70 Qt or 70 Pint? I didn't see the Quart one on Walmart and I'm surprised a 70 Pint model would provide enough heat.
Kiln number 2
- Thread starter Mike1950
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Yea, they have 70 pint models. They don't hold that (8.75 gallons) but can pull that much a day. At least I think that was how they used to advertise them...
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- #24
They are pints. I have no idea what they hold. I run line thru side and drain into gravel.
Just surprised a residential unit (I have a 50 pt in my basement for comparison) can generate enough heat to heat such a big enclosure.
I'm working on making a much smaller kiln (3'x3'x10') that will be serviced by a 25 pt dehumidifier. I'm guessing I'll need a way to introduce outside air if the inside gets too warm?
I'm working on making a much smaller kiln (3'x3'x10') that will be serviced by a 25 pt dehumidifier. I'm guessing I'll need a way to introduce outside air if the inside gets too warm?
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- #26
This box will be 7x7x10=490 cubic ft last box was 5x6x12-360 cubic ft This will be better insulated. Face 12x6 of kiln 1 were 1/2 plywood with 1" foam screwed on. in the beginning it was sorta sealed, in the end, it had taken a beating from miss steps with tractor. I was still venting in October-Nov. and in spring. I do not use in summer. I would need an AC unit.
I like to keep green burl in the 80-90 degree range for the first 2 weeks. after that 100-110 is ok.
I assume with tighter box-more insulation, smaller door area and much better sealing and insulated doors that the 75 will need venting. the 50 did.
If your box -90 cubic feet is insulated and sealed I would assume you will definitely need a vent.
I have only had the one kiln. but learned a lot using it.
1. there is a LOT of water in fresh cut wood.
2. if you keep temps low enough in beginning it is very hard to screw things up.
3. Just because water stops coming out does not mean dehumidifier is dead. Usually it means wood is dry. This lesson is why I have 2 working dehumidifiers.
4. I have used kiln for other things but most of my experience is with burl. Mostly maple burl but also box elder burl. I think burl is a much different animal than regular lumber.
5. also have to remember, I have read up on kilns and drying cycles, Etc. I go by none of this. I operate on what works for me nothing else. Why fix what is not broke.
Took me about 5-6 weeks to dry maple burl in last kiln. this one will have 2 sets of rollers on floor and the burl will be 2 stacks high-rolled in and another 2 stacks will go in. so I probably will have 1/3 + more burl in there. I expect results to be about the same. We will see.
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- #27
Have my wire underground now and almost have both doors done. Heavy duty ball bearing hinges, saddle joints at corners and plenty of screws. So far very solid and swings very easy. Will get other done and on today. Hopefully primed. Spray insulation pack is on its way. Getting closer.
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- #28
One step closer.
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- #30
Done some reading and have quite a bit of experience with the canned closed cell from work. it is messy. will be covered with proper respirator. also will close up and heat up but will open to air when I spray. then close back up. only doing the doors and cavity next to doors.
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- #31
Just read all the instructions and warnings.
Pretty cool tips. They change to blue if too cold.. hope temperature does not make issues for me. We will find out.
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- #32
Sprayed today. Used tyvek suit nitrile gloves safety glasses and 3M 6100 respirator. Very easy. Dries fast. I was thinking this stuff does not smell at all until I stuck my head in there to look for my glasses. Yikes. It smells. Will let it out gas until smell goes away then pictures. Wiring is done. Door seals figured out. Very close to installing rollers and test.
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- #33
Ps. 70 degrees today. 1/2 hour in suit and I was soaking wet.
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- #34
Not perfect but will work.
