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How deep does this stain go in this walnut slab?

bradleyheathhays

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I'm surfacing this 2" walnut slab on the CNC, and I'm wondering what this dark coloring is on the lighter sap wood and how deep it goes? I don't have a lot of experience with walnut, and I haven't seen this kind of coloring in other peoples' projects, so I don't know what to think.

Will this unwanted dark color possibly lessen as I take more layers off?

walnut 1.JPG

walnut 2.JPG
 

daniscool

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I'm surfacing this 2" walnut slab on the CNC, and I'm wondering what this dark coloring is on the lighter sap wood and how deep it goes? I don't have a lot of experience with walnut, and I haven't seen this kind of coloring in other peoples' projects, so I don't know what to think.

Will this unwanted dark color possibly lessen as I take more layers off?

View attachment 288885

View attachment 288886
It be is unlikely to lessen. If it is visible from the other side and/or the edge, then you can’t really get rid of it by thicknessing. You could table saw it off. It looks interesting though. Why remove it?
 

DLJeffs

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Agreed. That stain entered the sap wood from the outside, not from the side you're surfacing. Therefore, if the stain is present on both sides of your board, it most surely goes all the way through.
 

bradleyheathhays

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Thanks for all the advice guys. And everyone is right, its gone deeper as I've taken off more layers. Oh well.

How can I avoid getting this coloration in the future? The place I got it only carries rough sawn wood and it's not easy to see the coloring from the rough surface. Is there any way to do a quick surface cleanup there in the yard so I know what I'm getting myself into?
 

vegas urban lumber

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small hand plane
any log left laying prior to sawing has the potential to spalt, any trees growing under adverse conditions or in varying soil conditions have the potential for mixed coloration in sap wood. any wood affected by beetle kill, or dead standing conditions may also be such affected.
if climate change does exist, stress factors on living trees often create color variation in wood, not always for the best, but sometimes a great enhancement such insect damage in flame box elder
 
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Mr. Peet

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Thanks for all the advice guys. And everyone is right, its gone deeper as I've taken off more layers. Oh well.

How can I avoid getting this coloration in the future? The place I got it only carries rough sawn wood and it's not easy to see the coloring from the rough surface. Is there any way to do a quick surface cleanup there in the yard so I know what I'm getting myself into?
Simple answer is go somewhere else. Go where the wood is surfaced. Or buy from a mill direct only fresh cut and then you can prep and dry the wood. Walnut is a fun one and can be interesting. Some of the steam kilns use a system that pulls color from the heartwood into the sapwood and you loose the light wood color.

The hand plane is a good idea if you continue to go to the same supplier.
 

2feathers Creative Making

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You are getting air dried lumber that stayed moist too long..if you want to use his lumber, but want it sharply contrasting, you likely need to buy it fresh cut. You can look at the contrast by water washing the board at that point. And if it is the contrast level you want, take it home and dry it yourself. He may have had a couple logs that laid out on the yard for a time. If that is the case, the color was in there when it was sawn and you merely need to leave it with him and buy a different board.

As mentioned by several others, once dry, hand plane. Harbor fright sells a very small one that you could put in your pocket when you visit your supplier.
I have sawn both type of trees, prestined and clean high contrast. If your Sawyer cuts a lot, he won't know which board is from which tree. If only a few, he likely can.tell you which is best contrast boards.

Honestly, very few keep the sapwood. It is viewed as a defect in commercial furniture which is why the steam treatment to pull more color into it.
 

Mike1950

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Lots of great info here. If you look at it as flaw, you need a different board. Sapwood has no rules. Can bet stark white thru tan. Picture to show you darkest walnut sap i have found.
The small plane is great idea. Ask first though. Buy fresh cut and kiln dry is your best chance. Not steamed.
Ps I cut this off 20+ inch wide boards.

20260525_073357.jpg
 

TimR

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If you get mineral stains on walnut and you don’t like it…avoid wood near fence or property lines where wire fencing may have been. If you get a lot from these areas, ma be worth getting a wood wizard or other metal detector.
I’m with others that consider the stains as a bonus.

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bradleyheathhays

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Thanks for the advice Tim. I like the coloration in your example, but I'm not sure it'll work out in my sign. I think it might be a little distracting, although I'm probably being too picky.
 

TimR

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Apologies I probably didn’t read that specific issue. Have you tried staining the sapwood ?
 

bradleyheathhays

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Apologies I probably didn’t read that specific issue. Have you tried staining the sapwood ?
Interesting idea. Most of the sign will be finished with a .5mm bull nose bit with some crevices too narrow to allow for finish sanding. Wonder how to approach staining, given the potential for uneven color penetration.
 
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Nature Man

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Interesting idea. Most of the sign will be finished with a .5mm bull nose bit with some crevices too narrow to allow for finish sanding. Wonder how to approach staining, given the potential for uneven staining.
You might try on a piece of scrap wood first, just to see if staining is an option.
 
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