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Jet 14" bandsaw $475

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  • #21
Thank you all for the advice, helped my confidence. I'm now the proud owner of this saw. Just have to figure out how to get it out of my truck now. I need to get a mobile base for it too. And invent a new project so I can try it out.

Interestingly, the guy was a guitar builder, mostly classical guitars. He was taught by Milburn of Milburn guitars. He said he probably made over a 100 guitars over the years but arthritis and age made him decide to give it up and move to Wash. He and his wife were originally from Colorado, as were my wife and I so we shared stories of the old days skiing, camping, fishing. Real nice couple, I wish them well.
 
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Did you take it apart to move it? When I moved mine a few times I took the table off and removed the saw frame frome the base. Much more manageable in smaller pieces. All that cast iron is heavy. I also removed the motor, again more weight.
Now we need better pics:foto:
 
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  • #23
woodtickgreg said:
Did you take it apart to move it? When I moved mine a few times I took the table off and removed the saw frame frome the base. Much more manageable in smaller pieces. All that cast iron is heavy. I also removed the motor, again more weight.
Now we need better pics:foto:
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No, John and i just manhandled it into the truck. I'll get my buddy or his son to stop by and we'll reverse that process. I think it only weighs around 325-350lbs, so a 2 person lift.
 
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  • #25
Mike1950 said:
Cool. Watch the Snodgrass ? Video on set up. Learn a little about blades-cheaper than ruining blades.
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He gave me 3 blades plus the one on the saw. Might all be pretty dull, not sure. When I get to that I'll be back for more advice from the peanut gallery.

And thanks for the call on the Snodgrass video on set up. That was really helpful and learned some stuff.
 
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  • #26
Need your help again:

I'm putting together a mobile base for this band saw. Bought the one from Harbor Freight. It seems pretty sturdy and is widely adjustable with bigger caster wheels which should make it a little easier to roll around. Here's my questions.

1. The enclosed base of the band saw is rectangular, roughly 17.75" x 14.5". The long dimension runs parallel to the wheels on the saw (see photo page 1) Is there a recommended size to put the locking casters? I can put them so they sit under the heavy frame of the saw (opposite the table) or I can put them on the side underneath the fence. OR... I can put the locking casters on the short side.

2. There is a welded bar on the underside of the corners on the bandsaw base and these bars have holes drilled in them. The corner pieces of the mobile base also have holes drilled in them and a quick check it looks like I can align those holes and bolt the saw base to the mobile base. I have sufficient adjustment in the mobile base frame to do this. But it will leave about 1" of exposed open space between the outside edge of the saw base and the outer edge of the corner on the mobile base. Do you recommend bolting the saw base to the mobile base or just let it rest inside the mobile base frame?
 
DLJeffs said:
Need your help again:

I'm putting together a mobile base for this band saw. Bought the one from Harbor Freight. It seems pretty sturdy and is widely adjustable with bigger caster wheels which should make it a little easier to roll around. Here's my questions.

1. The enclosed base of the band saw is rectangular, roughly 17.75" x 14.5". The long dimension runs parallel to the wheels on the saw (see photo page 1) Is there a recommended size to put the locking casters? I can put them so they sit under the heavy frame of the saw (opposite the table) or I can put them on the side underneath the fence. OR... I can put the locking casters on the short side.

2. There is a welded bar on the underside of the corners on the bandsaw base and these bars have holes drilled in them. The corner pieces of the mobile base also have holes drilled in them and a quick check it looks like I can align those holes and bolt the saw base to the mobile base. I have sufficient adjustment in the mobile base frame to do this. But it will leave about 1" of exposed open space between the outside edge of the saw base and the outer edge of the corner on the mobile base. Do you recommend bolting the saw base to the mobile base or just let it rest inside the mobile base frame?
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My bandsaw just sits in the base, not attached, and has worked out just fine. I don’t have locking wheels, which is a pain when processing larger chunks of wood. Chuck
 
Most likely utilization is with the frame towards a wall and the table towards the center of the room - to give the most space for long pieces of lumber. If that is true for you, orient wheels in the direction that allows you to push the machine towards the wall and pull it from the wall. I'm assuming the wheels don't rotate laterally. I'd put locking wheels on the side away from the wall for ease of access... but if wheels are oriented perpendicular to the direction of cut, you'll rarely need to worry about locking them.
 
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  • #29
SENC said:
Most likely utilization is with the frame towards a wall and the table towards the center of the room - to give the most space for long pieces of lumber. If that is true for you, orient wheels in the direction that allows you to push the machine towards the wall and pull it from the wall. I'm assuming the wheels don't rotate laterally. I'd put locking wheels on the side away from the wall for ease of access... but if wheels are oriented perpendicular to the direction of cut, you'll rarely need to worry about locking them.
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Thanks Henry and Chuck, that aligns with what I'm thinking. I'll put the lift wheels that pivot under the table, the fixed wheels under the non-working side. That keeps the extension / tripping hazard away from the side I will stand on when cutting. It also means I'll be pushing / pulling the saw along the long dimension which I think will be more stable. I'll also bolt the saw to the mobile base provided the holes will line up. That's tomorrow's job when my buddy comes down to help lift the saw.
 
My 14" delta just sits on the base. Rolling it around I've never had it tip or feel unstable. It's quite heavy so gravity does its job.
 
Same here. Not attached. 450-600 and 750 lbs but I do not move them very often. I think this saw will have to move. Sure would not hurt anything.
 
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  • #32
Thanks guys. My buddy's coming over this afternoon to provide the muscle so we can lift it off the moving dolly and onto the mobile base. We'll tip it far enough that I can check if the holes will line up to allow me to bolt it to the base. If not, the decision is made for me. If the holes line up I think I'll bolt it on. When I roll stuff out into my driveway, there is just enough of a gap between the garage floor and asphalt driveway that stuff sometimes gets stuck and will tip if I don't help it out of the space. At least if the saw is bolted on the whole thing will tip and when I lift the saw the base will come with it.
 
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  • #33
Holes in the base of the saw didn't line up with the holes in the mobile base, so it's just sitting in the base. But seems to be stable enough, rolls easily, turns okay (only two wheels swivel so it's a little clunky). I got in a hurry and put the locking casters under the opposite side of the saw I wanted to, but it's okay. I didn't notice until my buddy had already left. If it becomes a problem we can always rotate the saw 180 degrees.
bandsaw.jpg

next up, walk myself through the sit up procedures.
 
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  • #34
I've used my band saw for a couple small jobs and so far it seems to work well. Haven't done any resawing yet. The blade that's on there now I think is around 6=8 TPI (haven't measured it to be sure).

But here's my question - is it worth it to switch out the cool blocks for roller bearing guides? What I see on line seems to say that cool blocks are better for smaller blades and they can help reduce build up on the blade if you cut sappy stuff. But roller bearings are better for wider blades and don't have to be replaced or adjusted like cool blocks, which wear out as you use them. I'm interested on what you band saw users on here think.
Thanks
Doug
 
I have had old time mental on 150 20" Rockwell. Put ceramic on, took back off, I do not like sparks sucked into DC. Bearings on the 3 I have. Bearings need replaced, especially if you cut wet wood but they do last. Never had cool blocks but probably better on small saw.
6-8 tpi I have used on hard stuff. Coco etc. 3 tpi is what I use.
 
I have an old delta 14" Cool blocks are fine on it and are less likely to damage a blade if not set right. I rarely have to adjust them but when I do it's an easy task. Also cool blocks are cheaper than bearings. I don't run real wide blades so the blocks are fine.
 
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  • #37
Can anyone offer advice for setting the proper tension on a band saw blade? I've tried to google it and haven't found it anywhere, yet. I've watched that one guy (recommended on here) who is a bandsaw guru explain how he sets up his bandsaw but he doesn't say anything about blade tension. Is it as simple as "provided it stays on the tires and doesn't slip when cutting, you've got the correct tension?" A couple times when I've tried to resaw stuff, even that aspen stump, my blade wants to twist, causing it to wander left or right, right usually. Is that blade tension or just me feeding the wood too quickly?
 
DLJeffs said:
Can anyone offer advice for setting the proper tension on a band saw blade? I've tried to google it and haven't found it anywhere, yet. I've watched that one guy (recommended on here) who is a bandsaw guru explain how he sets up his bandsaw but he doesn't say anything about blade tension. Is it as simple as "provided it stays on the tires and doesn't slip when cutting, you've got the correct tension?" A couple times when I've tried to resaw stuff, even that aspen stump, my blade wants to twist, causing it to wander left or right, right usually. Is that blade tension or just me feeding the wood too quickly?
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Move guides up as high as you can. Tighten until when you can push from side of blade and it on deflects 1/4-1/2 ".
Not one of my saws throws blade if not tensioner.
Last question- my guess is you do not have right blade or it is dull. Pushing too fast can also do that.
If you read enough about blades you learn a lot. A 6-8tpi resawing needs a very slow feed rate, why? If the gullet fills with waste the blade stops cutting, so bottom of cut is not as deep as top. Causes problems. I use 2 styles at this time, exotics a 1.3 tpi carbide tipped . Or I use a 3tpi. Both have plenty of gullet to cut straight.
Before the carbide I used a 6 tpi on hard stuff. If you use 3 tpi carbon on coco or harder you really have to watch feed rate. The big hooked blade has a tendency to self feed when pushe too hard which equates to scary chatter..
My guess. First you have dull blades. 2nd wrong blade. Doomed with either.
Get a 3 tpi. Carbon steel. Feed rate comes with experience but let the blade cut, do not force if you want clean straight cut.
My observation- most people try to get 50 miles out of a 10 mile blade and blame it on saw, guides or?? When really they are trying to save money while degrading cut, thus loosing time and wood = $$$$
 
And ps. Lots of folks think more teeth finer cut. Not true. My 1.3 x1.25 carbide and my 3 tpi leave a great finish. People ask how I do that. Right blade- sharp blade+ feed rate = nice cut. Anything short of that = crap cut.
 
I saw somewhere that open both doors, and look at how the blade is reacting on the area between the wheels on the left side. If they are running without any wobble, then your tension is correct. I had not known that from the time I got the saw in '78 until 2020. Never really had any problems until I started cutting large thick blocks for woodturning. The blade gullet should be centered on the top tire. That's it. Know no more. ........... Nubs
 
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