??

Jacob
 
Probably have 20+ planes- most have not been restored. Have an LN block, chisel and large shoulder plane and a veritas Med and 3/8 shoulder. If money did not matter I would have more LN's. The quality and thick blades speak for themselves.
Go to planes are Stanley 3,4 and 5. Dulap-craftsman and others were made by stanely and sold under another name. That might have something to do with difference.
I am a power tool guy and use the planes to fine tune. My 7's sit collecting dust on the shelves.
 
I use a few, mostly older Stanley. My two go to planes are a 5 and my 45.
 
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  • #4
Mike, have you tried the Veritas smoothers? Why the LN? Seem pretty pricey for a hunk of metal...

Jacob
 
I started with some cheapy ones from Woodcraft forget the name right now. They work better than the reviews indicated. I have since scoured fleamarkets and got a few nice old Stanley/ Baileys. Haven't used any of them much lately I am waiting on a sharpening system that I ordered.
 
Fret440 said:
Mike, have you tried the Veritas smoothers? Why the LN? Seem pretty pricey for a hunk of metal...

Jacob
Click to expand...


I have a few Stanley block plane and one LN- if I sharpen them and use them your question is answered immediately. The thick blade of the LN does not flex or chatter and keeps an edge twice as long. If you look at LN used price- they keep their value. as far as the shoulder planes- LN and veritas are about the same price. They both are very quality tools. I really do not use smoother plane- well-except for my 15" delta.
Have you tried an LN?
I have multiple tenon/dovetail saws. Just traded for a LN dovetail saw - the other will be in permanent retirement- there is that big of a difference. There is something to be said for buy once/buy quality............
 
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  • #7
Mike, I don't have anyone near me that sells these. That's partly why I'm looking to see what WB'ers use. I know what you mean by "buy quality/buy once", and that's at the core of my question. I don't have the funds to order and try all the brands just to sell the ones I don't like at a discount.

Jacob
 
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  • #8
Blueglass said:
I started with some cheapy ones from Woodcraft forget the name right now. They work better than the reviews indicated. I have since scoured fleamarkets and got a few nice old Stanley/ Baileys. Haven't used any of them much lately I am waiting on a sharpening system that I ordered.
Click to expand...
When you get those stanley's sharpened, I'd like to know how they stack up. Was the Woodcraft version the WoodRiver planes?

Jacob
 
Jacob, a good stanely sharpened and tuned will do the job. I love the 3 that I have, They made great tools. I also have a 40/scrub -if you want a workout you can start on a big slab with it. sure makes chips when sharp.
 
No the name starts with a G... made in India. They don't even sell them anymore. Basically a copy of a Stanely. The No.5 I got from the fleamarket needs a refurb but should be really sweet when I get done. It has the corragated bottom which just looks cool. Someone painted the sides though.
 
I only have old Stanley's. My "newest" is a post WWII #4.
I use 3, 4 and 6C, 40 scrub and numerous block planes. My ultimate favorite is 18 with a knuckle joint cap. And of course a 78 and two 45's.

The 3 and 6C have Hock blades and chip breaker. The thicker blade and stouter chip breaker do make a difference, but I've found the original blades work well if sharp and the planes mouths are tight and have square front edges.

All my planes were the rust buckets found at flea markets.
 
Blueglass, the name you are thinking of is Groz. I bought a couple a while back. The number 4 works quite well after I tuned it. The block plane is awesome too. The blade on the number 3 is crap. Too brittle I think? Nicked bad on the first stroke. Ultimately, the blades aren't the highest quality but they do work well if sharpened. I have an old dunlop that I found in my dad's garage. It works well with the blade sharp. It fell off my bench once, and the casting broke but it still works.
 
Just picked up a Firestone number 6 the other day, going to tune it and see how it does.
 
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  • #15
Minor update. I've tuned up the "new" Woodriver no.4 that I picked up a couple of weeks back and have used it a few times now. Some observations... It is indeed hefty. The casting is almost twice as thick as the casting on my Stanley no.6 and my millers falls no.5. I think it weighs as much, maybe slightly more than my no.5. It will take gossamer thin shavings with little effort. I think the heft adds something here. Think my grand kids will be using this plane. Fit and finish is top notch. Everything 'works' out of the box and with the basic tuning is excellent. Very much worth my paying price of $60. ($100 with the chisels at 40) (So, that might have been a tool gloat, willing to bet it's like comparing a Ferrari and Lamborghini...wait wood forum, ABW and Ebony.)

Jacob
 
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